Putting a 1986 FJ60 back on the road

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Had a few minutes today and just wanted to get some surfaces ready while I’m waiting on the head and my gasket set. I decided to go ahead and separate my intake and exhaust manifolds. It appears my exhaust manifold diverter butterfly has come apart. Any insight on this? Can it be repaired? Do I have to buy a new manifold? Do I even need one in Alabama? I’m honestly not 100% sure on it’s use. Is diverting the warm air toward the intake/carb while the engine is cold the purpose? If so maybe I don’t need it in the Deep South. Should I just fix it anyway while I’m there. Any advice is appreciated.
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Also I’ve had trouble finding head bolts and push rods for this engine. If anyone knows of a source let me know please. Thanks guys!
-Michael
 
Headbolts are not TTY. clean and reuse old ones. They're very robust. Same for Push rods. Still available from Toyota if you really want to replace. Important is to find an oddball sized M13 x 1.75 tap for the block holes.

Different ways to go with the manifold: you don't need that thermoflap in Alabama. I'm in Los Angeles and have removed mine. Some tap the holes and plug. Others with welding skillz weld a plug in. I just removed the flap and left everything else alone since I have to pass visual inspection.
 
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Headbolts are not TTY. clean and reuse old ones. They're very robust. Same for Push rods. Still available from Toyota if you really want to replace. Important is to find an oddball sized M11 x 1.75 tap for the block holes.

Different ways to go with the manifold: you don't need that thermoflap in Alabama. I'm in Los Angeles and have removed mine. Some tap the holes and plug. Others with welding skillz weld a plug in. I just removed the flap and left everything else alone since I have to pass visual inspection.
That’s great. I’ll just delete it and tap the hole and plug it off. I was guessing that they could be reused since they were not readily available. I have 2 that are pretty rusty and the pushrods are also rusty. I think I’ll first try to clean them up and see how they turn out. I have a fairly good thread cleaner/chaser kit but I’ll I’m pretty sure there is no 11 mm tap. Thanks again spike!
-Michael
 
Sorry I made a mistake, the tap size you need is an M13 x1.75. it's been a while. I'll correct the above post later when I get home.

In any case, it's an oddball size and you won't be able to find it in any kit. I sometimes see them on ebay and I know MSC direct sells them.
 
Sorry I made a mistake, the tap size you need is an M13 x1.75. it's been a while. I'll correct the above post later when I get home.

In any case, it's an oddball size and you won't be able to find it in any kit. I sometimes see them on ebay and I know MSC direct sells them.
I wasn’t doubting you. Only the contents of my tap set. Thanks you’ve been very helpful.
-Michael
 
I got my gasket set and I got my head back today. It ended up being a pretty comprehensive rebuild which I am glad. All New valves and new valve springs and New freeze plugs. I’m just making sure I have everything ready to get back to work and I realized there is only one alignment dowel pin. It’s on the driver side closest to front of the block. It looks like there is supposed to be another on the back of the head. Can anyone confirm that? Machine shop said there wasn’t one in the head when he got it and there is only one in the motor. Any insight on that would be appreciated. ready to get back on this thing. Thanks
Michael
 
Yes. Two. They often get stuck in the head (should stay on block) and get discarded/ lost by machine shop. Just a few bux from Mr. T
 
Found the alignment dowel pins at the Toyota dealer with the help of part number Godwin gave me. So I ordered them and decided to go ahead and order a new radiator. Wanted to do something while waiting today so I pulled the oil pan and cleaned it out. Checked out the crank and cam and oil pump etc in the bottoms end of the motor and it all looked good. Oil pan was full of nasty gunk from the coolant that was mixed with the oil. I’ve been taking things apart and I’m finally at the spot where by next week I’ll be putting them back together. Can’t wait to hear this thing run again.
 
New radiator is an excellent investment.

If you haven't, you should probably consider new water pump and new fan clutch while you're at it.

Aftermarket OEM are very reasonable at RockAuto.
 
New radiator is an excellent investment.

If you haven't, you should probably consider new water pump and new fan clutch while you're at it.

Aftermarket OEM are very reasonable at RockAuto.
I was trying to hold on to the old copper radiator but better thinking got to me today. It had several repairs and I had laid the ps pump against it and it had mashed some fins. So I pulled the trigger.

I’ve got an Aisin water pump ready to go but the fan clutch seemed good when I took it off. You are probably right I’m sure they’re not expensive and it’ll be nice to have all new coolant system parts.
Thanks
Michael
 
I am in Guntersville. That’s definitely close enough to check out. Is yours a 60 as well?
Yeah that’s not too far away. I have two 60’s I’m trying to get back running and have a third just for parts. They are challenging but fun so far. I may need to get the head machined on one of them. If you’re happy with the shop that did yours I may try to use them too.
 
Ok… next question. 😂

I think I have the wrong head gasket. I ordered a felpro set (hs 21219 B-1) which I still have and then I ordered a OEM engine overhaul set (eggk61044OEM) from cruiser teq. They are identical. But they don’t match my head or my block exactly. The biggest visible issue is the water jacket holes in the front end of the block. Both gaskets have a hole on the left and not on the right and the head and block have a hole on the right and not on the left. I have read 2 or 3 posts about this but can’t discern my exact situation.
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The end closest to the floor is what I’m talking about. I also think this (61040) is the casting number for my head if that matters. Am I crazy? Did I order 2 wrong gaskets. I ordered them by application for a 86 fj60 not by part number. Any help is appreciated.
-Michael
 
I was trying to hold on to the old copper radiator but better thinking got to me today. It had several repairs and I had laid the ps pump against it and it had mashed some fins. So I pulled the trigger.

I’ve got an Aisin water pump ready to go but the fan clutch seemed good when I took it off. You are probably right I’m sure they’re not expensive and it’ll be nice to have all new coolant system parts.
Thanks
Michael

Pull the back from the water pump and reseal it before installation. I bought a 3FE Aisin water pump from Rock Auto and it leaked until I resealed it.
 
The 61040 Casting will be on 2F heads from 8/80- end of '87 for USA, but there are internal casting changes from11/84 forward when the rest of the world got the 3F engine for 60 and 70-series. The non-USA 3F engine as well as the USA FJ62 w/ the 3FE engine also use the 11115-61030 HG.

USA production dates, 10/1984-08/1987 for FJ60 should take the 11115-61030 HG

Your posted picture looks like the 61010 HG. (not all the holes in HG and head/block will line up).

I looked at the CruiserTeq website for the part # you listed and it doesn't give a part # breakdown of individual parts.

@cruiseroutfit ?

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