Hello-I have an issue. My rear diff fill bolt is absolutely stuck. I've tried just about everything so now I'm wondering if anyone has filled through the drain bolt hole?? Maybe with a hand pump? I have a rubber plug with a hole in it but I'm not sure about air pressure issues while filling?? Air pressure as in pressure building up from a pump and not allowing fluid in. Any thoughts?
Rear Diff fill (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter UncleLDP
- Start date
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Are you saying that you drained it before opening the fill plug? If so, live and learn from that one.
Haven't heard of filling it from the drain and you're going to have to deal with it at some point, so I'd just do it now. Some of these can be pretty darn stubborn. First, never use a 12 point socket, only a six. I've had some luck with a six point on one of those hit-with-a-hammer impacts. Heat can be your friend too. And others have had to weld a nut to it to get a new place to put a wrench on.
I've since replaced all mine with the hex-head plugs. I find them less prone to being damaged by rocks or being rounded off.
Not matter what, good luck.
Haven't heard of filling it from the drain and you're going to have to deal with it at some point, so I'd just do it now. Some of these can be pretty darn stubborn. First, never use a 12 point socket, only a six. I've had some luck with a six point on one of those hit-with-a-hammer impacts. Heat can be your friend too. And others have had to weld a nut to it to get a new place to put a wrench on.
I've since replaced all mine with the hex-head plugs. I find them less prone to being damaged by rocks or being rounded off.
Not matter what, good luck.
The vent should prevent pressure issues, if you've kept it clean.
I'd be more concerned about getting the correct amount in, and then being able to inspect it latter.
Like Cruzerman says, don't use a 12 point anything on it.
A Light hammer (less than 20oz) striking a brass bar placed against the head of the bolt and give it a few raps to break the corrosion free. Don't beat on it like you hate it, you might bend the pumpkin, just looking for some good solid vibrations. (there's an oxymoron, "solid vibrations")
I'd be more concerned about getting the correct amount in, and then being able to inspect it latter.
Like Cruzerman says, don't use a 12 point anything on it.
A Light hammer (less than 20oz) striking a brass bar placed against the head of the bolt and give it a few raps to break the corrosion free. Don't beat on it like you hate it, you might bend the pumpkin, just looking for some good solid vibrations. (there's an oxymoron, "solid vibrations")
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
Of course I didn't. I've tried all the above except for welding. Thats next but thought I would ask about a one way valve or any other options. I know that some systems such as the tranny on Audis only allow for a plunger or force fill from the drain plug. Then you gotta be quick to get the bolt on.
- Thread starter
- #5
Great, that's what I was hoping for. I guess I'll see if my vent is working or not. thanks
Talking about the drain plug here, but I think the same may apply: I've had to drive mine off with a chisel before. I also had to clear out a lot of the "protector ring" that got smooshed into the plug by being dragged over some rocks (I guess the fill plug doesn't have a ring).
You'll also notice that your 6-point socket has a slope going into where the socket meets the bolt to help the socket easily slide onto the bolt. If you grind the socket flat to remove that slope, you will have more of the socket directly engaging with the bolt to minimize the risk of rounding the bolt and maybe apply a little more torque.
If that doesn't make sense, I can hunt for a picture.
or turn the truck upside down to fill from the drain plug.
You'll also notice that your 6-point socket has a slope going into where the socket meets the bolt to help the socket easily slide onto the bolt. If you grind the socket flat to remove that slope, you will have more of the socket directly engaging with the bolt to minimize the risk of rounding the bolt and maybe apply a little more torque.
If that doesn't make sense, I can hunt for a picture.
or turn the truck upside down to fill from the drain plug.
The 24mm fill plugs on mine were an absolute PITA.
What finally worked was a $40 harbor freight 1/2" electric impact wrench and a 24mm six sided impact socket, hammered into place over the fubar'd threads from previous attempts. Zipped right off.
What finally worked was a $40 harbor freight 1/2" electric impact wrench and a 24mm six sided impact socket, hammered into place over the fubar'd threads from previous attempts. Zipped right off.
Heat and a long cheater bar for leverage with 6-point socket will do it.
Without turning the truck upside down, you could possible fill from the sides with the axle removed.
Without turning the truck upside down, you could possible fill from the sides with the axle removed.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks guys-Upside truck may be my best option. Previous owner completely rounded the bolt. I can tell that person didn't own a Metric socket at all.
The above is basically what worked on mine. I used a file to square things up to let the socket fit tight. I also used Heckraiser's tip about grinding down the socket face so that it would fit more tightly.
After all that, I let the impact bounce on it _tightening_ it just a little, then reverse hammering finally brought it off.
AussieHJCruza
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I've found 15/16 a bit tighter fit than a 24mm, if it's not too far gone for that.
Had good success with acetone/ATF mix as a penetrating oil, plus heat (Not too hot) and then hammering on something like this and a 3 foot breaker bar, most recently on exhaust studs/nuts but probably still applicable.
transquip.com.au
Had good success with acetone/ATF mix as a penetrating oil, plus heat (Not too hot) and then hammering on something like this and a 3 foot breaker bar, most recently on exhaust studs/nuts but probably still applicable.
Kincrome K15001 Bolt Extractor Socket Set 9 Piece Imperial
Kincrome K15001 Bolt Extractor Socket Set 9 Piece Imperial
transquip.com.au
