Quick disconnect front sway bar bracket (2 Viewers)

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Finished all the painting. It was a very labor and time consuming. I couldn't paint the whole bracket at once because the wet paint got stuck to the nylon sheet it was on. So I have to paint only half bracket at a time.
So two coats of primer and two coats of paint and only half bracket at a time took over a week to do.

The last coat of paint is pretty thick and it has been raining for two days. So I don't believe it will get really hard in my basement. I have to wait for a sunny day for it to get baked in the sun.

You may think this is crazy but I actually can't take a short cut here. If I wrap it for shipping with the paint is half wet, it will stick to the wrap paper. Anyway, if it is sonny tomorrow I will take some pictures so at least you can see it all ready for shipping.

Thanks again. I can tell you right now, if I make another batch, no way I am putting the time and effort into painting as I did for the first batch. It has been crazy time consuming activity.


Bake it in the oven or over another heat source. I've used my BBQ grill on low, or more recently my toaster over set at 150*. Both worked like a charm. :idea:

Bonus is that it dries very hard.


Just a thought, but it might actually be cheaper to use something like POR-15. While they are very proud of their paint (expensive), you don't need more than one coat, and it dries very hard. Dries very rapidly as well. Would only need one coat.....ever. Guess it just depends on what your time is worth. :hmm:
 
I think for the first batch I was interested in donating my time and paint.
There cost of the bracket does not reflect any of my time or paint cost.

I think it is fair in return for the trust the first group put in me getting the first batch.

Subsequent batches, if any, can do their own painting. Although I might do one coat of primer to avoid the bracket started to rust until installed.

I will look into the grill idea if it is not going to get any sunny here in the north east.
 
Brackets are ready. Will start shipping shortly

Finally a sunny day.
Here are some pictures of the current batch sun tanning:
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The deck does not have an engine or wheels. Nor does it go Brrrrrrr. Hence low priority.

Thanks Rick, I kept my hands out of the picture so you won't examine my finger nails. LOL.
 
Got my bracket in the mail. All I gotta say is.....WOW. :eek:

I actually feel slightly guilty. These are easily worth two to three times what Rhyary charged for 'em.


Just to keep him from getting too big a head, there's a few (tiny) scratches in the paint in mine. :doh: :lol:


I'll try and remember to take pics and do a write-up when I install mine....
 
The first batch of ten got the "kit" which includes painting (4 coats) pins and M8 10.9 flange bolts.
I really can't do that for the same price going forward so I updated the price in the classified for bare bone bracket and made the kit an optional.

For those that get the bracket painted. I deliberately tried to paint the inside of the holes. For those who will not installed bump stop right away, it should protect the threads until you do.

For those that will install the bump stops. BE CAREFUL when you start threading the M8 bolt. Because of the paint, it is easy to cross thread the bolt. If you have an M8 1.25 tap, I recommend running the tap thru the threads. But you can also do it with the bolts I supply. Because of the paint, there is going to be Resistance and if you apply force and the thread are not true, you will cross thread the bracket.

So DON'T install the bracket in a rash. take your time. The same goes for the capture nuts in the frame. These were exposed and likely have some rust in them. It is difficult to ran a tap, but possible. You can also run an M8 1.25 bolt to tap it. you may have to through the bolt away afterwords.

Again, take your time with the capture nuts in the frame!!!.

The brackets are Passenger and Drive side specific. The inverted U should be toward the back of the track and the offset should be to the outside. if you disconnect the sway bar first and hold the bracket against the frame with the holes line up, you will see if this is correct or not.


Hope this help.



Rami
 
Thank You

Got my brackets today, Cool Cool Cool

Thank you Again
 
going to produce another batch of brackets.
what I have learned from the field and personal experience is that the common bracket is the 3".
Although for a 4" lift 3" bracket the rubber stops are hardly touched it is close enough.
For a 2" lift 3" bracket combination, bump stop rubber may be utilized a bit more, but that would be incentive to go 4".

The 4" bracket for 4" lift is still the ideal in my opinion but the 4" bracket can not be utilized on lower lifts at all.


So I have 3 orders and I need few more orders. Please let me know if you are ready for the ultimate.

Also, if you have more than 2" lift, specifically 4", you will be much better off putting the 3" rear bracket then the 2" bracket.

In short, I want to put in a batch for 3" brackets, front and rear, but I need few more takers.
 
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I don't know if it will fit the 40.

Yes, the Ultimate Bracket is still being made.
I am working on the cost issue to make it more affordable.
From everything I have learned about the Ultimate bracket the 3" front and rear is what most configuration will need.

I like to point out that the sway bar hanging point is independent of you lift. It is always the same.
The drop bracket is only matters if you are going to mount the Toyota bump stop (which I highly recommend as per previous posts)

Rami
 
Ok, so over the past year I got many requests for another batch of ultimate brackets.
So I am making another batch of 10 brackets.
All brackets, front and rear will be 3".
I am making 10 sets for the front and 10 sets for the rear
Like the first batch, I am not committing to make another batch.
First come, first serve.

I will keep track at the purchase thread of reserved.
 

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