Red or Pink coolants for 2002 Land Cruiser?

[41togo]

So getting ready to do a coolant flush, previous owner did two flushes to 130k. This will be my third flush at 190k. Timing belt/ water pump by Indy shop at 140k, radiator by another shop at 170k, unknown coolants but it’s red color. As I learning more and more on this truck, going OEM on brake fluid and now coolant.
This time I’m going to attempt to do it myself tho. There’s lots of choices out there but Toyota OEM red long life appears probably best but expensive.
Questions: What about Pink extra long life and how many gallons? Do you follow the manual or test coolant for replacement? Thanks!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Putting your MY and LC/LX in your sig helps with answers to questions.

 

[Super77]

For MYs prior to 2004, Toyota Long Life coolant (aka “red”) is compatible with the factory fill. Zerex Asian Vehicle Red is equivalent and a little cheaper. A true flush requires draining both sides of the block or doing successive fill/drains. Just over 3.5 gallons capacity, including rear heater.

Do your heater tees at the same time if they have not been replaced.

 

[excessive]

I'm still using red in 2025, but if you can fully flush pink lasts a long longer. Red lasts maybe 2-3 years and 30k miles

 

[Tareq]

I used pink for my 2002.8 JDM
But I was wondering if anyone uses aftermarket concentrated coolant?

I think it is easier to flush with distilled water 3 times or so to get close to 100% water, then add 50% concentrated and let them mix in there.

When my coolant flush is due after 4 years, I was thinking of using

 

[Super77]

I think it is easier to flush with distilled water 3 times or so to get close to 100% water, then add 50% concentrated and let them mix in there.

Rad holds a little under half the total system capacity. So, if you flush enough times to fill the system with 100% distilled water, then drain just the radiator and refill it with undiluted concentrate, you’ll theoretically have approximately 50/50 once it has circulated for a while.

But, you’ll now have many gallons of coolant-contaminated water to dispose of after multiple drain/fill cycles that take more time. Why not drain the whole system just once and refill with exactly the right amount and ratio?

 

[LXMarksTheSpot]

I have a case of OEM anxiety and why not. I need my truck to function correctly when I am on the trail. I vote to flush it by the FSM, fill it with OEM, change the heater t, and forgot about it. I just did that 3 months ago. It was pretty easy.

 

[Tareq]

Rad holds a little under half the total system capacity. So, if you flush enough times to fill the system with 100% distilled water, then drain just the radiator and refill it with undiluted concentrate, you’ll theoretically have approximately 50/50 once it has circulated for a while.

But, you’ll now have many gallons of coolant-contaminated water to dispose of after multiple drain/fill cycles that take more time. Why not drain the whole system just once and refill with exactly the right amount and ratio?

I appreciate your input

I was lazy + didnt have socket extension to reach the block drains on both sides. So I drained the rad , 6 Liters, leaving 15 Liters, 40%.
Filled with distilled water.
After 2 days, I drained 6L again, filled with pink Toyota, 55/45 mix here in Canada.
After 2 days I repeated it again, and a 3rd time after 2 days.
4 gallons total with reservoir.

You are correct, it would be easier if I drain extra fluid from the block, but according to other 2uz videos on Youtube, less than 2 Liters came out on both sides, thats 8 Liter total, so only 50%, so you still have to do multiple flushes either way.

Therefore, I thought why not use concentrate next time after I flush everything out with distilled first multiple times. Thankfully, mechanic shops take used coolants free, I drop off at different shops on each round