Replaced alternator. Still bad or something else? (1 Viewer)

[dranven]

The alternator on my '97 went bad recently. I replaced it with an eBay "reman" Sequioa 150amp with Photoman bracket and small pulley. I put it all together and am seeing charging issues (e.g. the charge light comes on intermittently and the needle is only at around 9v.

I tested the battery with a multimeter and with the vehicle off, the battery is at 12.40. When I start the vehicle, it drops slightly to 12.16, indicating a bad alternator.

Just wondering if perhaps there's something else I should check since I did the 150amp alternator with small pulley, before I yank the alternator and send it back.

Thanks guys!

 

[morganism]

Usually a grounding problem, in the older versions.

But i would check (gently) where the mains go under the main fuse box in the engine compartment. if it is a bottom connector, they are known for getting metal fatigue, and easily break.

 

[flintknapper]

The alternator on my '97 went bad recently. I replaced it with an eBay "reman" Sequioa 150amp with Photoman bracket and small pulley. I put it all together and am seeing charging issues (e.g. the charge light comes on intermittently and the needle is only at around 9v.

I tested the battery with a multimeter and with the vehicle off, the battery is at 12.40. When I start the vehicle, it drops slightly to 12.16, indicating a bad alternator.

Just wondering if perhaps there's something else I should check since I did the 150amp alternator with small pulley, before I yank the alternator and send it back.

Thanks guys!

A battery in 'resting' state a 12.40 volts is the lower side of full charge. Dropping to 12.16 right after starting (is not particularly bad).

But most of all....DON'T check for alternator output at the battery. That reading doesn't mean squat if you have poor connections, resistance though the cable or bad grounds. Don't take alternator output reading any place other than the stud on the alternator itself.

IF you still show a low reading there, have it tested at your local AutoZone/other, they will do it for free.

 

[Sc0-]

Did you use an adapter plug, or did you remove the old plug and install the 150amp plug to match the alternator?

 

[dranven]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies.

I haven't checked the fuse box yet. Not really sure what I'm looking for there. Just looking for any connectors that appear to be old and may need to be replaced?

The battery (brand new, obtained last Saturday) in "resting state" is now reading about 12.1 and drops to 11.9 with the vehicle running. I tested the alternator with the multimeter at the alternator terminal and the negative lead to a ground and it's also reading 11.9.

I drove to my local auto store and they tested the alternator with their fancy tester, but please note they did it by simply hooking it up to the battery. The test came back that the voltage regulator on the alternator appears to be bad. Not sure if it's a valid test based on flintknapper's comments above. They did mention if I pull the alternator out and bring it in, they can do a more accurate test on the bench.

I am using the adapter plug for the 150amp alternator supplied by Photoman.

Thanks.

 

[dranven]

Oh also, I noticed a little bit of wobble with the belts. I tightened them a bit for good measure to see if maybe that would help. It did not and only made my belts now squeal when I turn on the a/c.

 

[dranven]

Update: I drove a few miles today and toward the end of the drive I started losing power, the ABS light came on, and the charge needle dropped to about 4. I turned off the a/c and immediately regained power.

I guess I'm going to pull the alternator today if I can find another one locally and see if that resolves it, unless anyone has any other suggestions for me.

 

[Tools R Us]

I prefer Denso brand reman, but have never sourced one for the "upgrade".

 

[dranven]

I pulled the alternator out and noticed this:

This is the adapter that plugs into the back of the Sequoia alternator and connects to the Land Cruiser alternator connector. I don't know if it was like that the whole time or if it came out while removing the alternator, but there really wasn't any yanking on this connector, so I have to think it wasn't properly connected.

I took the alternator down to the local auto store to have it tested and it failed. For good measure (since I can see a problem with this adapter), I took it to another auto store and had them test it. It failed again.

I'll be attempting to recrimp the wire into this adapter and will purchase another alternator tomorrow and put it back together. Hopefully I'll be good to go. I'm supposed to do some wheeling in Northern AZ Saturday so getting it buttoned up by Friday night is the goal.

 

[flintknapper]

"Adapters" (for electrical) are best avoided wherever possible. Take the time to splice the new connector to the old wires (solder and heat shrink them). You always want as few failure points as possible.

 

[dranven]

"Adapters" (for electrical) are best avoided wherever possible. Take the time to splice the new connector to the old wires (solder and heat shrink them). You always want as few failure points as possible.

Thanks. That's good advice. I recrimped the adapter as I'm on a bit of a time crunch to make the wheeling this weekend, but will do as you suggested soon.

I purchased another alternator (130amp this time) and put everything together. The battery was initially a bit low due to the experience I posted above, reading 11.6 at resting. I started up the Cruiser and the reading is 13.43 at the battery. After letting it idle for 5 mins, the battery at resting is 12.3, so I think I'm good?

One thing I did notice: Prior to installing the Photoman bracket, my charge needle on the dash used to read about the midway point between 9 and 18. Now, even with a reading of 13.4 at the battery, the charge needle is a couple ticks above 9 and just barely makes it above 9 if I have the a/c running.

I'll continue to monitor and log anything I find worthwhile.

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[bigredmachine]

One thing I did notice: Prior to installing the Photoman bracket, my charge needle on the dash used to read about the midway point between 9 and 18. Now, even with a reading of 13.4 at the battery, the charge needle is a couple ticks above 9 and just barely makes it above 9 if I have the a/c running.

the gauges on the dash are really not the most accurate, their closeish. if you want an accurate voltage reading you should hook up an aftermarket voltage gauge something like this
BATTERY VOLTAGE, PRO STEPPER MOTOR, 52MM, WHT, 8-18V
or go with a scangauge or scangauge II since your truck is obd II » Products

 

[flintknapper]

the gauges on the dash are really not the most accurate, their closeish. if you want an accurate voltage reading you should hook up an aftermarket voltage gauge something like this
BATTERY VOLTAGE, PRO STEPPER MOTOR, 52MM, WHT, 8-18V
or go with a scangauge or scangauge II since your truck is obd II » Products

Yep, have a ScanGauge in all of my vehicles with OBDII.

 

[dranven]

Thanks guys. Gonna pick one up. I was previously using an OBDII bluetooth scanner from eBay combined with an app called 'Torque' but the scanner died after about 5 years.

As of now, the multimeter shows 14.1 at the battery with the vehicle running and magically the needle on the dash has bumped back up where it used to be.

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks guys. Gonna pick one up. I was previously using an OBDII bluetooth scanner from eBay combined with an app called 'Torque' but the scanner died after about 5 years.

As of now, the multimeter shows 14.1 at the battery with the vehicle running and magically the needle on the dash has bumped back up where it used to be.

Consider the UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool and Information Center I drive rigs with both and prefer the Ultra-Gauge, displays more info, larger, easier to read display, etc.