Rear diff lock not engaging

[LandCruiserPhil]

Ordered the diff lock today from CDan. It was the only one in stk. Price was much better than here in Canada (US$713.00 vs CAN$1296.00). Hopefully it will arrive this Friday.

Consider extending the actuators breather line to eliminate another popular method of contamination. At a minimum make sure the breather vent cap is in place.

 

[canman]

Well after almost one year to the day after I ordered my new diff lock actuator, I finally got around to installing it on Monday. I painted the bare aluminum hsg with some Eastwood black chassis paint and ordered new mtg bolts from the dealer. I must say that the cast aluminum hsg was not completely true to the mating surface on the axle hsg. I checked for possible interference and there didn't appear to be any. So I was very careful when it came to bolting it up. It took me several trial attempts to finally get it to sit reasonably flush and to also figure out how to align the bolt through hole in the "push" rod with that of the mating threaded hole in the fork. At first the push rod was not extendeing as it should. I could hear the motor working, but there was no movement on the push rod. I then noticed that there was some red electrical type tape wrapped around the push rod which I thought was preventing it from going into the fork. After removing the tape, the push rod would still not move. WTF. After what seemed like another hour of futzing around with my daughter constantly engaging and disengaging the diff lock switch, the push rod finally moved. I still don't know what the problem was, but I'm starting to think that with aluminum hsg being slightly out of spec with respect to how it was mating with the axle, the push rod was not quite aligned with the bore in the axle hsg. Once I was satisfied that everything was working as it should, I applied some Permatex gasket maker and buttoned everything up. I'm happy to report that today I got a chance to engage my rear diff lock, and for the first time in over two years without one - success

 

[daveymg]

I finally got both the upper bolts off. One came off with some heat, but the upper rear one was too rounded, so I ground off the head. In the process, I was tapping on the hsg, and now the upper right ear is cracked. However, the hsg does not want to come out of the axle. It feels like there is some kind of spring force holding it in. Any idea was I need to do to release it from the hsg?

Hi canman, I 'm trying to remove the top rear bolt of the rear locker actuator on my LC80 but it's head is rounded. I found your post where you had the same problem and managed to grind off the bolt head. Just wondering if you could share how you managed to attack it? I've tried to get a dremel cutting disk in there but there's not enough room to maneuver it. What sort of tool did you use?

Appreciate any help.

 

[LINUS]

What all sockets tools do you have to work from?

Can you pound a 6pt ASE socket on it (almost wonder if they even sell them there, TBH) - or shape the hex to any degree using a HSS tip on that dremel to help in pounding a 6pt metric socket on?

Impressive lurking BTW....3 posts/7.5yrs

 

[daveymg]

I'm crawling under the car to get at it so there's no room to swing much in the way of a hammer and see what I'm doing at the same time. A friend has offered to let me use his pit so I'll have better access and will try tapping it with a cold chisel and see if I can get it to turn. Thanks for your tips, what's ASE or did you mean SAE?

Yeah, I'm a man of few words.

 

[subzali]

Might weld a nut to it if you have access to a welder. Then you have a new nut to put a wrench on.

 

[daveymg]

Possibly, but the tight space and my (lack of) welding skills are a bad combo.

Might weld a nut to it if you have access to a welder. Then you have a new nut to put a wrench on.

 

[subzali]

How about drilling the bolt head off? Then attacking the stud once you get the locker off and have more room?

 

[ajax1]

Get you set of these they work great

 

[Bloomer]

Chasing down some gremlins. I did search and it took me in the direction of replacing the 4 wheel drive computer, which I did and still have the same issue. Very similar to the OP, my CDL works, everything is now lighting up, rear diff lock blinks with no clicking sound from 4 wheel drive computer. Front diff lock engages almost immediately with clicking sound from the 4 wheel drive computer. Pretty much the same situation whether I use the new 4 wheel drive computer or the old, although there were times when I didn’t get the “clicking” sound even with the front diff lock with the new 4 wheel drive computer. Put the old one back in and will be calling dealer tomorrow about getting another new one.

Any ideas on where to go from here on trouble shooting? Could the rear actuator be the culprit keeping the 4 wheel drive computer from engaging?

(1995 80 wirh 262,000 miles)

TIA

 

[Bloomer]

^^^ Follow up from prior post^^^
Called dealer and they said the computer had to be programmed. Set up appointment with dealer and spoke with a master tech. He said no, it is a plug and play module. Have a new one in route as a warranty replacement.

Given the symptons in prior post, any suggestions on what else to check? Could there be an issue with the actuator if I’m not hearing the clicking sound from the 4 wheel drive computer when rotating the diff switch to the rear diff lock (but do hear it and have a functional front diff lock)? I’ll mention this, when the issue first surfaced, it was sporadic, sometimes the rear would lock and others it would sliip in and out of being locked. Now, no clicking sound and does not lock up.

 

[Bloomer]

^^^Resolution^^^ Replaced rear diff actuator and issue is fixed.