Project Questions

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crustyBJ60 said:
ps. yes, i'm still looking for a "dimmer" headlight switch. i could use a pair of ford shock towers myself, if someone wanted to pick up a set and send them to me.
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I can do that....there be some aussie parts I'm sorta looking for...:grinpimp:



And steven, I still have a set of 4 ruffstuff spring hangers in the shop. just the fixed end, not the shackle end. there was a shipping mishap and they multiplied on me...I made some shackle hangers, to go with, but they aren't quite as purty as the ruffstuff .
 
If this is already said sorry, just read start of post. First place engine and tranny, take mounts from 60 and should be able to do in a day. Wiring is easy as long as you have the 12V stuff other wise you will have to find the stuff. For the spring over use your stock axles otherwise you have to either out board spring hangers or notch axle, lot of work for a couple of inches, no real advantage. Just use the knuckles to get disc brakes. the rad is alot wider than the stock 40, look at my build post it is what I used. Forgot to mention for the engine tranny mounts find a 42 and take measurements. Also heads up when you spring over you will have crossmember front drive shaft interference.

hope this helps
Jay
 
Well time to resurect an old thread... I should be getting my truck back from ICBC soon... I won't be ordering any parts until I have it in my posession (don't wanna buy anything then find they wrote it off or something like that)

But potential parts order:

From Marlin Crawler:
HD Inner Axle Seal, FJ40-FJ62
2× $17.98

High Steer Kit for FJ60
1× $429.00

Knuckle Service Kit
1× $74.25

Toyota 9.5" Land Cruiser * Gear Ratio: 4.56:1

2× $464.28

Spring Perch
2× $43.50

In addition to this I need a sag pump (Have a sag box around in courtenay... hopefully it works)

I think I might just outboard the leaves instead of moving perches... but still not convinced which is the best option to mount up some 60 axles...

See anything i'm missing (probubly)?
 
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Toshi38 said:
Well time to resurect an old thread... I should be getting my truck back from ICBC soon... I won't be ordering any parts until I have it in my posession (don't wanna buy anything then find they wrote it off or something like that)

But potential parts order:

From Marlin Crawler:
HD Inner Axle Seal, FJ40-FJ62
2× $17.98

High Steer Kit for FJ60
1× $429.00

Knuckle Service Kit
1× $74.25

Toyota 9.5" Land Cruiser * Gear Ratio: 4.56:1

2× $464.28

Spring Perch
2× $43.50

In addition to this I need a sag pump (Have a sag box around in courtenay... hopefully it works)

I think I might just outboard the leaves instead of moving perches... but still not convinced which is the best option to mount up some 60 axles...

See anything i'm missing (probubly)?
Click to expand...

Get the ball gusset kit from somewhere, Marlin has it as well as others. YOu think about rear disc brakes and an 80 master?

I would say run your 40 front axle with 60 knuckles and bits. I had a 60 front and ended up trading it to Dan. I am running a 40 up front and 60 in the back, no big deal. I do think about spacers once in a while...

Cut and turn is way easier than you think. KEEP THE OLD SPRING PERCHES ON UNTIL YOUR DONE THE CUT AND TURN! They are handy to bolt a bar onto for leverage. Go with Dodge spring perches (cheap), at least in the back because you will need an anti wrap bar anyway.

Think about running the 60 sereis springs, at least in the back, and consider an shackle reversal. I know thats a very opinionated subject but think about it. I am happy with mine and Abel has done it on a few trucks now with very good results. If you decide to outboard and 60 axle then it will be harder and uglier to get the SR to work. Ask more if you are interested. You don't want to change your mind later. Spring flip? Think about it now...

I'd say do the PS at the same time as the SOA. I would do the 60 series PS if you get it with the truck.

Don't forget about drive shafts... You might be able to mix and match some parts to make them a little longer or shorter. Also shortening a shaft is dead easy.

I'll post more as I think about it. Listen to Jay about the engine swap stuff...
 
