Push Your IFS Front Axle Forward

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I'm probably going to pull the trigger on this, but not until next year (mod budget is already exhausted for 2026). Seems like a no-brainer and a heck of a lot simpler/cheaper than something like a long-travel kit.
 
I'm probably going to pull the trigger on this, but not until next year (mod budget is already exhausted for 2026). Seems like a no-brainer and a heck of a lot simpler/cheaper than something like a long-travel kit.
I agree. I think this one is gonna be a hot seller.
 
I would like to see more details on the install to see if it's something I think I could do myself. Sounds easy enough but would rather see someone else work out all the kinks. Who's going first and documenting?
 
JD Fab pivot relocation kit are one piece and might be easier to install. With the 25% tariff the cost difference might become negligible for people on US. Especially closer to California.

The steering rack stays in original location and it would impact bunpsteer/Ackerman angle. Might not be that big of an issue on off road vehicles. Ackerman is what gives your inside wheels tighter radius than the outside. Keeping them in sync for both side. Moving the knuckles forward and leaving steering rack in original location disrupt this relationship. Not sure how much.

I been running superpro offset bushing since April 2020. About 50K miles with no maintenance needed sonfsr. Similar concept but no cutting. Only gain maybe 1/2"-5/8" forward. My 35X10.50 with -16 offset almost clear without body mount chop. I still cut it a little to be safe.
 
I would like to see more details on the install to see if it's something I think I could do myself. Sounds easy enough but would rather see someone else work out all the kinks. Who's going first and documenting?
I'll post on my build thread next year when I do install it. I'll need to wait until they make the version with swaybar relocation mounts, as I really want to keep the bars.

FWIW, I ordered a DIY skidplate kit from Coastal Offroad, so we'll see how their overall quality is when I go to build it.
 
JD Fab pivot relocation kit are one piece and might be easier to install. With the 25% tariff the cost difference might become negligible for people on US. Especially closer to California.

The steering rack stays in original location and it would impact bunpsteer/Ackerman angle. Might not be that big of an issue on off road vehicles. Ackerman is what gives your inside wheels tighter radius than the outside. Keeping them in sync for both side. Moving the knuckles forward and leaving steering rack in original location disrupt this relationship. Not sure how much.

I been running superpro offset bushing since April 2020. About 50K miles with no maintenance needed sonfsr. Similar concept but no cutting. Only gain maybe 1/2"-5/8" forward. My 35X10.50 with -16 offset almost clear without body mount chop. I still cut it a little to be safe.
I have been eyeballing the JD fabrication version as well.

Definitely need a kdss delete to use it to its fullest extent. I may go this route when mine 💩 the bed.

I dont want or need long travel, I just want to fit bigger tires to keep up with the Rubicons without having to buy one, or invest the cost of a Jeep into my suspension.
 
Thought this was awesome.


I wish I knew about this when I mounted my 35 inchers. It would have saved me a bunch of fine tuning to minimize rubbing, and I still get a wee bit at lock-to-lock.
 
This type of relocation kit is on my short list but I'm still waiting to hear how this affects handling on the highway. Keeping the steering rack in place while moving the LCAs worries me a bit. Need an offroad engineer to chime in. :cool:
 
This type of relocation kit is on my short list but I'm still waiting to hear how this affects handling on the highway. Keeping the steering rack in place while moving the LCAs worries me a bit. Need an offroad engineer to chime in. :cool:
I think this is wete the fine print of the JF fab kit says you may be restricted to 1/2" to 3/4" of forward movement.

Cvj angle is also a possible concern.

I think doing a tundra rack conversion would be better than a 200 series conversion in this case as the tundra rack is narrower. With the longer steering arms allowing for more misalignment with less realized angle change.

Specifically in response to your concerns.

This is something I would want to run 37s, so I would be planning on a rack conversion probably at the same time.
 
If my rig wasn't my DD, I'd consider doing it and mounting 37" all around, but for a daily, I'd go broke on gas out here in CA.
 
If my rig wasn't my DD, I'd consider doing it and mounting 37" all around, but for a daily, I'd go broke on gas out here in CA.
Plus wear and tear. Brakes, bearings, seals, oh my.
 
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Plus wear and tear. Brakes, bearings, seals, oh my.
Oh my gosh! It just becomes a rabbit hole of repairs!
I remember as a teen, my friends were all about horsepower, but never considered the rest of drivetrain, e.g.: drive shaft, rear diff, trans, etc. And then the brakes, bearings and so on. All they could see was HP with stock drum brakes...
 
Oh my gosh! It just becomes a rabbit hole of repairs!
I remember as a teen, my friends were all about horsepower, but never considered the rest of drivetrain, e.g.: drive shaft, rear diff, trans, etc. And then the brakes, bearings and so on. All they could see was HP with stock drum brakes...
Omg, right!?

I like running canyons, and if you are descending the only thing you need is good brakes.

I was really lucky and had some really cool racers as mentors when I was in my early 20s, and they learned me.

2 guys who raced tuff truck and "Toyota Bill" Fahrenkrog who raced a 3rd gen 4wd with a mercruiser 3.8L if I remember correctly. I lost track of everyone after getting out of the Air Force, unfortunately.
 
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This type of relocation kit is on my short list but I'm still waiting to hear how this affects handling on the highway. Keeping the steering rack in place while moving the LCAs worries me a bit. Need an offroad engineer to chime in. :cool:
With it being adjustable it should be possible to run it at stock or near-stock offset, instead of all the way forward (but that would need to be confirmed by Coastal).

I am curious about how it will work with the aftermarket UCAs that I already have, which have built-in caster. It would certainly be odd to go back to stock UCAs.
 
With it being adjustable it should be possible to run it at stock or near-stock offset, instead of all the way forward (but that would need to be confirmed by Coastal).

I am curious about how it will work with the aftermarket UCAs that I already have, which have built-in caster. It would certainly be odd to go back to stock UCAs.
JD fab has low offset uppers, but stock may be the best option depending on where caster is.

20260412_175524.webp
 
FWIW, I ordered a DIY skidplate kit from Coastal Offroad, so we'll see how their overall quality is when I go to build it.
My buddy who welded my Coastal rear bumper said it went together really well.
 
My buddy who welded my Coastal rear bumper said it went together really well.
I went with Ascend for bumpers due to weight, and Coastal skids yet again due to weight :). Trying to put together a armored GX that isn't overly porky, which has required sourcing armor from lots of different vendors.

The Coastal skid arrived in two small boxes. I'll build it in the July/August timeframe when I get caught up on other projects around the house.
 
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