Rank Amateur Painting HJ60: ISO Advisors

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Not yet. If it turns out that the gate is unsaveable, the classifieds will be my first attempt at a replacement.
 
I'm not trained but I have done a bit of body work with filler/bondo.

Tools to have IMO:

-a few different sizes of spreaders 6", 4", 2"
-a body work rasp 12" - 16" long
-a rasp 4"
-a long sanding block
-a short flat and a curved sanding block

I usually use a piece of cardboard to mix it on, but a piece of plastic like you roll out your pie dough on would work well. A good rasp will cut down the excess in short order. I don't like to use sandpaper until the final coat because it tends to clog up fast if the filler is not fully cured. The rasp on the other hand can be used once it is hard. Clean the rasp with a wire brush.

Before applying a coat of filler use an air gun to clean the surface.

I'm sure others will chime in with other or better advice.

Good on you for doing your own work. It's very satisfying isn't it?
 
Piecing the roof back together. I started stuffing a little soldering blanket in the interior gap between the frame and the roof to keep the welding sparks from coming in and catching the roof insulation on fire. I also hired a fire watcher to help me keep an eye on things.

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Is that your shop or are you renting the space? Looks big, and clean.

And your kid looks kind of pissed :lol:
 
Very impressive job so far. Inspired to do some more work on my 80, zero experience and learning as I go also.
 
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Schools out and I've been back at it. All metal work is done and Bondo smoothed over the top of it. I'm still really nervous about painting, so I'm pretty good at finding little diversions to fiddle with instead. I pulled the rear bumper and too bar off and decided to get them sand blasted and powder coated to match the wheels. When I pulled them I decided to POR15 as much of the chassis as possible. As usual, I'm now covered in POR15. Monstaliner for the interior floor is in the mail.
 
I need some advice about primer and paint. I've read the Paint 101 sticky 150 times, and it gives me an anxiety attack. I don't know why this part of it seems so complicated to me, but it does, so I really appreciate the help I'm getting from all of you.

  • CONFUSION 1. What kind of primer? I have some paint, some bare metal and some Bondo. I'm NOT stripping the whole thing down to bare metal, and I'm not trying for a car-show finish. But I do want a job that looks nice and will last and that's possible for someone with my skills, budget, tools, and shop space. So:
    • Do I use the same kind of primer on the bondo and the bare metal and the painted parts? What kind?
    • Do I primer the whole truck or just the bondo/bare metal parts? Or do I do the bondo/bare metal patches, sand them even with the existing paint, and then primer the whole thing? How many coats?
  • CONFUSION 2: what order do I do seam sealer in? I need to put some back on the rain gutters where I did A LOT of work, so it's all bare metal. Do I put the seam sealer on top of bare metal? Primer? Paint?
  • CONFUSION 3: How much should I worry about making a paint booth? I've got a big shop I'm working in, which also has a whole bunch of other stuff in it, like a camper and a boat and a bunch of saddles. I could pull all that junk out, put a tarp on the floor and just paint in the middle of the shop or I could try to frame and sheet in some kind of little spray booth in the corner the cruiser's in. What do you think?
  • CONFUSION 4: is a top feed paint gun necessary. I have two paint guns with the can on the bottom, but everyone I see on youtube is using a top feed can. I used the bottom feed gun on my horse trailer and it turned out ok, but there were a few times when the paint built up on the nozzle and then it spattered. I don't know if this was the gun's fault or my fault.
Thanks a bunch for your help!

Sarah
 
I'm waiting for the Monstaliner to show up in the mail, so to pass the time, I took the rear slider windows apart. I took them out a long time ago, which was so easy, I'm not sure why they didn't fall out while I was driving down the road. Anyway, here's a rundown:

First, I took the four little screws out around the center pillar thingy:
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Then I had my tough 11 year old help me flex the frame out enough to pop the inner piece of glass out. Then I had to pull all of the rotten rubber seal out and gently take the center pillar out so I could get the outer glass out.

Then I scraped about 5 pounds of butyl off of each frame and cleaned them up with some MEK. Then I hosed them out and cleaned the inside with a tooth brush and some Simple Green.

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I scuffed them up with sand paper and let the tough 11 year old primer them (she's really good with spray paint; should that worry me?)
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Then I sanded and reprimed and put a few coats of Duplicolor "Dark Shadow Gray."

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I have been able to find all the seals and will post more about the sources for that when I put them back together. I have NOT been able to find a source for these little rubber wedgie things and I need to get a few more, because some were missing. If anyone knows where I can get them or what they're even called, I'd appreciate the info.
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I put the windows back together. The source for the inner seal was: http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1980-87 FJ60 & BJ60.htm, the "Bailey Channel Rear Sliding Window" item. They were quick, considering their on the bottom of the planet, and the price was good. The seal was very high quality and fit well, but my fingers are raw and bruised from pinching it in there. The felted sliding door seal that goes in the metal center post, I just went down to the local window store and they had some that they gave me for free. The outer "D-Style" weather stripping I found on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053G14TM/?tag=ihco-20. I haven't put them back in yet, but I was planning on using 3M Gorrilla Snot adhesive gasket goop to do that rather than the original butyl, because the butyl was a mess, the windows were practically falling out when I removed them, and some other Mudders recommended that.
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Today I Monstalinered the interior floor. It looks good, but it was more of a pain than I was anticipating. It's about 90 degrees outside, but cooler in the barn where I was working. Anyway the Monstaliner was drying in the pan and the bucket before I could get it rolled on, especially for the second coat, so I had to pick goobers out as I went, which was stressful and frustrating. I was worried that it would mess up the texture, but I was careful to roll over where I de-goobered, and it looks pretty good. One gallon was just enough to do 2 coats. (There was quite a bit of waste because of the premature drying.) I also don't think the custom color match was perfect. I'm glad I figured this out before I tried to do the rocker panels where it would really show, so now I have to think about how to do the rockers.

Before:



After:
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LOOKING GOOD!

Hi ,any luck finding out the name of the rubber part on the window frame? I think its called "packing" and the part number is 62229-95J00
It is common to other landcruisers like the 73/74 series, and other Toyotas like the Coaster bus,Hiace van and the Hilux with the FRP roof.
Basically these all have a sliding rear window.
The Hilux is the same as a 4runner and the 84 model in Australia appears to have the same part number as the 60 series.
So ,fingers crossed,it maybe the same as the US model and available from the dealer.
The EPC shows it as being the same as the 83-87 model 4runner available in the USA.

Send me a PM if you have any problems or queries. I dont venture down here very often and may miss any posts after this.
 
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