Rear Frame Crossmember Rust - cut or treat (1 Viewer)

[crolison]

So after a little bit of time of owning my Arizona / Colorado Springs 100. I went to clean up the frame before fluid filming. I found a soft spot barely started in this typical frame spot. The frame did have a lot of dirt come out of the crossmember in the location of the hole. The rest of the truck looked really good.

I have the opportunity to cut out the affected frame and portion of crossmember and weld in clean metal. I am not sure if I should or not.

So far I’ve:
wire wheeled inside the crossmember
Scraped with different pry bars / screw drivers (frame seems strong with hammering a pry bar into it)
Cleaned with solvent
Sprayed with Eastwood rust encapsulator
Sprayed with Eastwood frame paint
Sprayed with fluid film

on the inside of the frame by the spot I’ve:
Sprayed Eastwood internal frame coating
Fluid filmed

here are some pics, now wondering if I should cut it out if I can.

 

[ramangain]

Bust out the welder!

 

[Frogg420]

Thanks for the post. Same spot for me, I think different rot. So I want to hear what is being said. Beside part-out

 

[hickuptruck]

OPs spot is a very common spot/design flaw by Toyota. I've seen spotless trucks develop a hole there, because gunk all gets trapped there with nowhere to go. Its the first spot to rust inside out on the 100.

Thanks for the post. Same spot for me, I think different rot. So I want to hear what is being said. Beside part-out
View attachment 2466362View attachment 2466363

This however is fk'ed. Not the same spot. Yours is either bust out the welder or part out. That frame is burnt toast.

 

[thibaut]

To the OP, I have the same but slightly less. I have treated the area with rust converter. It’s not large enough yet in my case to repair.
In any case I think it’s not a big job as the area is super accessible

 

[crolison]

OPs spot is a very common spot/design flaw by Toyota. I've seen spotless trucks develop a hole there, because gunk all gets trapped there with nowhere to go. Its the first spot to rust inside out on the 100.

To the OP, I have the same but slightly less. I have treated the area with rust converter. It’s not large enough yet in my case to repair.
In any case I think it’s not a big job as the area is super accessible

Yeah i dont think mine is that bad. Essentially it was just one little bubble i starting picking away with, then hammering away with. I think i chiseled for 2 hours to make sure i got it all. I wouldn't consider mine technically large enough or enough eaten away to be a structural issue and since i caught it and "dealt" with it i should be good. One of my fabricator friends could bend up a new "L" piece of frame to replace the affected part of the frame then cnc cut out new crossmember pieces. But not sure if there is any downsides if i can wire wheel the backside of the newly welded in piece, prime and paint inside the frame of the new piece vs just leaving it as is.

I think its more of a piece of mind thing if i cut it out and replace, but i do plan on keeping the truck for a while (good history, and maintenance, and relatively clean minus this spot).

 

[Kabanstva]

Man this makes me want to go under the truck and fluid film the hell out of that area.

 

[cmw]

Every time my truck is up on the lift I think about drilling a 1/2-3/4" hole in that spot for a drain and to be able to wash it out and then get some POR up in there.

 

[skhochay]

do you all know that you have to power wash your trucks frame internally with high pressure and soap at least once a year

 

[Kabanstva]

do you all know that you have to power wash your trucks frame internally with high pressure and soap at least once a year

I did not know that.

 

[ramangain]

do you all know that you have to power wash your trucks frame internally with high pressure and soap at least once a year

Link to Mr. T document please

 

[Das Shtig]

I have this same rust spot. Mine is worse than OP, but still not that big of a deal. Gonna treat, along with the rest of my rusty spots, asap. Evidently a common spot, maybe it should be added to FAQ or the slee guide.

 

[FxFormat]

Doesn't look to be structurally compromising at all, i'd just treat it so it doesn't spread, don't need to weld anything there. Our trucks lean to the left because of the weight of the gas tank, that area collects all sorts of crap and just eat away at the spot.

 

[aharlan001]

Anyone out there actually have this cut out and replaced? Mine looks better than the OP but if I went down there with a grinder and tried to remove all the crusty stuff I bet it would look about the same. I scored an 07 lx470 for a killer price and this is really the only problem with it. Fortunately I purchased the rig knowing the issue and it wasn't a surprise after purchase but it still bugs me and I'm thinking about having it fixed.

 

[neoworm]

OPs spot is a very common spot/design flaw by Toyota. I've seen spotless trucks develop a hole there, because gunk all gets trapped there with nowhere to go. Its the first spot to rust inside out on the 100.


This however is fk'ed. Not the same spot. Yours is either bust out the welder or part out. That frame is burnt toast.

I would hardly call it a "design flaw". lol Show me a box frame 4x4 that doesn't collect s*** somewhere.

 

[Mike NXP]

I've always been torn on this treatment but in the summer time I put a hose in these holes and flush out the crap and poke around in there to clear rocks / debris until clear water comes out. On the flipside now I may get some water trapped but I also removed all that crap that is building up.

@aharlan001 I had mine cut out and replaced after being rear ended with no issues to note.

 

[aharlan001]

I've always been torn on this treatment but in the summer time I put a hose in these holes and flush out the crap and poke around in there to clear rocks / debris until clear water comes out. On the flipside now I may get some water trapped but I also removed all that crap that is building up.

@aharlan001 I had mine cut out and replaced after being rear ended with no issues to note.

How much did it cost?

 

[Mike NXP]

Looks like the body shop receipt shows this part number - 5129060010
>>5129060010 - TOYOTA Frame Crossmember (Front, Rear). #9. Rear crossmember. Rear crossmember | Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL - https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/TOYOTA__/CROSSMEMBER--FRAME--REAR/3985102/5129060010.html

Labor was 3.5 hours.

Would still cost more but at that rate you can consider getting into an aftermarket bumper with a beefed up cross member, like dissent or BIO. In my situation I wanted to keep the OEM and I installed a BIO bumper without the cross member delete.

 

[aharlan001]

Looks like the body shop receipt shows this part number - 5129060010
>>5129060010 - TOYOTA Frame Crossmember (Front, Rear). #9. Rear crossmember. Rear crossmember | Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL - https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/TOYOTA__/CROSSMEMBER--FRAME--REAR/3985102/5129060010.html

Labor was 3.5 hours.

Would still cost more but at that rate you can consider getting into an aftermarket bumper with a beefed up cross member, like dissent or BIO. In my situation I wanted to keep the OEM and I installed a BIO bumper without the cross member delete.

Pretty sure that crossmember is further back the one I'm looking at and the one I think the OP is showing is part 5120760010 I think?

 

[Mike NXP]

Pretty sure that crossmember is further back the one I'm looking at and the one I think the OP is showing is part 5120760010 I think?

Shoot you're right, sorry about that. I was referring to the part furthest back on the frame, looks like you are chasing the one above and behind the rear axle