Real time tierod removal help...please? (1 Viewer)

[Skillet]

Trying to get the tierod and draglink off and, after removing the crown nuts, I pb blasted all ends yesterday.

I have been tapping and banging with a picklefork for a half hour.

All I have succeeded in doing is ruining the old boots.

Any trick here before I break something?

Thanks!

 

[Tools R Us]

Banging harder, it takes a hard hit, big hammer makes it easier.

 

[-Spike-]

I have very good luck heating the female part when dealing with tie rods, ball joints, and that sort. MAPP gas works great for me. I try heat the joint as fast as I can to inhibit heat transfer, and to cool the tie rod end as quickly as possible to prevent damage.

-Spike

 

[cruiserdan]

Get a tie rod end puller. You will thank yourself later.

 

[Skillet]

Get a tie rod end puller. You will thank yourself later.

Is this what is referred to in the FSM as the SST?
Where is a good place to grab one of those?

 

[Rich]

If you don't mind spending money you can get this: http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=8519

Otherwise you can get just this, which is included in the set above: http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=8550

I have used the latter on the steering dampner. Haven't tried on anything else. Worked fine. I've not bought anything from that website, its just the first one that came back with the otc tools on google.

 

[KliersLC]

If you already ruined the boots, have at em with the pickle fork and buy the SST next time....

Dan

 

[sjcruiser]

Is this what is referred to in the FSM as the SST?
Where is a good place to grab one of those?

Do you have an Autozone or Kragen close by? About ten bucks and worked for me.

 

[Skillet]

Do you have an Autozone or Kragen close by? About ten bucks and worked for me.

You kiddin' me?
I am in South Santa Cruz County, there are more Kragens and Autozones here than I can shake a stick at.

Since I spent another 45 minutes banging on that fawking thing, much to the dismay of my neighbors, and to no avail, I will be headed there at 0800.

Any pics of the one you bought?

Thanks for all the advise.

 

[flintknapper]

Get a tie rod end puller. You will thank yourself later.

Yup!


If you're going to use the hammer method then loosen the tie rod end by striking one side of the steering knuckle while using a second hammer (of equal or greater weight) to "back up" the other side. With tapered tie rod ends, this is usually sufficient to cause them to drop loose.

IMO, simply banging straight up or down on the TRE is the wrong way to do it (but if you must, back it up with something) and it will go a lot smoother.

Good luck.

 

[Rookie2]

I am in South Santa Cruz County, there are more Kragens and Autozones here than I can shake a stick at.

Since I spent another 45 minutes banging on that fawking thing, much to the dismay of my neighbors, and to no avail, I will be headed there at 0800.

Try using the one in their loan-a-tool program. It's basically a U-shaped tool with small returns on the ends that cup on the arm, then there's a pointed bolt that runs through the middle that you tighten to pop the TRE out. Be ready for the BIG BANG.

:Beer:
Rookie2

 

[Skillet]

Try using the one in their loan-a-tool program. It's basically a U-shaped tool with small returns on the ends that cup on the arm, then there's a pointed bolt that runs through the middle that you tighten to pop the TRE out. Be ready for the BIG BANG.

:Beer:
Rookie2

Actually, I bought one for 13 bucks and a pitman puller for 15.

Throw them in my tool kit and call it good for 28 bones.

They worked great btw.

Thanks for the input.

 

[tiorio]

I have both the snap-on pullers, a massive pickle fork and a damn-big hammer. Guess what? It took me darn near 45 minutes and a lot of heat to get one of my tie-rods to break. They can REALLY stick, like no other car I've worked on...

Just my $.02, YMMV...

 

[Grench]

Are these any good?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882

 

[e9999]

Are these any good?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882

wow! didn't know they had those. amazing!

these are copies of the good tools (OTC etc). The center one or possibly the top left one (a bit big) are what you want for the TRE... Won't damage the boot and takes all of 10 secs to pop them off.

You can get the center one for about $30 from NAPA vs quite a bit more from OTC, Matco etc. Probably all you need for the 80 unless you have to deal with the pitman arm.

the top left alone at most places is about $80 or so. So quite the deal (assuming the steel is not the usual HF soft)...

 

[Tools R Us]

Are these any good?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882

I have the one pictured in the lower left, run it with a 3/8" impact, knocked the ends loose without issue on my junk.

 

[Swowie]

I used the BFH method and it took me about 5 minutes a tie rod end. You strike the arm on the side near the tie rod hole really hard. i was amazed how hard a hit it took. Once I got the feel for it it went pretty quickly. i used a 2 lb baby sledge or a 24 oz ball peen to do it. Good luck. The pullers look neat but I was in a hurry and $$$ were tight. The beat it method worked good for me.

 

[wingman358]

I have very good luck heating the female part when dealing with tie rods, ball joints, and that sort. MAPP gas works great for me. I try heat the joint as fast as I can to inhibit heat transfer, and to cool the tie rod end as quickly as possible to prevent damage.

-Spike

Just be aware that any rapid heating/cooling you do may make the metal brittle and more prone to fracturing. I would recommend if you're going to do any heating, let it cool naturally (don't dump the piece in a bucket of water or something).