Putting a header on

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Jan 5, 2004
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Is there anything that needs to be done when putting a header in other than just bolting it up? Still new with my 2f in the fj60 and am contemplating putting in a header but want to know what I'm getting into before I do it. On a difficulty scale of 1-10, 1 being the easiest and 10 hardest, how hard is it to do?
 
good question!

I have been considering this for quite some time on my 60 and just can't commit. The purists will tell you to stay stock and that you shouldn't expect significant performance gains since the stock manifold does it's job well.

My issue is a little different since I already put a new exhaust & carb. on and then replaced the gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds only to get everything re-assembled find a exhaust manifold leak :mad:

here's what I learned while looking:

-use two gaskets OR one quality gasket with copper coat permatex.
-consider buying a fluid heat riser since you'll be losing your stock one.
-sor.com has a nice two piece header that should install easier and last longer.
-sor.com also has the collector pipe 2-1 to connect to the factory exhaust.
-consider ceramic coating since the header will introduce more heat into the engine bay (if that's freaking possible).
-IF you reuse the stock manifold have it machined flat to avoid future leaks.
 
Mine is similar to the leak on yours. I just have been living with it for now but I am looking to finally fix it. Will it not do very much performance wise?

Side note anyone done business with JT Outfitters and have any experience to share good or bad? Just looking around still. Input is greatly appreciated.
 
Dude,
I got a Downey smog legal header for my 40, another Downey header on my Pig.
You will need some kind of grinder. Expect that with any header. An angle grinder will get it done, a dremel is occasionally useful.
Wrestling the header into place can be frustrating.
You need a new exhaust pipe, of course, but driving to the shop with uncorked headers is really, really fun. Keep a copy of the yellow pages with you, so when the officer pulls you over, you can point to the page opened to "muffler shops".
I just use one gasket, a good one. Get a new set of official Toyota studs and washers and nuts. And a few spares.
On the scale of difficulty...on a 60?...(I've only done my 40 & 55)...your first time? a weekend (I've done it in a day). Taking your time.. I'd rate it a few bananas just due to the tight spaces and stuff.
 
I think the major difference on a 60 will be 12 miles of emissions hoses :mad:

JT has provided good service in the past BUT completely pissed me off and wouldn't answer my calls for a shipping problem he created. I don't use him unless he's the only game in town.

I believe the 2 piece header with the really thick flanges would eliminate alot of the grinding and fitting most people have to do on the earlier headers.


http://www.sor.com/sor/cat324.tam?xax=29980&page.ctx=cat324.tam
 
I agree with DeepSouth on the header flange thickness, if it matches the intake, you don't have to fiddle with half washers. I have the SOR 2-piece and I feel like it is easier to shoe horn in place. Used two Felpro gaskets and retorqued after the first warm up/cooldown and repeated for the next several hundred miles until the torque did not change.
Now on JTO...I have never done business with them other than to send them several unanswered emails. I've also read of other guys bad experience. I am old enough that I no longer have to touch the stove to see if it is hot. Lots of good suppliers out there with clean track records.
If everything is working with your stock setup, I would not go to a header. But if you have constant leaks, the header is a cheaper solution to replacing stock exhaust manifold.
IMHO
Ed Long
 
Thanks for all the great replys. It helps. Deep South what did you mean by the difference is 12miles of emissions hose? I was wondering if there is something I'm missing. Thanks again for the suggestions. I was also looking for anyone who put one on and felt a huge difference as opposed to the stock setup. What's the easiest way to fix an exhaust leak? Should I just take it in to the shop?
 
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