Radiator Leak (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jul 15, 2020
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Hello! I was doing a flush on my ‘92 today and noticed a leak on top of my radiator. Saw pin hole bubbles and it’s leaking slowly. Is this worth fixing/sealing or should I just get a new one?

Btw, I’m a newbie home mechanic... no experience on radiator replacement or wrenching in general. Excited to learn! :)

Thanks!

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Joined
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92's came with a Copper/Brass radiator. The picture indicates it still has a Copper/Brass radiator which is leaking at the solder joint. Good radiator repair shops are hard to find but a good one should in theory be able to repair or re-core the radiator. So repair is an option but there are inexpensive aftermarket options as well. A search for radiator in this forum will give you plenty to read.

@Rusty Marlin offered great advice. If you are draining the coolant system it is a perfect time to change the heater valve on the firewall (if it is original) along with all the heater hoses and radiator hoses. Heater valve if it is tan in color and the PHH are musts!

IIRC the 93 thru 97 radiators are interchangeable. General consensus on this forum is to avoid the CSF 2517 Copper/Brass radiator. They are built well but heat soak easy on hill climbs.
 
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That doesn't look like nearly enough rubber hoses. Hopefully somebody with 3FE experience will chime in.
If this were a 1FZ, I'd tell you that's a nice start... but woefully short of all that's needed to change out ALL the coolant hoses.
 
Joined
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92's came with a Copper/Brass radiator. The picture indicates it still has a Copper/Brass radiator which is leaking at the solder joint. Good radiator repair shops are hard to find but a good one should in theory be able to repair or re-core the radiator. So repair is an option but there are inexpensive aftermarket options as well. A search for radiator in this forum will give you plenty to read.

@Rusty Marlin offered great advice. If you are draining the coolant system it is a perfect time to change the heater valve on the firewall (if it is original) along with all the heater hoses and radiator hoses. Heater valve if it is tan in color and the PHH are musts!

IIRC the 93 thru 97 radiators are interchangeable. General consensus on this forum is to avoid the CSF 2517 Copper/Brass radiator. They are built well but heat soak easy on hill climbs.
Went camping to Yosemite last month... I did notice temperature spikes on hill climbs. Especially thru the Tejon Pass.
 
Joined
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Messages
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That doesn't look like nearly enough rubber hoses. Hopefully somebody with 3FE experience will chime in.
If this were a 1FZ, I'd tell you that's a nice start... but woefully short of all that's needed to change out ALL the coolant hoses.
Thank you! I’m also changing the thermostat and the little hoses on the thermostat housing.

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Irish Reiver

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Make sure you test the thermosat before giving it the OK.. i recently did a full PM on my 1FZ and it was the 4th OEM thermosat that i tested that actually opened close to the stated temperature (85°C). Two of them didn't open until they reached the mid-90's (Celsius). I was surprised at how wide the tolerance was on OEM products.
 
Joined
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Make sure you test the thermosat before giving it the OK.. i recently did a full PM on my 1FZ and it was the 4th OEM thermosat that i tested that actually opened close to the stated temperature (85°C). Two of them didn't open until they reached the mid-90's (Celsius). I was surprised at how wide the tolerance was on OEM products.
Wow! Imagine taking everything off again because the thermostat is faulty. Thank you for the tip. 🙏
 
Joined
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@Irish Reiver that is great advice. I always boil mine with a thermometer when replacing them. I check the temp at which they start to open as well as the temp they are wide open. I have found Toyota's stats can have up 8 or 9 degrees F different opening temps and up to 5 degrees different wide open temps. I have tested 60, 80 (FZE) and 100 series OEM stats as well as Gates stats. Toyota's wide open temps are much more true than Gates (up to 9 degrees off of the rating).

I use OEM for mine. Typically buy three. Choose the one that starts to open at the lowest temp and is wide open before the rated temp.

If a stat is rated at 185 degrees and will not open completely until it is at 185 degrees the coolant temp will go above 185 for a short period due to Physics.

I thought I was the only one that had Nitrile gloves blow out!🥴
 

Bambusiero

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Chandler, AZ
Hmm...Is this the time to put it to the test? - the single claimed advantage of all metal/brass radiators - they can be repaired!
Personally - after 2 years over overheating frustration - I abandoned my "perfectly good" CSF 2517 Copper/Brass & replaced with the cheap/disposable plastic tanked TYC1918 - been fine ever since, here in low desert Arizona.
 

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