Yes and I think you might have to have the body of the frame to actually replace it. I've seen one rig for sale that had it repaired and others have talked of repair but there is little info out there. I've messaged two local welders for estimates. Will post back when I hear from them.
Rear Frame Crossmember Rust - cut or treat
- Thread starter crolison
- Start date
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I have three estimates. First is a repair shop referenced by another mudder for this repair Richmond Import Service. They have photos of this exact job done in the past. 1200$
Second is an automotive fabrication shop with minimal online reviews quite a few Facebook posts but no reviews. 700$
Last is a guy on Facebook who is a fabricator/welder who says he has done work like this in the past. Says he'll charge 50/hour says it should take 4-6 hours so 200-300$.
I'm torn, there is a huge spectrum here on price...
Second is an automotive fabrication shop with minimal online reviews quite a few Facebook posts but no reviews. 700$
Last is a guy on Facebook who is a fabricator/welder who says he has done work like this in the past. Says he'll charge 50/hour says it should take 4-6 hours so 200-300$.
I'm torn, there is a huge spectrum here on price...
hoser
SILVER Star
Go ahead and grind it down. If it looks about the same as the OP, you'll be fine. Just treat the area so that it doesn't get worse.
Unfortunately I'm in Virginia and I won't pass safety inspection with a hole if I keep picking at the area where the screwdriver goes through I'll have several holes...
hoser
SILVER Star
I certainly wouldn't change the entire crossmember. In your case, due to inspection, I'd cut out all the rust, plate it with new material (w/ drainage holes to match OE holes), grind the welds smooth.
Definitely not gong to change the entire crossmember. Cut out and replace its what I'm going for.
I doubt you'd fail inspection for that honestly, it looks somewhat factory if you paint it and it may be covered by spare (can't remember). Worth a shot anyway.
So having fabricator/welder from Facebook fix it tomorrow. Hope I don't regret this...
- Thread starter
- #29
Post some photos after
First bit out. There is hole in the frame rail too 
Is there a low spot in that section of the crossmember? I am guessing this happened from water sitting inside the frame for too long? Which makes me wonder how water could get up there to begin with, was it a flood vehicle or do you do alot of deep water crossings? There's no way driving in rain would splash water that high.
Yes there is a low spot in the crossmember because the fuel tank and driver weight make the left side sit lower. This is my second 100 with the same problem. You could barely tell there was any rust in the crossmember until you started picking at it. I think way more ppl have rust on the inside of the crossmember than realize it. Trouble is by the time you notice you will also have a hole in the frame rail. Beyond the rear shock housing there is just a little surface rust on the rest of the truck.
More progress
Pretty happy with the end product cost just under 400$. Way cheaper than other alternatives but a little risky hiring someone off Facebook who has no reviews. "Skip" did a great job and is a real nice guy if anyone in Central Virginia needs work done I reccomend him! The end results are almost identical to the photos sent to me by Richmond Import Service.
- Thread starter
- #36
What are you going to use to paint?
I am thinking of having this work done in the spring.
I used rustbullet on what I could get to then por15 underbody spray paint as a top coat on the rustbullet and everywhere I couldn't get to with the brush. I used one of those nozzles with a hose you see that come in the packs of fluid film to spray paint inside the crossmember.
So I have the same problem. I was under the impression that there was some surface rust. This has only been a south east fj100. I’m torn I just joined the club but I’m afraid I wiffed (got a good deal). Should I just patch it or replace the whole crossmember? Or just trade it in for a new 4Runner. Real disappointed.
Wah00
SILVER Star
Does this happen less with AHC trucks since they theoretically level the ride?
From videos it seems like both suffer. I am having a locale welder repair it. He is going to sand off the rest of the surface rust too and I’ll treat it myself. I plan on getting the Slee body that also replaces the transmission cross member. Should be squared away for around 1000-1250. I’ll post pics of the repair.
