Really Strange Vibration!

Discussion in '95-older Toyota Truck Tech' started by aircrew, Feb 15, 2009.

  1. aircrew

    aircrew Beer sipping, Toque wearing northern brother

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    Hello Everybody,

    In my 89 hilux ln106 I have had a strange vibration latley....

    See if this makes any sense to you guys:

    -Happens only in fifth.
    -At 2400 - 2500 RPM, Tried shifting into fourth and driving at the same speed... no dice.
    -No other RPM or Speed.
    -Does not happen in Neutral.
    -Sounds like it comes through the shifter, and seat, but not particularly one side, both and from the rear of the truck.
    -About 3-5 beats per second, does not sound like a tire.
    -quite loud...
    -Checked all U joints, one is a tad loose, but I mean very small, maybe a 64th of an inch movement. All others are good.
    -Steady bearing moves up and down about a 1/4 of an inch, very sloppy.
    -My rear Spline pukes grease... Grease it daily and still takes like 10 good pumps of grease.
    -Output Plate has no play, tightened that about 5 months ago.
    -And last but not least, sound goes away if I let off the accelerator pedal, and comes back when I push the accelerator again. Driving me nuts, and I don't want to damage anything.

    -Rear Diff, Front Diff, Transfer Case, Tranny all have correct amount of oil.
    -Joints are grease.
    -no loose bolts....

    Does it matter how the rear drive shafts are bolted to the tranny and diff? Are they supposed to be offset?

    Think it might be the Steady Bearing????


    Thanks

    Brodie
     
  2. aircrew

    aircrew Beer sipping, Toque wearing northern brother

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    Nothing?
     
  3. 2ndGenToyotaFan

    2ndGenToyotaFan Ice-Bound Moderator

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    It's complicated....
    If you can't reproduce the vibration in any gear other than 5th, then I bet you have a trans issue.... Try driving around it 5th in low range, if the noise is still there it's 99% the trans, as the drive shafts/differentials would be going much slower...
     
  4. aircrew

    aircrew Beer sipping, Toque wearing northern brother

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    Ok, so I did not get a chance to try driving in 4wd low. Because I yanked the centre bearing and drive shaft halves right off. Drove up to the same speed in 4wd with fronts locked, and the vibration is not present. Going to get a new centre bearing and perhaps 2 new u joints.
     
  5. 2ndGenToyotaFan

    2ndGenToyotaFan Ice-Bound Moderator

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    It's complicated....
    Or you could do that... :D I wonder if 5th gear provided the right counter vibration to bring out the problem or something along those lines.... Let us know how the repairs go! :cheers:
     
  6. Turbo Turtle

    Turbo Turtle

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    I got few vibes out of my center carrier bearing going out. I'm with 2nd Gen on the vibe thing. If theirs any noticeable wear in a U-joint, it does need to be replaced. That is the first part I'd replace. The center carrier is a small chunk of change these days. I forgot what I paid just months ago for mine. If it feels smooth and spins freely it'll probably be good for some time to come.
    My three cents worth, :cool:

    Bob
     
  7. Family 40's

    Family 40's

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    Just my .02 I am having issues with vibration in my 89 toyota p/u w/22re in 4th and 5th at about 40 miles and hour and above. I realized I had a problem at my shop when I lifted up the rear wheels I grabbed my rear drive line and I had a 1/4 inch of play in the Pinion bearing and about the same amount of play in the carrier bearing. This is the play and vibration I felt above 40. I am not sure if this is the same vibration you feel but if you have access to a shop maybe this is something you can look into.

    Another question I may ask is there any leak from the pinion seal? My current situation is my pinion seal is leaking horribly on top of the play in the pinion bearing and carrier baring.

    Not sure if this is your situation but something to consider.

    Remember you do have to lift the rear end in order to check the play in the pinion and carrier bearing. But leaking should be pretty easy to identify by gear oil all over the underside and tailgate of your truck.
     
  8. WristPin

    WristPin

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    when you assemble a drive shaft the ends of the yoke must be lined up exactly.

    like this

    ]-----[

    i guess if that awesome drawing makes sense....
     
  9. deneric

    deneric

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    I have had a similar problem for quite a while now. 93 xtra cab. Now there is a pinging in the driveline. A local transmission shop said the u-joints are bad. There are 3 in the rear driveline and they told me it would be $500 to change them all out because they are not held in with clips but sort of "beaten" in as opposed to pressed, making it a pain. Does this sound right to anyone? The truck has 206,000 and I bought it with 76,000 many years ago. I alwasy grease everything at least once a month. Has anyone changed out the u-joints themselves, or are they a pain in the a$$?
     
  10. PGH854runner

    PGH854runner

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    the ujoints are like $20 apiece and you can do it yourself.....even if u have to buy a ball joint press youll be way ahead than spendin $500
     
  11. 2ndGenToyotaFan

    2ndGenToyotaFan Ice-Bound Moderator

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    It's complicated....
    1: OEM U joints are closer to $50-60 and are worth the money!

    2: Never go back to that shop.... they are not "Beaten" in.... WTF? They are held in with C clips... Anyone with eyes could have figured it out....

    3: It's a bit of a pain... a press and a few extra hands helps out a lot!

    Anyone with tips for changing u joints is welcome to chime in right now... :cheers:
     
  12. Bogo

    Bogo FOOF

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    A good c-frame press is very handy for u-joint work.
     
  13. nat88toy

    nat88toy

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    had a similar problem a few years ago, tracked it down to a worn t-case mount replaced it with a v6 mount and vibe went away
     
  14. WristPin

    WristPin

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    i use a astro tools ball joint press for ujoints.

    makes it really easy.

    OE joints are MUCH better than napa crap
     
  15. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    Second the OEM U Joints. All others are crap and will fail way before the OEM.

    Second the stay away from that shop. I take my drive shaft off and take it to my local shop. They charge 50.00 to replace U joints. Extremely simple process if you have a press-which they do.
     
  16. toyminator

    toyminator

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    You can change the u-joints with a vice and the correct size sockets to push the bearings in. a third or fourth hand will help too. :cheers:
     
  17. "N8"

    "N8"

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    x 2 with what wristy said make sure your drive shaft yokes are in phase.
     
  18. Family 40's

    Family 40's

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    Yeah I replaced my U-joints those quotes are correct. I also disassembled the rear end and replaced the pinion bearing, since it had play in it and put an aussie locker in. I also replaced the hanger bearing on the drive shaft it too had about 1/4 inch of play. This was extremely easy besides the 150 dollar bearing and that was with my discount on parts. This bearing was extremely easy to put on. Funny thing too I was quoted 45 dollars to put that bearing on with a carry in drive line, and over 200 for them to do the work. It ended up taking me all of about 30 minutes to do by myself. If you grab your rear drive line and it moves in the middle of it this bearing is most likely out. disassemble your driveline pull off the bearing from the middle and push the new one on and whala! With your driveline off might as well shove some grease in all the zurks. U joints are not too hard my advise for anything Take your time and be patient. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2009
  19. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    10X on the oem u-joints.
    My 4runner has 150K on the clock and it has a slight vibration at around 60mph. As far as I know it has the factory joints thru-out, but I bought it used with 135K on the clock.
    Looking forward to days when I have more time to figure out this problem.
     
  20. morganism

    morganism SunkCostFallacy

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    Balance

    find a local speedo shop that adjusts gearing. have them balance your drivelines. they will also tell you if you need any joints or center. mark with whiteout, so you dont mess up the reinstalling again. go around front and check your lower ball joint bolts too.
     
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