Replacing Mark Levinson amp: what do I need to know?

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I haven't done any continuity checks to make sure, but it looks like my ML amp has given up the ghost. Instead of repairing it, I'd like to know if there are any weird things about the amp or the rest of the system that would prevent me from just throwing in a new aftermarket amp. I know that the amp passes power through to the head unit, and I know that the speakers are all 2ohms.

Can I just throw any old 5-channel (or 4 channel if I don't hook up the sub) under the seat, wire the original 12v straight to the head unit, and run a new power cable to the amp? Sub turnon signal? Really weird wiring voodoo?
 
I think the wiring will be a bit more onerous but I emphasize 'think.' it may not be that daunting.

the amp you use to replace it will likely overpower the wiring, if it is a true upgrade. Be ready to run some new wiring.


That being said, it's a hugely beneficial upgrade. The stock amps are lame.
 
I just went through this mark levinson knothole. I replaced everything. Head unit, amp, now powered sub, and all around speakers. I am extremely happy with the end result. Shoot me a PM if you need wiring instructions.
 
I decided to just throw a new head unit in instead of trying to make a mix of stock and aftermarket work. I'm having trouble getting 12v to the head unit though. My wiring list says that the 12v stuff I need to tie together from the original amp's wiring is blue with a yellow stripe. I have three of them at the amp connectors and one at the head unit connector, but no 12v on any of them.
 
I just went through this mark levinson knothole. I replaced everything. Head unit, amp, now powered sub, and all around speakers. I am extremely happy with the end result. Shoot me a PM if you need wiring instructions.

Do you mind elaborating what you replaced with? What year is your LC/LX?
 
Here is a write up a placed on another thread. Let me know if you want more info:
"Preface: Sorry about the length of this write up. Typos too :)

I bought an obscenely overpriced piece of trim plastic from Beatsonic. There are not many options to make the install look Lexus factory clean.

Believe it or not, this was the most expensive piece of the upgrade. (i'm still a little bitter, if you can't tell) Everything else was off the clearance rack at Best Buy (i found you can get some amazing deals even off the clearance prices if you just ask the manager nicely. As much as 75% off the sale)

I bought a touchscreen Pioneer AVH-X3600BHS head unit because it would allow me to 1) Play HD radio 2) subscribe and play Sirius (if i weren't so cheap) 3) Play music CDs and movie DVDs 4) hook up a classic IPOD via USB for GBs of music when i was parked on the beaches of Rocky Point Mexico with no radio reception 5) allow me to use either my aux or blue tooth to stream music from my Android + Intel Atom based (yea, i work for Intel) :) Asus Zen Phone II 6) stream Pandora from phone with full media metadata info 7) run a back up camera on the back up camera input 8) run a front bumper camera on the video aux input for rock climbing 9) full hands free phone and 10) pump pre amped analog through 5 discrete channels to my down stream amp.

I simply spliced into the factory multi disc/cassette wiring harness. I did not have a factory nav. All kids of IH8MUD posts on harness wiring.

I unbolted and removed the passenger seat so i could have room to work.

I removed the factory amp and replaced it with the tiny footprint four channel Kenwood KAC-M3004 amp. I LOVE THIS AMP! Taking from the factory Mark Levinson amp, I followed the speaker wiring diagrams that i found on the IH8MUD posts. Had to use the 1.5V battery trick a few times to make sure I knew which was which front/back/right/left/read, as well as which wires were positive and negative. I ran the front door mids and tweets straight off the Pioneer deck. I ran the front and rear main speakers as well as the 3rd row seat single speaker off the amp as described in my previous post. I ran the kenwood amp with HPF on and cut out the bass at about 100Hz (idiot switches and dials on the amp. Could not be any easier)

I replaced the front 6.5" factory speakers with Polk Audio using the factory mounting speaker basket (slight mods in the way of snipping bits of plastic to make the new speakers fit). I replaced the rear 4" factory speakers with Kicker 6x9s. I had to by a 6x9 speaker spacers to make them fit. In hindsight, i should have used 5x8 speakers. I would have still needed the rings, but they would have fit a touch better.

I removed the door panels and on the door metal itself, I matted all four doors with sound deaden'er. I used reasonably priced self adhesive roofing tar paper material from Lowe's as opposed expensive dyno mat.

You might need to do a forum search on how to remove the door panels. Don't let the instructions intimidate you. Sounds complicated but once you get the touch, you can get VERY GOOD at removing the door panels in no time at all. First one took me 15min. After a few weekends of fine tuning my install, i could get one off in less than 3min.

I replaced the 3rd row sub with a single Alpine 6.5" R series i had sitting around. Sounds great! I ran a switch to that speaker as my youngest daughter like to sit in the 3rd row and when she wants to read on road trips, i can turn off that speaker only by a flick of a switch that i put upfront just left of the steering wheel. I also ran an extra speaker wire from the amp so i could put "beach speaker" on the roof of my truck. When doing this, i have to turn off the rear 6.5" Alpine speaker as leaving it on + the roof speaker would put too much of a load on the amp. (see pic) I can explain more if desired.

From the head unit to under the passenger seat, i ran 5 RCA audio cables (front R, front L, rear R, rear L, and sub). I also ran 2 video RCAs for the front and rear cameras. I also ran the amp trigger line. I used the factory amp power (hot) and ground wires for the Kenwood replacement amp. The front R, front L, rear R, and rear L audio RCAs went into the Kenwood amp. The single sub RCA went into a kenwood KSC-SW11 8" self enclosed/amped sub. I tapped into the power, remote trigger, and ground that i used for the other amp.

I played with a bunch of audio level adjustments at the head unit, at the 4 channel amp, and at the sub. Then i bolted the passenger seat back in and called it a wrap. When i was all said and done, i think i spent about $350, not counting that damn Beatsonic part!

Now i'm happy with the audio/video capabilities of my 15yo, lifted and modestly modified, LX470. Look and listen for me if you find yourself down in Rocky Point on select holiday weekends:)

Shout if you want to know more."
 
I installed a Memphis Audio Special use amp and base amp into my UZJ100 and bought a 10" Kicker in freestanding wedge box. Also running a Clarion EQ. My LC has the integrated Nav/Climate PIA unit so the EQ allowed me to balance FBLR channels. Best Buy's install shop sold me 9-wire cable that greatly eased need to run separate wire from from to back though I did need to run heavy gauge power wire back to both Amps. To do this without the Nav would have been my pref but I'd have to buy a full manual Climate Control controller... Mounted amps to a plastic board temporarily in rear but I will be customizing left rear quarter trim interior panel soon.
 
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