Thought this was awesome.
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I agree. I think this one is gonna be a hot seller.I'm probably going to pull the trigger on this, but not until next year (mod budget is already exhausted for 2026). Seems like a no-brainer and a heck of a lot simpler/cheaper than something like a long-travel kit.
I'll post on my build thread next year when I do install it. I'll need to wait until they make the version with swaybar relocation mounts, as I really want to keep the bars.I would like to see more details on the install to see if it's something I think I could do myself. Sounds easy enough but would rather see someone else work out all the kinks. Who's going first and documenting?
I have been eyeballing the JD fabrication version as well.JD Fab pivot relocation kit are one piece and might be easier to install. With the 25% tariff the cost difference might become negligible for people on US. Especially closer to California.
The steering rack stays in original location and it would impact bunpsteer/Ackerman angle. Might not be that big of an issue on off road vehicles. Ackerman is what gives your inside wheels tighter radius than the outside. Keeping them in sync for both side. Moving the knuckles forward and leaving steering rack in original location disrupt this relationship. Not sure how much.
I been running superpro offset bushing since April 2020. About 50K miles with no maintenance needed sonfsr. Similar concept but no cutting. Only gain maybe 1/2"-5/8" forward. My 35X10.50 with -16 offset almost clear without body mount chop. I still cut it a little to be safe.
Thought this was awesome.
I think this is wete the fine print of the JF fab kit says you may be restricted to 1/2" to 3/4" of forward movement.This type of relocation kit is on my short list but I'm still waiting to hear how this affects handling on the highway. Keeping the steering rack in place while moving the LCAs worries me a bit. Need an offroad engineer to chime in.![]()
Plus wear and tear. Brakes, bearings, seals, oh my.If my rig wasn't my DD, I'd consider doing it and mounting 37" all around, but for a daily, I'd go broke on gas out here in CA.
Oh my gosh! It just becomes a rabbit hole of repairs!Plus wear and tear. Brakes, bearings, seals, oh my.
Omg, right!?Oh my gosh! It just becomes a rabbit hole of repairs!
I remember as a teen, my friends were all about horsepower, but never considered the rest of drivetrain, e.g.: drive shaft, rear diff, trans, etc. And then the brakes, bearings and so on. All they could see was HP with stock drum brakes...
With it being adjustable it should be possible to run it at stock or near-stock offset, instead of all the way forward (but that would need to be confirmed by Coastal).This type of relocation kit is on my short list but I'm still waiting to hear how this affects handling on the highway. Keeping the steering rack in place while moving the LCAs worries me a bit. Need an offroad engineer to chime in.![]()
JD fab has low offset uppers, but stock may be the best option depending on where caster is.With it being adjustable it should be possible to run it at stock or near-stock offset, instead of all the way forward (but that would need to be confirmed by Coastal).
I am curious about how it will work with the aftermarket UCAs that I already have, which have built-in caster. It would certainly be odd to go back to stock UCAs.
My buddy who welded my Coastal rear bumper said it went together really well.FWIW, I ordered a DIY skidplate kit from Coastal Offroad, so we'll see how their overall quality is when I go to build it.
I went with Ascend for bumpers due to weight, and Coastal skids yet again due to weightMy buddy who welded my Coastal rear bumper said it went together really well.