Does anyone have tips on replacing dash cap in a FJ60? (Imine's a '87). I read somewhere that the factory dash caps are glued down. Not sure if that's accurate. But I don't want to get into it if the job really isn't meant for a DIYer.
Replacing dash cap in FJ60? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bookman32
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Yotajeff
SILVER Star
Super easy just spot tack glue on various corners and center base of the dash and snap the cap in place.
If you have a factory dash you are not replacing but installing the cap over the existing dash. If there are large cracks or warps you should smooth them out so the cap will lay flat.
if some one else already installed a cap you should remove it before installing a new one.
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
@MoaByte thanks, that was my question. How much timming of the high spots. I'm guessing anywhere it sticks up beyond the original amount it should be trimmed. That includes ane areas along the windshield edge where it has puffed up.
Any suggestions on trimming? Remove the whole thing first? Seems like you could make a huge mess trimming and sanding it while it's in place.
Any suggestions on trimming? Remove the whole thing first? Seems like you could make a huge mess trimming and sanding it while it's in place.
I haven't done it yet. My dash has geologic like features: canyons, anticlines, even what resembles a thrust plate. My tentative plan is to V cut the high spots along the fissures, might add some glue and a little silicone caulk to the voids. I intend to avoid sanding if at all possible. I think it will be done in place. I wiped it down with some 303 protectent and that's when I remembered that it only had one crack before I applied Armor All. A few months later it had several. Never using Armor All again.
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
No sir, I don’t use armor all either. I prefer 303 as well.
I definitely have some geologic formation where the dash speaker was, but what could be the messiest to deal with it the raised ridge running the entire width of the dash, along the windshield side. I’m thinking the easiest way to bring that down level with the rest is to take the whole dash out and work on it that way.
I also have a little hump above the left side of the gauges.
I guess I can try and fit it as-is and see how it goes. Knowing me I’ll get really picky and end up spending 10x more time on it than I should have
If it was made of wood it would be more fun. Please share your trials as the dash is new territory for many of us.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
This was the worst dash I have seen to date. I cut out all the crap to the steel, filled with quality body filler, sanded it all out, glasses it all, sanded, sprayed with SEM texture and painted.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
The original dash looks like a Halloween decoration. Jeez. Fantastic work! I wish I had the time/space/tools to do that. It is food for thought. How many hours would you say it took to do it?
FYI I got a quote from justdashes recently and they’re about $1,500 to restore the dash.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I'd have to go back and look at records to figure how much total time I have in it. A good bit for sure. I looked at JustDashes too. Something about paying someone else $1,500.00 that I know I can do myself just bugs me. Job in my shop, I do the work as much as possible. Down side is, if something goes wrong I know who to blame 
It is really not that hard to do, just basic body work and fiberglass, shoot some SEM texture on it (practice on something first, something 3D and not just flat. Then paint your color of choice. I use SEM color as well. Don't glass in where the AC vents fit in. They are very tight. Good time to do something with the speaker holes on top and the single DIN radio slot if you have moved your radio.
NIKE! Just do it!
It is really not that hard to do, just basic body work and fiberglass, shoot some SEM texture on it (practice on something first, something 3D and not just flat. Then paint your color of choice. I use SEM color as well. Don't glass in where the AC vents fit in. They are very tight. Good time to do something with the speaker holes on top and the single DIN radio slot if you have moved your radio.
NIKE! Just do it!
@NCFJ that is awesome work! I am totally new to the car work but I did restore a fiberglass boat once. Can you give me some specifics on the type of filler used, fiberglass cloth, and any other detail that could be useful on the prep and process? Mine is beat to hell and could use a Hail Mary from me.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I used 3M lite automotive filler, available at most places that sell body repair supplies and paint. Regular weave fiberglass cloth. I use west Systems epoxy with great results. Just remove any loose material from the dash first and epoxy down the edges where required before using any filler. Remove all dust and wipe down with a grease and wax remover before using the filler then again before the glass.
This seems like a great winter project. Also did you fiberglass over the speaker holes in the top? Looks clean. Thanks
Scro
SILVER Star
Check YouTube, lots of informative vids.
cps432
SILVER Star
I like to use kwick kick surfboard epoxy. It’s a newer formula. It’s smells less than west systems and is sandable in about 2-3 hours. It wets out easier and depending on which formula and fabric you use, self levels better. And it’s cheaper by a lot. And it’s harder. If you’re using it for a top coat it has uv protectors in it. And it has a slight blue tint to it that appears crystal clear when dried but makes colors pop more.
KWIK KICK EPOXY | classic-layout
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If you work with epoxy a lot, this is worth looking into.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Thank you for the lead, I will give it a try. I have used West Systems for years but more than willing to try another product. West System is very proud of their product, reflected in the price.
