What has anyone that deleted their rear heater used to cover the hole in the floor? Is there a body plug for 80's that didn't have one? Or just glue whatever over it with body seam sealer?
Rear Heater Delete?
- Thread starter CaptBeardilocks
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i left it in place and just looped out the coolant lines at the firewall. if your not planning on rerunning the rear heat lines you could just weld in a piece of sheet metal over the hole in the floor
- Thread starter
- #4
Yeah, the heater is already in the trash heap. Might throw a small lock box in there or some storage.
Just wondering what the poverty pack trucks look like under the passenger seat.
Just wondering what the poverty pack trucks look like under the passenger seat.
voodu3
SILVER Star
Sure @Onur , if you want to do it the right way.........
I used a license plate and a 3M seam sealer.
I used a license plate and a 3M seam sealer.
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The only one I’ve seen just had a sheet metal floor. Do you have the part number to said plug?
I did a small stainless steel plate and some epoxy so I didn’t mess up any paint so no rust later on
I used an old license plate with 2 layers of Fatt matt on both mine and then acoutic foam over the whole floor..... works perfectly and huge noise reduction, especially if you take it up the firewall.
Electrical 1/2 KO plugs
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks for all the help guys.
After all the advice here I think I’ll dig out the old Craftsman staple gun & a piece of cardboard and just bang that the over the hole. I have some of that really good 3-ply cardboard left from the boxes my Icon shocks came in. I might run a little FIPG (the RED stuff not the GREY) around the edges just to make sure it doesn’t leak but has room to flex.
(psssst @Onar: what’s the part number for the good stuff?
)
After all the advice here I think I’ll dig out the old Craftsman staple gun & a piece of cardboard and just bang that the over the hole. I have some of that really good 3-ply cardboard left from the boxes my Icon shocks came in. I might run a little FIPG (the RED stuff not the GREY) around the edges just to make sure it doesn’t leak but has room to flex.
(psssst @Onar: what’s the part number for the good stuff?
)
Howdy, the picture is not showing up for me. Do you have the photo or part number? Been searching through parts diagrams with no luck.
- Thread starter
- #16
I never found the OEM parts. I just body seam sealed in a piece of tin.
Joey over at Wits End is now selling a machined aluminum solution if you have the $$$.
Thanks for the tip. Not sure I want to drop $65 on plugging a hole but it is a nice solution
Yup. I made a promise to everyone and myself that if Wits’ End is going to survive, and thrive, everything I make is a strict 60% gpm straight across the board. I was concerned about the price a little but 30 sold right away so I’m not too worried.
80 Series Rear Heater Delete Block-Off Plate
80 Series Rear Heater Delete Block-Off Plate (RHD-2)
fair enough.Yup. I made a promise to everyone and myself that if Wits’ End is going to survive, and thrive, everything I make is a strict 60% gpm straight across the board. I was concerned about the price a little but 30 sold right away so I’m not too worried.
80 Series Rear Heater Delete Block-Off Plate
80 Series Rear Heater Delete Block-Off Plate (RHD-2)absolute-wits-end.com
Still want to try to track down that part number for the OE rubber plug though... anyone?
davidp14
SILVER Star
I used HVAC tape on both sides after cleaning really well. It's held up for a couple years without issues.
The tape is like ten bucks per roll and you can use it for a lot of other repairs that are exposed to heat.
The tape is like ten bucks per roll and you can use it for a lot of other repairs that are exposed to heat.