Retro fit Locking Diff to Non Locked Housing (1 Viewer)

[Rookie2]

Rgmax:

Thanks for the write-up. Very helpful.

Can you post some pics of the notching you had to do?

So if I read you correctly, the PS rear axle shaft was the only one you had to swap out? Other side was good to go using the non-locker axle shaft?

Could a rear locker only be added without creating a bunch of bugs with the ECU?

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[cruiserdan]

The RH rear shaft has longer splines for the dog clutch. The LH shaft is re-used. It is no problen at all to run just the rear, I did that for well over a year before I got around to doing the front. In that case you could use the rotary switch out of a 98 100 series as it is a rear-only switch that fits in the same hole and uses the same connector.

 

[sleeoffroad]

One of the easiest ways to determine the locations of the notching etc is to buy the locker gasket and then use that as a template. I would not do it for the hole locations for the studs, but it helps you to get the housing notched to accept the diff. Then install the diff and use a transferpunch to locate the holes. Weld up the area where you need more material and grid/sand it flat.

 

[rgmax]

Yes, only the rear RH axle was replaced. I also did as Christo suggested and used the gaskets as templates for where to notch.

I planned to document the whole procedure with photos, etc. but ended up only getting part of the install in detail. I will look for any photos worth posting.

 

[Rookie2]

One thing I'm not clear on is needing to fab a floor wiring harness to run from the left rear quarter panel harness to the front. Can this not be scarfed off a donor vehicle? Guess it's time to get an EWD.

Thanks
Rookie2

 

[cruiserdan]

One thing I'm not clear on is needing to fab a floor wiring harness to run from the left rear quarter panel harness to the front. Can this not be scarfed off a donor vehicle? Guess it's time to get an EWD.

Thanks
Rookie2

Of course it could. Do not mis-understand, it is not necessary to build a "complete" harness, only the 5 wires that are missing from the non-lock floor harness. Based on how deeply the floor harness is integrated into the vehicle, it would likely be easier to just build the lock harness to lay over the top of the existing floor harness. That is the course I chose. My retro-fit has performed flawlessly for over 4 years. I live on a graded road that is a touch over 1/2 mile long. I lock the diffs at least twice a week on my way home.

 

[Rookie2]

Thanks Dan.

Anyone care to give a ballpark of what to expect to pay for a rear diff., PS rear axle shaft, locker ECU, and rear locker wiring harness, from a salvage yard.

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[rgmax]

You can get a idea on the cost of the entire axle assemblies or just the parts you need by searching www.car-parts.com

 

[Junk]

Bear, Cdan etc:

I'm tagging this as a FAQ, so if you could please add as many pics to this thread as possible, it will help quite a few.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Can you post some pics of the notching you had to do?

Here is a pic of my notch that worked great! As Christo suggested, i used the gasket as a template!

 

[JerseyCruiser]

Just finished my rear locker retrofit with no problems. Thanks to Dan for all the help getting me the connectors to mate up with my home made wiring harness and the factory locker harness. If you are going to use the factory harness with the ABS connections that goes from the actuator up to fender you cannot buy a separate six wire female connector to mate with it. You need to pull all six male pins out and insert them into one four (90980-10475) and one two (90980-10495) pin connector. The female connectors are: for the four (90980-10476) and the two (90980-10496) Then you'll need six (82998-1270) which are the female Terminal repair pins to to insert into your two and four pin setup and mate them to the five wires you run up to the kick panel. You will need five male (82998-12330) terminal repair pins to plug into the ID1 connector at the dash to splice into your home made wiring harness.


G

 

[fl4031003]

LX Locker Wiring

About to install a rear locker in my LX had some questions
1 - I thought I read that the LX already has the locker harness running to the LR corner - is this correct?
2 - need to lock it before I remove the third, which wires do I "jump"
3 - See picture - I removed the entire rear harness from the donor rig, I kept the pig tails too. I did not see what the little black hose looking thing at bottom of picture went to when I cut it - anyone kbow?

 

[70sguy]

Rear window washer

 

[8KCABDriver]

That looks like the vent tube that connects to the rear locker actuator and terminates where the axle harness plugs into the left rear quarter panel.

 

[fl4031003]

Rear washer?

I do not know why the washer hose would go to the rear diff? not sure what it is. I am guessing that the 5 wire plug in the picture is the same 5 wires that I am hopping has a plug waiting for it in the LX. anyone know?

 

[fl4031003]

8kcabdriver

thanks that's what it looks like,does it just fit into the body grommet and vent to the cabin? Does it hook to something?

 

[fl4031003]

5 wire harness

In the above picture I show a 5 wire plug,is this the one that should be Prewired inLX models? If so then both plugs in the picture should have mates waiting for them Correct? Any LX experts?

 

[fl4031003]

Still looking for answers

Can someone please help with my questions above?

 

[Bear80]

Order a factory electric wiring diagram. It will answer all your questions and make for a valuable resource. The first order of business for any serious 'wrenching owner for any type of vehicle would be the factory service books.

 

[fl4031003]

FSM

I have one for a LC not sure if color codes are the same for an LX and FSM will not teil me if the LX is Prewired