Does anyone have a process to install the new rubber between drip rail and top of sides? The old did not look glued and came right off but new rubber is very soft and wants to move around. Thanks.
Replacing weather strip between bottom of roof and sides of FJ40
- Thread starter Dennis 1970 40
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You just gotta be quick lol.
I've also had good luck taping the edges and using an adhesive like @rkymtnflyfisher
I've also had good luck taping the edges and using an adhesive like @rkymtnflyfisher
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I did this to my 1970 FJ40. Bought it in 2011. Original owner had a shop in the small town he lived in replaced the headliner. Obvious they removed the cap leaving the door headers still attached. Original owner didn't bother to have new weatherstripping installed. Original weatherstripping was cracked and in pieces. 40 lived under a carport before I bought it. Since then in a insulated garage. In 2022 I finally replaced it. Found some tape which not sure was from the factory or the shop that replaced the headliner. For the little tape there was and the multiple pieces I'm guessing the tape was from the factory.
I really don't remember having any issues installing the weatherstripping by myself. I had the weatherstripping over the weather in place first. Then just started at the back then moved forward also the side. Once it was about two feet on each side started the bolt across the back. That stabilized the back from there just moved forward. Once at the front installed the small piece. Then loosely started all bolts. Had to drill a hole for the second bolt for the room light. The original weatherstripping back to 1970 is NLA. If are having a problem a few wire ties in the bolt holes would keep it in place. Once the bolts in hole without wire ties are just stared cut the wire ties and remove before tightening. String or fish line would work.
I really don't remember having any issues installing the weatherstripping by myself. I had the weatherstripping over the weather in place first. Then just started at the back then moved forward also the side. Once it was about two feet on each side started the bolt across the back. That stabilized the back from there just moved forward. Once at the front installed the small piece. Then loosely started all bolts. Had to drill a hole for the second bolt for the room light. The original weatherstripping back to 1970 is NLA. If are having a problem a few wire ties in the bolt holes would keep it in place. Once the bolts in hole without wire ties are just stared cut the wire ties and remove before tightening. String or fish line would work.
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- #5
I have the same brownish tape remains on top of window panels and across back to hold seal in place. I cleaned off the release agent from the new rubber. Now the thin double back tape sticks well. I should be able to install Friday. Car shows on Saturday and Sunday.
FYI there was a Jeep "4 X 4" car show locally. I was not allowed to bring my FJ40. So I parked in parking lot. After about 30 minutes there were about 50 people around my FJ40. It was a lot of fun.
FYI there was a Jeep "4 X 4" car show locally. I was not allowed to bring my FJ40. So I parked in parking lot. After about 30 minutes there were about 50 people around my FJ40. It was a lot of fun.
Make sure your rear hatch remains square & centered in its opening as you re-install the roof. Things can shift around with the roof off, resulting in hatch misalignment along its sides...
My process with an OEM rubber gasket: I let the rubber gasket bask in the sun to get nice and pliable. Once it was warm, put it in place, then the roof. Starting in the rear center, just work your way to the front with the bolts, but don't tighten them just yet. You may have to massage the gasket a bit, but it will go. Once all the bolts are in, go back and torque them up. For the front exterior corners where the gasket ends, I used gray Mortite weatherstrip & caulking to fill the small gap.