Replaced front pinion seal today
- Thread starter Kernal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2013
- Threads
- 236
- Messages
- 2,148
Thanks for sharing that update. That is very helpful.
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2013
- Threads
- 236
- Messages
- 2,148
So, I just replaced the front pinion seal in my 80 yesterday, and I just wanted to say thanks to @Kernal for posting up his original post here with photos. His post made the job a lot easier, and was a nice contribution to the forum.
A few tips/observations for those who are going to do this job:
1) You'll want to have the same 30mm socket and 2.5" piece of plastic pipe connection that you used to replace the front main seal on your crankshaft. The retaining nut for the pinion flange is 30mm and the seal is the same size as the front main, so use that 2.5" piece of plastic pipe to gently tap that seal in straight. I found that putting a piece of 2x4 across the plastic pipe opening gives a nice flat spot to whack with a brass hammer and guide the seal in straight.
2) Especially if you tend to find rust on your rig, you might find the flange is tough to pull off. Mine came off by hand, but others might find they need a puller to remove it. The OEM brand puller, model #27139 and labeled Chrysler Harmonic Puller, from AutoZone's free tool loaner program, fit perfectly. Mine came off easily by hand, but I had the tool if needed.
3) Get a couple of crush washers because you'll need to drain the front diff for this job.
4) I returned the original nut to its original position (Kernal torqued his on a bit further). That took a good amount of force, and I didn't feel like putting more force on it to rotate it further. My running gear has always been quiet as can be, and I didn't want to change that. I did buy a new nut, in case I needed it, but I ended up using the old one. I counted the revolutions when I took it off, and it was right at 10. Same when I put it back on, and I staked the nut in the same spot that the factory had upon manufacture.
That's about it. It's a
job, tops. It's more work than replacing your wiper blades, but less work than replacing your valve cover gasket. Just take your time and get that new seal in straight.
A few tips/observations for those who are going to do this job:
1) You'll want to have the same 30mm socket and 2.5" piece of plastic pipe connection that you used to replace the front main seal on your crankshaft. The retaining nut for the pinion flange is 30mm and the seal is the same size as the front main, so use that 2.5" piece of plastic pipe to gently tap that seal in straight. I found that putting a piece of 2x4 across the plastic pipe opening gives a nice flat spot to whack with a brass hammer and guide the seal in straight.
2) Especially if you tend to find rust on your rig, you might find the flange is tough to pull off. Mine came off by hand, but others might find they need a puller to remove it. The OEM brand puller, model #27139 and labeled Chrysler Harmonic Puller, from AutoZone's free tool loaner program, fit perfectly. Mine came off easily by hand, but I had the tool if needed.
3) Get a couple of crush washers because you'll need to drain the front diff for this job.
4) I returned the original nut to its original position (Kernal torqued his on a bit further). That took a good amount of force, and I didn't feel like putting more force on it to rotate it further. My running gear has always been quiet as can be, and I didn't want to change that. I did buy a new nut, in case I needed it, but I ended up using the old one. I counted the revolutions when I took it off, and it was right at 10. Same when I put it back on, and I staked the nut in the same spot that the factory had upon manufacture.
That's about it. It's a
job, tops. It's more work than replacing your wiper blades, but less work than replacing your valve cover gasket. Just take your time and get that new seal in straight.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #24
Good info. I actually went just a tad past the original staked position of the pinion nut, idea was to take up any slack that had developed over 300,000 miles. Not a scientific method, just did it by feel and maybe got lucky as the front diff is still quiet.
Interesting, grease on the splines rather than fipig to keep gear oil leaking out the splines.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 187
- Messages
- 13,298
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
The "correct" way is to drop the third, pull the carrier, push out the pinion, inspect the bearings, install a new crush sleeve and set the preload. This is a significant job, so IMHO, the short cut is worth the risk. If the bearings start talking, will have to do the full job.
Old post and I know he is gone but he is-was 100% correct. Although I do not agree on “worth the risk.” Do it right or don’t do it all is our motto.
Preload is set by crushing the crush sleeve. Any other way you do this and you will not have correct preload and or a bad tooth pattern.
Cheers