Rear Main Seal and Transfer Case re-build with 3.1:1 lower gears and part time kit. Pull Transmission?

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hisandhers80s

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I am going deep into while I am in here land. I am goign to be doing the full suspension, so I will have that out of the way, and going to pull the upper and lower oil pans and reseal them, and also have a transfer case rebuild kit that I am going to use to rebuild then and install the 3.1:1 re-gear kit. I figured if I am this close, I should replace the rear main seal as well. The question is, should I just pull the transmission and transfer case as one unit, then separate the transfer case, or should I take off the transfer case, then just separate the transmission enough to get to the rear main seal?

Also, if I have to pull the transmission to get to the rear main seal, what else should I refresh while I have access besides just the rear main seal?
 
I did this about a hundred years ago on my 3FE. There's no such thing as pulling the transmission just enough to get to the rear main. You have to remove the flex plate and loosen the rearmost bearing cap. I can't imagine that it's that much different for the 1FZ.
I would consult with the FSM.
 
I did this about a hundred years ago on my 3FE. There's no such thing as pulling the transmission just enough to get to the rear main. You have to remove the flex plate and loosen the rearmost bearing cap. I can't imagine that it's that much different for the 1FZ.
I would consult with the FSM.
I assumed this based on what I read in the FSM, but was not sure if those that came before me had found a way to just pull it back enough to handle the job without full removal.
 
Gonna need to lift the engine in order to drop the number 1 oil pan.

Honestly at that point your better off pulling the whole drivetrain, and dealing with everything while it’s out.
 
Some things you can get to easily while the trans is out..

Pesky heater hose
Motor mounts
Line trans tunnel with heat shield
I currently have the valeve cover off and both upper and lower intake plenums off, so the pesky heater hose is absolutely on the list! I have ordered the motor mounts as well, but had not thought of lining the trans tunnel! Thanks for the tip!
 
Honestly at that point your better off pulling the whole drivetrain, and dealing with everything while it’s out.
That's what I'm about to do with mine. I need to replace the rear main seal and reseal the timing chain cover. Both can be done w/o pulling the engine, but the labor is the same to just pull the entire drive drain. And then while it's out, it's much easier to address other things like proactively resealing the upper oil pan, and replacing any other seals and hoses that might need it. For the OP, you should consider replacing the oil pump seal and front crankshaft seal while you're at it.
 
That's what I'm about to do with mine. I need to replace the rear main seal and reseal the timing chain cover. Both can be done w/o pulling the engine, but the labor is the same to just pull the entire drive drain. And then while it's out, it's much easier to address other things like proactively resealing the upper oil pan, and replacing any other seals and hoses that might need it. For the OP, you should consider replacing the oil pump seal and front crankshaft seal while you're at it.
Already done both the oil pump gasket and the front crankshaft seal. Really not wanting to mess with the head so that is the only hesitation on taking the entire thing out.
 
Add new rear heater hardlines to the list, if you're pulling the drivetrain. They're still available and you can't swap them unless the drivetrain is out.
 
Add new rear heater hardlines to the list, if you're pulling the drivetrain. They're still available and you can't swap them unless the drivetrain is out.
Already did the rear heater bypass and have removed the heater from under the passenger seat!
 
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