Recommend Rear Lower Control arms/Links?

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Joined
Apr 30, 2017
Threads
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Location
near Prescott, AZ
Hey gang- Been searching, just can't find squat on this topic.....perhaps I don't know how to search very well?
2007 LC, have replaced rear lower control arms/links with OEM twice...now time to get serious!
Not hardcore offroader, not rock crawler, but dang, keep getting caught in rocks beds/gardens and bend the crap out of them and screw up steering, also have worn out the rubber bushing on both upper and lowers.
A 200 friend recommended MetalTech offset rear lower links.

Experience for the 100?
Thx

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Landtank's

Rod, not tube, ultra-beefy bushing rings, Toyota OEM bushings.
 
Landtank's

Rod, not tube, ultra-beefy bushing rings, Toyota OEM bushings.
200 friend mentioned them too, didn't think I needed quite that much beef, but they're virtually same price. Don't see any reference to them having a johnny joint, do you know?
 
200 friend mentioned them too, didn't think I needed quite that much beef, but they're virtually same price. Don't see any reference to them having a johnny joint, do you know?
They don't - I don't actually care for the JohnnyJoint, at least for this application...they squeak and wear out faster...and if they loosen and back off (they are adjustable length) they ruin their own threads completely.

I had the Landtanks on my 80 and they were bomb-proof.

On my 100, I have the MetalTech uppers with the JohnnyJoints and use those to adjust pinion angle while still retaining the OEM lowers
but the Landtanks would work the same way in this application but add significant strength.
 
I'm not lifted and will never lift it (I have mobility issues, couldn't get in it if any higher), although TB are cranked to max.....is the adjustable/articulation of the johnny joint mostly beneficial when lifted? Does LankTank just use the same size OEM bushing thickness?
 
If the LTs have the OEM bushing, if it's worn, is just the bushing replaceable?
 
Yeah...once you leave the factory geometry, things need to be adjustable. And as you identify, better articulation when stuffing one side while the other side goes to full extension. Landtanks have OEM bushings pre-installed, the actual genuine article. But the large rings that the bushings mount into are thicker/stronger.
 
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You can also just weld angle iron to the bottom of the OEM ones and gain strength an a good sliding surface for rock contact.
Rather get the solid ones than weld onto existing.
Just replaced the uppers arms with OEM this week, bushings were really torn up, and original with car.
So the LTs w/OEM bushing provide enough articulation on the lowers?
 
Rather get the solid ones than weld onto existing.
Just replaced the uppers arms with OEM this week, bushings were really torn up, and original with car.
So the LTs w/OEM bushing provide enough articulation on the lowers?

Well, "enough" is subjective to use but yeah, I would say so. They took me and my 80 over "The Crack" and the rest of Golden Spike in Moab. With non-adjustable/OEM uppers. The rear suspension for the 100 is super similar to the 80, identical except for axle length IIRC.

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I've skipped the crack....not being lifted (but I do have working AHC), and on 33s....happy to watch my friends do it. I have scrapped the crap out of every thing on Hells Revenge & Fins however! My skids came in handy, but rear tail hitch takes alot of abuse on that trail. I swear I'm going to get it cut down in length some day!

Yes, that's enough articulation! Thanks.
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Nice! You probably could have made it with just some minimal scrapping. That's what the rear hitch is for! It gives you a good noise cue for how close you are and keeps other stuff from getting hit like the spare. I and others call it the "rear stinger" ;)
Landtank is probably the only one who sells them...just DM him here @landtank
 
that's why I leave it on. Since these pics I've moved to 295/70-17, roughly 33.43", doesn't fit in well anymore...now it's in cargo ratchet strapped down on my Yakima single drawer using factory tie downs.
 
Because I'm not lifted, I should get the stock length LTs? Right?
Which, as I think I understand, are not adjustable.
Because I'm not lfited and never will be, I think I don't need adjustable? Do I have that correct?
I'm not understanding what I'd need to adjust pinion angle for if I'm stock height? (Or is it because TB are maxed? Or is it because my tires are a bit taller than stock?).
Really appreciate your help. Suspension is not something I'm super knowledgeable about.
 
Thanks! His website let me put them in cart and got to payment screen...so looks promising.
 
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