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Pushing the wire back didn't help. I had to use a screwdriver to wedge the jaws open, and it turned out to be a nickel (balanced perfectly over the striker) jamming the works. Now a very curved nickel.

Not sure what wire you are talking about. Sh[uldnt be any electrical stuff there that I know of.Bumping this thread for some advice...
One of the second row seats is stuck and won't fold up. I thought I could just undo the bolts in the front, but see I really don't have the clearance to get to those back bolts with the seat down. (looks like the plastic covers would get trashed in the process)
I cleared the crumbs, pennies and petrified french fries out from underneath, and hit the back/floor clasp with WD40, but still no luck.
My next move is going to be to try and grab that wire with a pair of pliers and pull, in case it's been stretched and that is the problem. The wire moves, and I do feel the clasp trying to open, but it won't release.
Does this sound right? Anything else I should try?
Thanks,
Sharon
Worst case scenario use a hammer and chisel?Bumping this thread - my JDM truck also seems to have these weird tamper proof bolts on the inner rear mounts. Any ideas where these are coming from? Can't get these bastards out.
@JettaGLi16vEven though I participated in this thread earlier, I've never actually removed my middle seats. I was in the process of doing that but I've run into two of the rear bolts (one on each seat) having a weird head that I've never seen before.
Can anyone tell me what these are called? And how to properly remove/reinstall them? They seem like a head that's designed never to be unscrewed. I guess there's a tool I need to buy for this.
View attachment 555833View attachment 555834
Bumping this thread - my JDM truck also seems to have these weird tamper proof bolts on the inner rear mounts. Any ideas where these are coming from? Can't get these bastards out.
Instead of paracord loops I used rock climbing anchors. Super solid, and you can clip just about anything onto it! A bonus is that you can belay from the driver's seat!I saw a post earlier in this thread, recommending putting the bolts back in to keep the threads clean.
X2 this fine thread can be hard to find should you miss place a bolt before it’s time to put the seats back in. I also have a little loop of para-cord captured under the bolt heads, in case I need another tie down. In fact I have removed the rear bars for the 3rd row seats & more paracord loops, as well as the high 3rd row seat belts with ….. more paracord loops !! (This last set is rather gratuitous, but has saved my dog from getting avalanched a few times )
In Spain it is illegal remove seats and use the vehicle on the road, so I have seen these 'anti tamper' bolts before, in fact if I took my 80 to an inspection without the third row which as we know simply 'unclip' it would fail.Put regular metric bolts back in there for sure...I can't even count the number of times I have pulled all of the seats out of my rig for various reasons. No point in having any tamper proof bolts...have to really question why anyone would EVER put those into the truck, as it is not really something that someone would ever consider stealing.
Steve

Interesting! This may explain why USDM trucks don't have these according to others.In Spain it is illegal remove seats and use the vehicle on the road, so I have seen these 'anti tamper' bolts before, in fact if I took my 80 to an inspection without the third row which as we know simply 'unclip' it would fail.
Another way to do this is a hacksaw at 90 degrees to the existing flat blade screw area. It's effectively what you did, but without a special tool.Got mine out today. Extraction bit and pliers. View attachment 2933094
Yeah the Dremel trick is my go-to but its being borrowed by familyAnother way to do this is a hacksaw at 90 degrees to the existing flat blade screw area. It's effectively what you did, but without a special tool.
I used to do doors, windows, locks, and bathroom stall rebuilds at a university and we used a hacksaw to cut a new slot in the head of the anti-tamper bolt heads, then unscrew them.
You can do this with a Dremel also.