Rhino Rack Pioneer platform installed. (1 Viewer)

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jlm43

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I finally got around to ordering a 76” x 54” Pioneer platform just before they shut down for the covid-19 fiasco. Overall, I’m super pleased with the setup and I’d definitely go the same route if I was to do it again.

I thought I had some issues with the feet and Rhino Rack customer service has been great with getting it sorted. Turns out the it isn’t really an issue, just that the feet don’t fit into the base fit kit quite like I would hope.

I wanted the rack to be as close to the truck as possible so I went with the RCL feet which is 15mm lower than the recommended RCH feet. If it ends up being to close to the truck, I can remove the required 5mm spacers and install some thicker ones as they make 5mm, 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, and 25mm spacers.

I also got some of the 1220mm c-channel for mounting up the Thule ski box. I’m hoping that it will work with a Yakima Sky Rise RTT but that’s yet to be seen. While not in use, the channels are mounted on the outer edges and create a “flush mounted roof rail” so to speak. Swapping the channels to run left to right takes all of 5 minutes.

I didn’t want to remove the spoiler so I measured out the spacing and drilled new mounting holes in the platform. With the rear hatch open, I have an inch or two of clearance between the spoiler and the rack.

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what size platform are you using?
 
Here is how the feet mount with out the platform. There’s a gap that I wasn’t impressed with but it does allow for the rack to be positioned easier. I’ve made sure the seal everything up so hopefully I don’t get any leaks.

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Be sure to use PLENTY of sealant around and IN all the bolt holes. I have the pioneer rack. I'd had my truck "stored" for a while with a cover on it. We'd had a bunch of rain and I when I checked on it, everything organic was covered in mildew. I spent the next 9 hours scrubbing, cleaning etc. It took a long time to get it all completely clean. It was either the sunroof, or the roof rack. I removed the whole Rhino Rack/Pioneer platform and then removed the base feet. I then juiced the crap out of a whole tube of sealant, LOL. I don't remember what product I used, but it was automotive/marine grade. I've not had a problem since.
 
I wasn’t a fan of the gap in front of the forward mounting point so I made some aluminum strips, roughly 1” x 17” and put some thin wall heat shrink around them. I slid the strips under the windshield rain gutter and the RR foot. It’s also held in place with some adhesive.

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what size platform are you using?

He advised: 76” x 54”. I'm waiting for my RCP02-BK Base Kit to arrive for my 56"x 84" Pioneer Platform installation.
 
Minor update and shameless sales pitch.

One of the benefits, for me anyway, of the RR setup is that I can pull the platform off and put on the 3 Vortex bars in about 15 minutes.

For the summer, the platform has proven to be more useful than expected. It’s super easy to throw stuff up there with some of the eye bolts that slide in the slots.

For winter, I’ve been running the 3 bar setup. I have some thule ski carriers on the bars and there’s enough room to put the Thule ski box as well when needed. These will come off in 5 minutes so it makes running through the car wash a bit easier.
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Lastly, I purchased another 76”x54” platform to put in the wife’s GX but she’s not a fan. It’s all assembled with 6 feet but will need a fit kit for whichever vehicle it will go on. It’s up for grabs here.
 
Added a Pioneer platform on the backbone system this week. Taking the factory rack off my 2000 was made difficult by the fact that I was following Rhino Rack’s directions for removal instead of the thread on Mud. I had the center feet without the flip out panel, so I dinged them up a bit trying to open and expose the mounting bolts. Finished destroying the factory center feet when I found they had been holding water and the bolts were rusted away. Had to cut the plastic and use vise grips to turn the bolts as others have.

As far as the install goes, my only advice would be to keep the center cam lock bolts as loose as possible when setting the rack on the backbone. VERY little clearance underneath, and it takes some contortion to get the center mounts engaged and tightened down. A ratcheting wrench is your friend, not even enough clearance for a socket.

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And now that it’s successfully installed, I’ve got a factory rack (sans center feet) available if anyone in New England needs one.

Also, I ended up with a second rack from Amazon when the first arrived late and missing parts. I ordered everything missing from Rhino Rack, so if anyone wants a good deal on a new platform (no backbone), check the classsifieds for my listing.
 
