Rear Pass Door Won't Open (1 Viewer)

[AMMO]

Hey Guy's,

Anyone ever get "locked out" of just one door? My back pass door won't open for the life of it, the lock is unlocked. I can hear the lock move to lock and unlock. It would seem I can't get the interior door panel off with the door shut from the inside. This happened about a week ago and I was able to get in with a combo of pushing and pulling on the door. I hit up the actuator on the door with some tri-flow and thought I had it solved. No such luck.

I studied the other locks and noticed if you flip the lock to lock and the unlock nothing really flips, or moves on the edge of the door, its the pulling force when you pull the door that flips the lock back, so I'm thinking somewhere in the middle I have a disconnect.

Any ideas how to get into the door or break into it?

Thanks,

Matt

 

[CJF]

Can't imagine it being hard to remove the door panel if you remove the second row seat.

 

[AMMO]

The door trim keeps you from popping the panel inwards, can't remove that trim unless the door is open as it runs under the door and over the sill lip....

I've had these panels off before, easy with the door open, not so with it frozen shut.

Thanks tho.

-A

 

[CJF]

I've gotten into the front with the door stuck closed. Not the whole panel off, but enough to get to the latch mechanism. I'll look at my rig tonight, but I find it hard to believe you couldn't do the same with the rear.

I mean c'mon: What are your options anyway?

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

You're not the first to have this problem. Broken spring in the door latch mechanism. Search 80s Tech for "latch rear door panel" and you'll see several threads, along with how to proceed to get it open.

 

[skintunes]

Slim jim is worth a shot

 

[CJF]

You're not the first to have this problem. Broken spring in the door latch mechanism. Search 80s Tech for "latch rear door panel" and you'll see several threads, along with how to proceed to get it open.

Bingo:

Progress!

Window down (thanks offroad 80!), interior peeled back enough to get in there (with only minor damage to the panel, so far!). Really helps to remove the frame trim just behind the door.

All linkages appear to work fine, it is broken exactly at the latch itself
Now the task is to figure out how to pop it open working between the frame and door, and hopefully without further harming the interior panel.

Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions, ideas, brainstorming, humor and support!
It will be fixed!

 

[AMMO]

Sweet, thank you gentlemen... wasn't sure how to narrow down that search.

-A

 

[AMMO]

I've gotten into the front with the door stuck closed. Not the whole panel off, but enough to get to the latch mechanism. I'll look at my rig tonight, but I find it hard to believe you couldn't do the same with the rear.

I mean c'mon: What are your options anyway?

I hear ya man, thats why I was asking for options... The top of the panel hooks over the lip, the bottoms are held in place with press plugs and the door sills ride high on the panels in the rear.

Hence you can't really pull the panels outwards since the sill on the bottom bumps it and the top hooks over the door.

I'll get to searching.

-A

 

[CJF]

Keep us posted.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Any luck?

 

[Grench]

When my driver's door linkage went weak/broke I was able to open the door by rolling down the window and using the inside and outside handles at the same time. You might try that just to open it up.

 

[donutfj80]

When my rear doors are stuck shut, I know its time to hammer the rocker straight again

 

[AMMO]

I havent gotten the inner panel off yet... I did some exploratory surgery on the other door. Having problems with the panel and the lower sill, I've pulled the detents through the MDF if a few places already :-( I've been trying to work through the speaker opening as I can't get at the panel edge...

Still trying...

 

[Grench]

I havent gotten the inner panel off yet... I did some exploratory surgery on the other door. Having problems with the panel and the lower sill, I've pulled the detents through the MDF if a few places already :-( I've been trying to work through the speaker opening as I can't get at the panel edge...

Still trying...

Did you remove the 2nd row seats to make room? Go in through the OTHER side door. IIRC it's 6 bolts per seat - if you have an impact gun it makes short work of them. It would take you <10 minutes with air. If you're doing it with a ratchet it might take 20 on a casual day.

With the seats out of the way, you can pretty much lay over the floor with a flat pry-bar. Be sure to remove the handle & arm rest trim and the bezel around the opening lever before you pry open the door panel.

The seats in these trucks are actually very easy to remove. Just make sure you put them back right (for safety).

 

[AMMO]

Yup man I'm pretty well versed on working on this rig... You will see in the 3rd pic there is no reveal even with the door jamb trim removed.. It's tight all the way around the door on the jamb and sill... I've removed the panels before, it's a snap with the door open and access to the panel edge.. This case not so much :-(

 

[Gunnermon]

I could take inner panel of without moving 2-nd row seats. Ha d to become a bit of contortionist, but doable. Took off the plastic cover on both side of the door first I think. Anyway, it wasn't that hard.

 

[AMMO]

I'll take off the mid pillar trim today and see if that gives me any more room. I'll get into it one way or another. Perhaps the 94 panels are over fit from some other years, but there is 1/4 over lap on all sides from panel to sill and jamb. The locks are covered so slim jims are not an option. Maybe if I practice on the other door I can run a coat hanger up the speaker inlet and hook the top rod on the latch.

In a nut shell, I might need to sacrifice this door panel to get at the issue.

-Ammo

 

[CJF]

Wow.


Your pic's show that indeed there doesn't appear to be any easy way in.

Hang in there...

 

[cruiser concepts]

hey MR. id try to actuate the latch with a long pick or whatever you can get in there from the ineer belt molding area.take the door panel off the other side studdy the latch so you can get a good metal picture as to what needs to be pushed/pulled. i know the cruisers have some anti slim jim cover in there so a good studdt will be needed. if you like you can bring it be the shop and we can mess with it. i should be down there today sometime.
txt me.