Rear Pass Door Won't Open

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Ok news update... Funny thing reading through all the threads on this topic to find for the most part one common thread... Speakers... And talk of melted plastic near the spring...

Finally got into the door, I failed to mention that my stereo was on the fritz also, didn't seem related but when I removed the door speaker it had sparks from the speakers wires... Once removed the stereo worked fine, simple enough short...

So could this be... Could a short in the wires from the speaker send enough current into the latch to melt plastic to spring? It would seem so... We cut a new shim to prevent this from happening on the other side, thanks to Kevin (Wagongear):-) Now I need to find a door latch from someone parting a 80 out and I'll shim the new latch also...

For now it's ratchet straps for me :-)
image-2998983849.webp
 
AMMO said:
Ok news update... Funny thing reading through all the threads on this topic to find for the most part one common thread... Speakers... And talk of melted plastic near the spring...

Finally got into the door, I failed to mention that my stereo was on the fritz also, didn't seem related but when I removed the door speaker it had sparks from the speakers wires... Once removed the stereo worked fine, simple enough short...

So could this be... Could a short in the wires from the speaker send enough current into the latch to melt plastic to spring? It would seem so... We cut a new shim to prevent this from happening on the other side, thanks to Kevin (Wagongear):-) Now I need to find a door latch from someone parting a 80 out and I'll shim the new latch also...

For now it's ratchet straps for me :-)
Click to expand...
If the wires are not completely melted I doubt they melted the plastic, but it's possible.. I guess.
Head to a&g auto in crewel ali has a few cruisers down there.
Good to hear you got it open.
 
I used a small pry bar and pull through the speaker hole on the panel. It wasn't easy but once I got a few detents to pop the rest popped right off with a swift tug. It was a PITA, but once the panel was off we had to smash the lock apart to open the door. Rode around with a ratchet strap keeping the door closed until I located a new lock. I did put stainless shims into the new lock and the other back door to prevent the spring from melting into the plastic again.
 
Had this same issue and thought I would post up my experience.

I was able to get the door open without destroying anything.

I remove the following:
Seat belt B pillar trim
Rear door sill trim panel (the one that goes over the wheel well)
Door card (use a trim prying tool or you will tear the particle board)
Outside door handle (use a short 10mm wrench)
All linkage rods

I also removed the anti-slimjim plastic cover.

Now, you can get a screwdriver in there and pry down directly on the latch actuation pin, and at the same time, push/pull the door in and out. Doing this, I was able to get the door to unlatch.
How to open the door with a screwdriver

How to open the door with a screwdriver


Now you can get the lock assembly out and probably find this:
Melted rear door spring

Melted rear door spring


The spring was half-melted into the plastic housing and couldn't do it's job. I freed the spring, filed the plastic flat, then cut a small shim from an old Tupperware container similar to the one shown in this thread. I installed that with new grease then put it back in. As good as new!
 
i think i've joined this not-so-exclusive club

we had a winter storm last night, and found i couldn't get the rear passenger door open. figured it was just frozen shut l like some of the other doors. except when i climbed inside to push out on the door to free it.....nothing. no combo of cycling the inner or outer handles or lock actuator will get the door open. i can hear things moving in that area but obviously can't SEE what the actual problem is.

looks like i can get in there to open it w/ a screwdriver but its not going to be easy. but i'm at a loss for what the actual FIX is. the common failure appears to be old plastic gets somehow embedded in the spring. maybe it will all make sense once i'm in there. new assembly's are discontinued of course.

until then my kids can climb in the working door and slide across :)
 
jht3 said:
i think i've joined this not-so-exclusive club

we had a winter storm last night, and found i couldn't get the rear passenger door open. figured it was just frozen shut l like some of the other doors. except when i climbed inside to push out on the door to free it.....nothing. no combo of cycling the inner or outer handles or lock actuator will get the door open. i can hear things moving in that area but obviously can't SEE what the actual problem is.

looks like i can get in there to open it w/ a screwdriver but its not going to be easy. but i'm at a loss for what the actual FIX is. the common failure appears to be old plastic gets somehow embedded in the spring. maybe it will all make sense once i'm in there. new assembly's are discontinued of course.

until then my kids can climb in the working door and slide across :)
Click to expand...

The fix is to install another piece of more durable plastic/metal for the spring to slide against instead of getting caught up in the original, possibly mangled spring slot. Maybe a beefier spring would help too.
 
anothernord said:
The fix is to install another piece of more durable plastic/metal for the spring to slide against instead of getting caught up in the original, possibly mangled spring slot. Maybe a beefier spring would help too.
Click to expand...

ahhh, gotcha. that makes sense

but as it turns out i think my power lock actuator was just frozen/sticking. after cycling the power locks a dozen times during a 20min drive, the rear passenger door opened right up.

then i realized my rear DRIVERS side door isn't always locking :bang:. i think my actuators are full of old thick frozen grease; same issue but in reverse. so i think my actual fix once the weather warms up is to take to doors apart and clean/re-lube everything, replace the actuators, and replace the window regulators/motors while i'm in there. slippery slope these trucks! i THINK all that stuff is available from RockAuto, Aisin, etc. Already replaced the hatch lock actuator, which cross references with one of the rear door actuators.
 
AMMO said:
Ok news update... Funny thing reading through all the threads on this topic to find for the most part one common thread... Speakers... And talk of melted plastic near the spring...

Finally got into the door, I failed to mention that my stereo was on the fritz also, didn't seem related but when I removed the door speaker it had sparks from the speakers wires... Once removed the stereo worked fine, simple enough short...

So could this be... Could a short in the wires from the speaker send enough current into the latch to melt plastic to spring? It would seem so... We cut a new shim to prevent this from happening on the other side, thanks to Kevin (Wagongear):) Now I need to find a door latch from someone parting a 80 out and I'll shim the new latch also...

For now it's ratchet straps for me :)
View attachment 601647
Click to expand...
Ammo, I’m Dealing with the same problem you did 10 years ago. How did you finally get that passenger door open? If you can recall..
By the way I did have some new speakers put in there a while back and I’m wondering whether a short melted the plastic like it did in your case.
Thanks for your time if you have a chance to help me out, I’d appreciate it.
 
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