Added a Pioneer platform on the backbone system this week. Taking the factory rack off my 2000 was made difficult by the fact that I was following Rhino Rack’s directions for removal instead of the thread on Mud. I had the center feet without the flip out panel, so I dinged them up a bit trying to open and expose the mounting bolts. Finished destroying the factory center feet when I found they had been holding water and the bolts were rusted away. Had to cut the plastic and use vise grips to turn the bolts as others have.

As far as the install goes, my only advice would be to keep the center cam lock bolts as loose as possible when setting the rack on the backbone. VERY little clearance underneath, and it takes some contortion to get the center mounts engaged and tightened down. A ratcheting wrench is your friend, not even enough clearance for a socket.

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And now that it’s successfully installed, I’ve got a factory rack (sans center feet) available if anyone in New England needs one.

Also, I ended up with a second rack from Amazon when the first arrived late and missing parts. I ordered everything missing from Rhino Rack, so if anyone wants a good deal on a new platform (no backbone), check the classsifieds for my listing.
Did you have a tough time bolting down the backbone part of the install? For me it seemed like the tolerance was very tight and made getting to some of the bolts difficult to tighten.
 
Did you have a tough time bolting down the backbone part of the install? For me it seemed like the tolerance was very tight and made getting to some of the bolts difficult to tighten.

Yeah, between the inward angle of the backbone and the size of the button-head bolts it took a bit. I was able to get them started with the sides tilted outward, and then if I only tightened each bolt a few turns at a time it seemed to get the heads past the conflict point without hanging up.
 
Added a Pioneer platform on the backbone system this week. Taking the factory rack off my 2000 was made difficult by the fact that I was following Rhino Rack’s directions for removal instead of the thread on Mud. I had the center feet without the flip out panel, so I dinged them up a bit trying to open and expose the mounting bolts. Finished destroying the factory center feet when I found they had been holding water and the bolts were rusted away. Had to cut the plastic and use vise grips to turn the bolts as others have.

As far as the install goes, my only advice would be to keep the center cam lock bolts as loose as possible when setting the rack on the backbone. VERY little clearance underneath, and it takes some contortion to get the center mounts engaged and tightened down. A ratcheting wrench is your friend, not even enough clearance for a socket.

And now that it’s successfully installed, I’ve got a factory rack (sans center feet) available if anyone in New England needs one.

Also, I ended up with a second rack from Amazon when the first arrived late and missing parts. I ordered everything missing from Rhino Rack, so if anyone wants a good deal on a new platform (no backbone), check the classsifieds for my listing.
Nice looking install!

After having the Rhino Rack setups for around a year, I'm still super happy with the versatility of the setup. RR using standard hardware for almost all of their stuff. If you're running the Pioneer platform, or the Vortex bars, standard 1-5/8" strut channel nuts fit perfectly in the slots. I've made, or modified, a few accessories to fit using the strut channel nuts. The Thule ski holders in my previous post are one example. Here's a link to the nuts on McMaster Carr if anyone is interested. It's cheaper to get the spring loaded version then just pull the springs off with pliers.

 
Sow how in the heck did these guys use the factory forth mounting spot for the feet and cross bar?

I have tried to email them and they don’t have a clue.

Im currently in an email convo with Rhino Rack Tech Support to see how.
I’m thinking maybe they opened up the holes a little on the inside of that front foot.

I also asked if they were going to update the Backbone to capture all four locations like they did with the 200 series. No response yet.

 
Sow how in the heck did these guys use the factory forth mounting spot for the feet and cross bar?

I have tried to email them and they don’t have a clue.

Im currently in an email convo with Rhino Rack Tech Support to see how.
I’m thinking maybe they opened up the holes a little on the inside of that front foot.

I also asked if they were going to update the Backbone to capture all four locations like they did with the 200 series. No response yet.


Not sure I understand your question. There are three mounting points in the video, not 4. I installed the backbone and was completely confused for a few hours until I realized that the side cover/drip tray can be removed. That showed the 3rd mounting point for me, but I think the key is to remove that trim that spans the length of your roof on each side. I recall I had to place some bolts on the forward most mounts and ordered covers from Toyota to cover the rectangle.
 
Look closely at the front mounting points,
They are different, The green LC used the factory North American front set where the factory rack was mounted.

The OPs used the hidden set under the moulding. I don’t want to cut up my factory moulding when there are bolt holes right there and would offer more support for a longer rack anyways.

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