Quick engine starting question

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wchevron

wchevron

Joined
Oct 4, 2023
Threads
28
Messages
236
Location
Rhode Island
Working on cleaning up some wiring from the previous owner. There is a wired kill switch in the engine compartment. Pretty sure I figured out how to disconnect it and get the wires back to where they are supposed to go. Also pulled out the gauge cluster to re-paint the gauge dials. Do I need the gauge cluster connected (wasn't sure on needing the ampmeter wired) to get the engine to start? Wanted to disconnect the kill switch and re-wire, then make sure the engine starts before I rip out all the kill switch wiring. I don't have a key for the kill switch so haven't been able to use it, if it works, and would rather just get rid of it.
 
A photo would be helpful. If I were to wire a kill switch in the engine compartment, I would trace the Bat wire going to the distributor back into the wire harness, then cut it connect both ends to the kill switch. Trace the wires, find the splice, and reconnect. This shouldn't affect anything else.

Yes. You will need the amp meter connected to start the vehicle.
 
Asking for help year/model/market gets a better answer sooner.

Its a tractor I can start it with a wire and a screwdriver. I bought my current engine sitting on the ground. A coffee can for a gas tank and a battery - it fired right up enough to hear it run.
 
Thanks all. Connecting the 2 ampmeter wires will work for now. It's a 1977 with a 2F. From the kill switch there are 3 wires. One goes to the + on the battery. One is spliced into a red wire going to the distributor (I don't think the red wire is original). 3rd wire is spliced into a 12 or 10ga black/yellow wire coming from the wiring bundle on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I couldn't find the other side of the black/yellow wire, which was confusing me. And I wasn't sure what the red distributor wire should be connecting to.
Had one of the guys at work test the wiring with some sort of electrical clamp meter he had. After checking all the wiring, he figured the black/yellow should connect to the red wire going to the distributor. Was going to try that out tomorrow and make sure the truck will start. If so, I can pull out the kill switch wiring and splice a new section of black/yellow to the alternator.
 
wchevron said:
Thanks all. Connecting the 2 ampmeter wires will work for now. It's a 1977 with a 2F. From the kill switch there are 3 wires. One goes to the + on the battery. One is spliced into a red wire going to the distributor (I don't think the red wire is original). 3rd wire is spliced into a 12 or 10ga black/yellow wire coming from the wiring bundle on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I couldn't find the other side of the black/yellow wire, which was confusing me. And I wasn't sure what the red distributor wire should be connecting to.
Had one of the guys at work test the wiring with some sort of electrical clamp meter he had. After checking all the wiring, he figured the black/yellow should connect to the red wire going to the distributor. Was going to try that out tomorrow and make sure the truck will start. If so, I can pull out the kill switch wiring and splice a new section of black/yellow to the alternator.
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The Bat+ wire at the distributor is supposed to be powered with ignition power (12v+ when the key in run position). If that is what the black/yellow wire is, you are golden.
 
Swapped and wires, joined to 2 ampmeter wires together and... nothing. Realized I forgot to put the battery cables back on. :doh: Tried again and nothing. Ended up connecting the 2 amp wires to the ampmeter and success. Just had the two wires initially touching so maybe that was the issue? Or maybe they needed to go through the amp meter? Either way, was able to rip out the kill switch wiring. Discovered the wire to the temp gauge, at the thermostat is cut. Somehow my temp gauge is working. Must be another sensor somewhere. Also figured out why the oil pressure gauge didn't work until I ran a new wire to it. The wire the PO ran was just coiled up under the dash not connected. :bang:
 
The ammeter wires have to be more than touching each other. The vehicle gets all its power thru them. Use a butt connector and shrink rap tubing if you want it permanent or at a nut and bolt then heavily insulate them.
 
wchevron said:
Discovered the wire to the temp gauge, at the thermostat is cut. Somehow my temp gauge is working. Must be another sensor somewhere.
Click to expand...
The original sender for the stock temp gauge is probably in the aft end of the cylinder head on the driver's side.
 
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