Rear shocks shot, seeking input

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

CharlieS

CharlieS

GOLD Star
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Threads
453
Messages
9,225
Hi all,

I'm looking for some guidance.

I killed a set of factory rear shocks last weekend, they have lost a lot (maybe all) dampening and the rear suspension is clunking over road surface irregularities. The rear pogos, and has a lot of sway when making lane transitions. This is all new behavior.

I think I did this by towing a camper, maybe with too much tongue weight (overall tow weight was under 7K lbs). I think I was riding too low in the shock's stroke and it must've been bottoming out.

Backstory: I towed this same load last year with King 2.5 and OME 2724s and it handled it like a champ. My Kings were tired, and I wanted to go back to a street setup, so I installled a low mileage takeoff stock front suspension with brand new rear Toyota shocks.

Even with anti sway bars, the rear of the 200 was clearly very compressed. More than I was happy with. We went camping a couple of hundred miles away (some of it over corrugated dirt roads) and when we were back home and unhooked, I started to notice the major differences in handling.

The fronts seem fine. The easiest (and cheapest) thing to do would be to throw another set of factory shocks on, but I suspect that I'd just kill them quickly too.

I want to do something that my younger self sould say is stupid - mildly upgrade the rear shocks and install some close to stock springs in the rear only. I've always been a strong proponent of upgrading the whole system, not just one axle. This time I don't want the cost, or hassle of replacing the fronts again so soon.

My static load is fairly heavy with trekbox cargo boxes in the rear and half of the second row, usually loaded with gear and tools, so mud friends previously recommended the OME 2721.

I think the 2721 will get me close to stock ride height (because of the heavy static cargo load), with more load carrying capacity, and will be progressive (as long as I don't carry too much weight to overcome the soft part of the coils).

What shocks could I match up to these? I'm looking for lower cost options - non reservoir, non adjustable.

I'm looking for good on the street, not harsh (I like the factory ride). I'd consider the OME Nitrocharger too harsh, for example.

I commute more than eighty miles a day, about half of that highway, so want stock-like ride quality. We only tow the camper a half dozen times a year, so I don't want to optimize for towing and then suffer during the commute.

Does Bilstein have an offering that would pair up with the 2721s nicely?

I found this in a google search: Bilstein 24-269049 Rear 4600 Heavy Duty (B6) Shock Absorber Toyota Land Cruiser

Has anyone here tried these?

I can do a matched front and rear if I have to, I just don't know when I'll be able to make shop time to get it done. I'd rather not though.

Also, full disclosure, I installed a set of Firestone airbags, but misplaced the valves so never aired them up. Maybe if I had the airbags inflated it might have helped keep the shocks from bottoming out and destroying themselves so quickly? Any advice or experience here would be helpful.

IMG_4974.webp
 
Last edited:
Looks like an awesome setup there.

Regarding failure of the stock rear shocks, before choosing anything else it'd be important to address bottoming out the shocks if that's truly how they failed. Is there any modification to the rear jounce stops in coil? Meaning are any sections cut out of the cone for the airbags? And any modifications to the frame mounted bump stops? Both are important to whatever new rear shock you get to avoid future failure.

That said, is there a chance these shocks failed due to heat from the high load, high spring rate, plus use case? That'd be something that you'll want to consider in picking a replacement shock. A monotube style shock like the Bilstein 4600 will help in this regard with better heat dissipation than OEM twin tube shocks. Also consider that it's a firmer shock (but potentially better matched to your built in weight) may have some consequence to ride quality.

I think @Boston Mangler has a similar setup with 2721s?
 
Thanks. l

We really like this camper. It is perfect for two adultsto camp in comfort.

Yes! That's right, I had to cut down the rubber jounce stops inside the coil as a part of the airbag install! I totally forgot about that. That probably let them compress further than they were designed for, and under significant load.

If I finish the airbag install and put some
pressure in the bags, I think it would address this issue?

The frame mounted bump stops are stock though.

I think unless I go to a custom valved high end setup, there are probably going to be inevitable tradeoffs in ride quality, I'd just like it to be a little better than the OME Nitrocharger ride.

I ran this series of Bilsteins on a former 100 series and was happy with them.

Then again, maybe with air in the airbags the stock shocks would be fine? They're inexpensive and ride nice. Maybe worth one more try after addressing the issue I created by not finishing the airbag install properly.
 
Last edited:
4600s sound perfect. Those will be my next dampers if I feel the need to move on from stock. In your case they aren't matched to the front but with your permanently installed setup I think it may actually be an improvement over stock in the rear.

And yes properly setup airbags would probably have prevented the shocks dying so quick. But still maybe not enough damping for your use case.
 
Parts ordered - OME 2721 springs and the Bilstein 4600 shocks. I can always upgrade the front suspension after if it doesn't work with the stock front suspension.

I'll finish the airbag install too.

Should I be thinking about some extended frame mounted bump stops?
 
Last edited:
TeCKis300 said:
Looks like an awesome setup there.

Regarding failure of the stock rear shocks, before choosing anything else it'd be important to address bottoming out the shocks if that's truly how they failed. Is there any modification to the rear jounce stops in coil? Meaning are any sections cut out of the cone for the airbags? And any modifications to the frame mounted bump stops? Both are important to whatever new rear shock you get to avoid future failure.

That said, is there a chance these shocks failed due to heat from the high load, high spring rate, plus use case? That'd be something that you'll want to consider in picking a replacement shock. A monotube style shock like the Bilstein 4600 will help in this regard with better heat dissipation than OEM twin tube shocks. Also consider that it's a firmer shock (but potentially better matched to your built in weight) may have some consequence to ride quality.

I think @Boston Mangler has a similar setup with 2721s?
Click to expand...

I’m am running the 5160 rears with the remote resi and the 2721 springs

Seems to be the perfect sweet spot for me. Solo occupant, drawers and fridge

IMG_3582.webp
 
Installed, one short test run in. Stiffer/firmer than stock; rides more like my Ineos Grenadier stock than the Toyota LC 200 stock. 2721s definitely added some additional height. Rides decently though and I'm much more confident about towing with this setup. The sway and wallow are gone.

IMG_5282.webp
 
I'm happy with this setup so far. It handles the commute well, and has every indication that it will handle the towing. The rear is a bit higher than some people may like (some additional rake), but it works for me. Further report to follow once I tow with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom