Roll Cage Welding Question

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I started the cutting, notching, fabbing and welding on my new full cage. I have about 75% of it tached up. My question is, even though I have put a couple tacks at each joint, how do I properly do the full welds without it drawing and getting tweeked. Instead of doing complete welds at each joint should I look at it like torqueing a head? Go in a pattern and just weld part way around each joint? Or, as long as my tacks hold just weld it and not worry? It has taken a lot of time to make the fit right and I don't want to screw it up.
What say you?
 
You and Clint are in the same boat on this one.
 
It shouldnt move at all, as long you have a few opposing tacs at each joint. Even if you plan to remove the cage for the finish welds.

BTW I am finishing up a BITCHIN cage on an FJ43 right now.
 
It shouldnt move at all, as long you have a few opposing tacs at each joint. Even if you plan to remove the cage for the finish welds.

BTW I am finishing up a BITCHIN cage on an FJ43 right now.

My plan is to have 4 frame tie in points and make it removeable so I can make better finish welds while it is sitting on the floor then have it powder coated before I install it.
Thanks John
 
Carl and I just finished welding up my new cage. He bolted the cage in temporarily while he welded all of the joints. With solid tacks I have had luck with the steel not moving, but other times I have had major shifting. Today we are working on my frame ties ins.
 
Carl and I just finished welding up my new cage. He bolted the cage in temporarily while he welded all of the joints. With solid tacks I have had luck with the steel not moving, but other times I have had major shifting. Today we are working on my frame ties ins.

I think I might try the bolting, weld as much as possible, pull it, then finish the welds.
Thanks Clint
 
maybe let it sit bolted in for awhile so the wlds can cool down. then take it out and finish it.
 
maybe let it sit bolted in for awhile so the wlds can cool down. then take it out and finish it.

Hi Jim & thanks.........do to my lack of speed I will probably do that with out even trying, I still consider myself a slow and fussy green horn.:)
 
I ended up hitting each joint with 4 good tacks while leaving the cage in the rig. Then put it on the floor and welded about half of each joint and jumped around, corner to corner, side to side etc. then went back and finished doing the same. Then let it cool, put it back in the rig and it fit perfect, no movement. I just dropped it off at the powder coater. I will just rattle can the frame tie in's.
I few more odds and ends and I'll be ready for The Mini UA!!! Looking forward to it!!
 
hey! were are the pics of this jungle gym.....I wanna see.
 
Yeah, Tom. No pics = didn't happen, right.
 
Funny you should ask because my wife came up to the barn last night to check out the cage and asked if I took any pics. I looked at her with a "why" look, cuz I didn't think of it. So I snapped 2 shots last night before it was completed, missing 2 tubes. I'll post'm later.
I'm real happy with how it came out.
If anybody is considering a MetalTech cage, here is the deal. Me, not knowing much about cages, was expecting to line everything up and weld it. Not the case. After getting started I realized that most of the time in this is in the cutting, notching and grinding to make a perfect fit. You could easily buy a $500 to $800 kit and totally "F" it up before you are even close to being done. I started on the back half, tacked it up. Went to the front and got better with my fabbing the fit and tacked that up. After the front tacking I realized I could have done better on the back and took it compleley apart and re-did it for a better fit and look....i wasn't happy with the back hoop, now I am. Anyway, I'm glad I took my time on the fabbing, it came out well. If I had to do another one right now I'm sure I could do it in half the time.
I can really appreciate the skilzzz that Jon has for this. Too bad I'm the Lone LC Ranger in my area. You guys in Indy and Chi-Town should appreciate all the Yota support you have.
 
You said a mouthful Tom. My current cage project is my 2nd cage so I knew what I was in for, but I did forget what a PITA it really is. I couldn't have done my current design without Carl's help but I still have a lot of sweat equity in it. I keep telling myself that it will be worth it in the end.

I am taking tomorrow off from work to get the cage finished up, so I will have some pics soon. Carl and I designed something a little different, and I think the end result will be awesome. I am just ready to have it done with already!

Clint
 
You said a mouthful Tom. My current cage project is my 2nd cage so I knew what I was in for, but I did forget what a PITA it really is. I couldn't have done my current design without Carl's help but I still have a lot of sweat equity in it. I keep telling myself that it will be worth it in the end.

I am taking tomorrow off from work to get the cage finished up, so I will have some pics soon. Carl and I designed something a little different, and I think the end result will be awesome. I am just ready to have it done with already!

Clint

Yeah what the hell....no pics from you either? Man I showed mine.....
 
Yeah what the hell....no pics from you either? Man I showed mine.....

Yea but you are a pro, can't speak for Clint but I'm a novice!:flipoff2:

Ok, here is most of it. Just tacked up. Missing 2 over head tubes that would run back from above the rear view mirror, old man handles by the dash and 4 seat belt tabs. There are 4 frame tie in points I haven't touched yet. I'm also hoping to have time before the UA to make a sturdy drop tailgate, we'll see.
One thing I need to figure out eventually, after the Mini UA, is where and how to put rear seats back in. The stocks won't return where they came out. Maybe go with a bench or fab the side seats back in some how. As always, open to suggestions on that.

40 Roll Cage 001.jpg
40 Roll Cage 001.jpg
 

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