That’s pretty sweet, I have the one as pictured and one that is a (store bought) prybar like yours but is for engines where there is no rocker shaft and each valve has a rocker stud to pry against (with a nut on) which IS easier for say a SBC. Yours does this of a 235!
Question About the Procedure for Replacing the 2F Valve Seals
- Thread starter 1979 FJ40ish
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- #22
Here is what Copilot generated for me. Remember, the objective here is to get the pistons to TDC so I can stuff rope into the cylinder to keep the valves from dropping into the engine, not to time it.
Based on my “book learning” and not any actual experience, it seems to me I will only need to find TDC on one cylinder in each pair, assuming that all FOUR valves are closed when the PAIR of pistons reach TDC.
Yes, I know what they say about assuming……….
Engine whispers, am I about to make a serious mistake?
Based on my “book learning” and not any actual experience, it seems to me I will only need to find TDC on one cylinder in each pair, assuming that all FOUR valves are closed when the PAIR of pistons reach TDC.
Yes, I know what they say about assuming……….
Engine whispers, am I about to make a serious mistake?
Remember, with the rocker assembly removed during the seal replacement it won’t matter what piston position is. All the valves are closed the whole time.
Not a 2F but I replaced all the valve seals and springs in my LT1 in my FJ40 10 years ago, I did each valve at TDC with an air fitting and compressed air in each spark plug hole it worked mint other than being a bit noisy and a lot of excess air venting down into the crankcase, all the valves stayed in position none of them even looked like dropping while I replaced the seals and used a valve spring micrometeor to check the spring heights, a fiddly job but a lot easier than I expected and there was no way I could drop a valve into a cylinder with pistons at TDC the only thing I had to be careful about was dropping any debri from the old seals or the retainer locks into the engine, I kept a telescopic magnet handy just in case I had to recover anything that dropped
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I still don’t understand this thread at all. Why not just use shop air if rotating the engine is so difficult?
Why are we replacing valve seals on a non-driving vehicle? Get it driving and driving and do that later. That’s a maintenance project.
Also, if you can’t rotate the engine with the alternator nut and decent belt tension, your engine might be seized. Like I said, make it run and drive and then worry about valve seals later.
Why are we replacing valve seals on a non-driving vehicle? Get it driving and driving and do that later. That’s a maintenance project.
Also, if you can’t rotate the engine with the alternator nut and decent belt tension, your engine might be seized. Like I said, make it run and drive and then worry about valve seals later.
- Thread starter
- #27
Regarding rotating the engine. People suggested rotating it with the fan belt, so I tried to do that unsuccessfully. It never occurred to me to try turning it with the nut on the alternate. (As I stated in the first post in this thread, I’ve never done anything like this before.) The fan shroud prevents me from getting a socket wrench or wrench on it. However, I have a shorty socket with holes in both sides that I can slip a small metal rod through and use the rod to turn the pulley.
But I found an even easier way to rotate the engine. Jack up one front wheel. Lock the hubs, put it in 4-wheel drive high range, and rotate the front tire that is off the ground. The engine seems to turn over with less effort than it does when using the rear wheel.
I also discovered an app that I installed on my iPhone and iPad called Apower Mirror. The two devices connect over Wi-Fi. I can point my phone camera at whatever I want to watch and see it on my iPad at the other end of the FJ or across the garage.
Do I understand correctly that since I have removed the rocker arm assembly, all of the valves are already closed, so I just need to keep them from dropping into the engine? I don’t have the best of compressors. How many PSI does it take to hold them up?
But I found an even easier way to rotate the engine. Jack up one front wheel. Lock the hubs, put it in 4-wheel drive high range, and rotate the front tire that is off the ground. The engine seems to turn over with less effort than it does when using the rear wheel.
I also discovered an app that I installed on my iPhone and iPad called Apower Mirror. The two devices connect over Wi-Fi. I can point my phone camera at whatever I want to watch and see it on my iPad at the other end of the FJ or across the garage.
Do I understand correctly that since I have removed the rocker arm assembly, all of the valves are already closed, so I just need to keep them from dropping into the engine? I don’t have the best of compressors. How many PSI does it take to hold them up?
I didn't have a very good compressor either I think it ran constant with the air leakdown through the engine, just make sure you only do 1 valve at a time with the piston at tdc and you shouldn't have any problems