Removal and reinstallation of IP on 1HD-T Question (1 Viewer)

[NLScooby]

I just purchased a '91 HDJ81 and it has roughly 275K Km on it. The injection pump seems to have a leak around where the distributive head meets the IP body (o-ring likely). I have the FSM - and I found a shop to rebuild it local to me (and reasonably priced).

My question is: do you need the specialty tools shown in the FSM to remove and reinstall the pump? I'm totally confident in the shop's ability to rebuild the pump, but they have never worked on a pump installed in this application (an HDJ81).

Thanks!

 

[tweeek]

The tensioner spring can be removed and reinstalled with a couple screwdrivers. You will need a puller (pusher) with some long metric bolts to push the IP out of the gear.

Setting the timing does require a dial gauge with specific extensions.

 

[Rock40]

And depending, it can be a total bitch to separate the IP gear from the IP itself even with a good puller. When I took my 1HD-FT apart, the gear came off just fine. When I was tearing down a 1HD-T however, I couldn't get it apart no matter what I tried.

 

[NLScooby]

Hmmm - I'm still on the fence....

Thanks for the replies!

 

[db3]

And depending, it can be a total bitch to separate the IP gear from the IP itself even with a good puller. When I took my 1HD-FT apart, the gear came off just fine. When I was tearing down a 1HD-T however, I couldn't get it apart no matter what I tried.

Getting the IP off was a problem when I started working on my 1HZ. Even using a Snap-On bar puller and 8.8 grade bolts, I was having difficulties. However, a couple of good wacks with a hammer, and the use of an impact on the forcing screw finally got it off. Inspecting the key showed why. Who ever installed the pump didn't bother to slightly turn the IP gear to line up the pump key, and obviously used an impact to set the pump. The next time I pulled the pump, it came off easily. You don't need the SST's shown in the FSM, only a good puller and quality bolts. To remove and install the IP bolt, install the puller and remove the forcing screw. Hold the puller bar with an adjustable wrench. I used a socket with extension though the puller to access the bolt. As for the tension spring, I bent a brake tool 90 degrees (to clear the radiator) and slightly ground down the cup to make it easier for the spring to slide over. When removing the lines to the injectors, be sure to mark them and the sequence they came off. That will make installation much easier. The job it not that hard - good luck.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I also found it a bitch to get the gear of the pump shaft.
Removal of the tensioner spring can be done with a loop of wire, or paracord. Loop it on the end of the spring pull on the cord from under the fender to get the spring clear of the little post. Useful for reinstall too

Putting the pump back in can be problematic too. If the pump and gears aren't installed in the correct order and with care, you can create a side load on the pump shaft and cause premature seal failure.

 

[NLScooby]

Getting the IP off was a problem when I started working on my 1HZ. Even using a Snap-On bar puller and 8.8 grade bolts, I was having difficulties. However, a couple of good wacks with a hammer, and the use of an impact on the forcing screw finally got it off. Inspecting the key showed why. Who ever installed the pump didn't bother to slightly turn the IP gear to line up the pump key, and obviously used an impact to set the pump. The next time I pulled the pump, it came off easily. You don't need the SST's shown in the FSM, only a good puller and quality bolts. To remove and install the IP bolt, install the puller and remove the forcing screw. Hold the puller bar with an adjustable wrench. I used a socket with extension though the puller to access the bolt. As for the tension spring, I bent a brake tool 90 degrees (to clear the radiator) and slightly ground down the cup to make it easier for the spring to slide over. When removing the lines to the injectors, be sure to mark them and the sequence they came off. That will make installation much easier. The job it not that hard - good luck.

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Wow - thanks for the great photos - I can see why that would be hard to remove!!

 

[NLScooby]

I also found it a bitch to get the gear of the pump shaft.
Removal of the tensioner spring can be done with a loop of wire, or paracord. Loop it on the end of the spring pull on the cord from under the fender to get the spring clear of the little post. Useful for reinstall too

Putting the pump back in can be problematic too. If the pump and gears aren't installed in the correct order and with care, you can create a side load on the pump shaft and cause premature seal failure.

Thank you for the tip! I have a brake spring tool (from drums) that would probably work for the tensioner spring....I'm thinking anyway.