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I have a couple saginaw canned hams in the shed. dunno if they work or not but you can give em a shot.

also have half a ball gusset kit in there somewhere ( dano has the other half I think)

you could use it as a template to cut yourself out a couple.

for the rear definately move the perches...( that ones a no brainer)

when I did mine, I had different backspaced rims, so I had the same track front and rear even with a 60 axle out back and 40 up front.

you could also do that thing with the IFS hubs to get some more width up front and save the spring perch width headache
 
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lets see...

were you getting your marlin seals from.... NSOR has them in stock
and what kind of high steer you getting ... if your going trail gear... NSOR is TG on the main land...

just trying to save you a few bucks if your ordering out of the states..

as for spring perches .. dont go with the dodge ones.. not long enough... Cam made his own out of some 1/4 rectangular tube that i had... you could make your own i still have the material for it.. U need about 7 inch spring perches and i would drill extra holes in the perch so you can move the axle forward an inch or back an inch on the spring pin.... 7 inches will also help with axle wrap... but a trac bar will be needed.

as for SR .. i would say its up to you... i wouldnt do it because i would rather save my nose cone on my transfercase... but that is all opinion...

let me know if you need any material for the perches...
 
hellbent40 said:
as for spring perches .. dont go with the dodge ones.. not long enough... Cam made his own out of some 1/4 rectangular tube that i had... you could make your own i still have the material for it.. U need about 7 inch spring perches and i would drill extra holes in the perch so you can move the axle forward an inch or back an inch on the spring pin.... 7 inches will also help with axle wrap... but a trac bar will be needed.

as for SR .. i would say its up to you... i wouldnt do it because i would rather save my nose cone on my transfercase... but that is all opinion...
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Why do you need long spring perches with a trac bar? Dodge ones are soooo cheap! Long ones are better for the front.

Whats the t-case nose cone have to do with it? If your drive shaft is the correct length it shouldn't be an issue.
 
long perches are good for the rear .. as for having a trac bar and the long perches.. i would do both ... if you are going to be locked in the rear..

as for the sr if you move the fixed mount to the front then the axle will move back and put torque on the nose cone...

just opinion ...
 
hellbent40 said:
as for the sr if you move the fixed mount to the front then the axle will move back and put torque on the nose cone...

just opinion ...
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Thats the first time I've heard that. I think it would bust the tcase off the tranny. If you are running very flat springs like you should then the for-aft movement will be minimal. Abel busts bell housing off but has only ever busted 1 nose cone with his SR. Like I said, proper driveshaft length is important. Steve weigh the options out now, you only want to do this once, and if you outboard don't bother with the SR.

I did the SR because I bent both front springs and broke 1 shackle by hitting rocks. SR drives down the highway like dream at 120k, well as dreamy as a 40 on TSLs can... Don't use a bolt on POS kit if you do it. Just ask or look at my SOA build where it got to...
 
now that is funny....
 
when I did it, I did the sr, but really only because it allows you to keep the soa a bit lower.

the business with the driveshaft is a pain in the ass, easy enough to overcome, you just need to be pretty precise with the d-shaft measurements. and the longspline minitruck driveshafts have just barely enough spline.

( or did for me, however, I didn't use 60 series rear springs up front on that truck, I used 60 series fronts)

later when I de-soa'd my cruiser ( too tall and tippy for a roofload of windsurf gear on a logging road) I took out the sr.

They do drive nicely on the highway, tho you get a bit more nosedive when you hammer the brakes.

but I think part of that is that in the reversed configuration, worn out spring bushings don't have quite so much effect on the ride. Course, when you re-do everying with new bushings that's not as big an issue.

My 45 was already soa when I got the rolling frame, and it wasn't sr, and I kept it that way. partly out of laziness, but mainly out of disinterest, just wasn't worth the hassle.
 
seapotato said:
also have half a ball gusset kit in there somewhere ( dano has the other half I think)

you could use it as a template to cut yourself out a couple.
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Do you still have that plasma cutter at your place?

also if I was to put 60 knuckles onto my 40 axles would that work?

And if it does... do I need a 40 highsteer kit or a 60 one? ... or do I have to cut down a 60 one?

Thinking i'd go with this kit... (or the 40 equiv):
High Steer Kit for FJ60 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
 
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