Build Project Bob
- Thread starter Mace
- Start date
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Looks like 1/4 elips are the way to go with your set up. If ya need some stock 80series coils let me know...
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2005
- Threads
- 22
- Messages
- 456
Well so much for getting some easy tips from you on how to get the ford running.
Yep 347 should be mo better
f303 cam
ProTopline 180cc heads 2.02 intake, 1.6 exhaust
GT-40 intake port matched to heads
32lb injectors
C&L Mass airflow
76mm throttle body
eagle crank and rods
keith black pistons
bbk shorty headers
ford racing roller rockers
C-4 Art Carr full manual valve body transmission
Maybe a 231 doubler
Dana 300
Shooting for 400hp na
You coming up for the KO this year? Hopefully its running by then.
Yep 347 should be mo better
f303 cam
ProTopline 180cc heads 2.02 intake, 1.6 exhaust
GT-40 intake port matched to heads
32lb injectors
C&L Mass airflow
76mm throttle body
eagle crank and rods
keith black pistons
bbk shorty headers
ford racing roller rockers
C-4 Art Carr full manual valve body transmission
Maybe a 231 doubler
Dana 300
Shooting for 400hp na
You coming up for the KO this year? Hopefully its running by then.
You might want to rethink the 76 MM TB thats quite large. Alos, there are alot better intakes out there than the gt40. (Same goes for the f cam. I'm not familiar with those heads, but 400HP is possible NA (at the crank) if you run some higher compression. As I mentioned to MAce, checkout corral.net (Thats where I spent all my time when I was into mustangs. ) Thank goodness I came over to the cruiser side. I like the costgs and reward much better!
As far as Mace's build...I am still wondering if it will ever get finished.
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2005
- Threads
- 22
- Messages
- 456
Duh not 76mm its 70mm.
Gt40 seemed to be good for lower RPM's looking for more torque. Plus I picked it up for under $250 so cost per HP is looking pretty good.
I am not building it to be the highest HP stroker out there just to be decent HP and Torque. Shooting for 400 but will be fine if its 350.
Mace you coming to KO this year?
Gt40 seemed to be good for lower RPM's looking for more torque. Plus I picked it up for under $250 so cost per HP is looking pretty good.
I am not building it to be the highest HP stroker out there just to be decent HP and Torque. Shooting for 400 but will be fine if its 350.
Mace you coming to KO this year?
I ifigured the MAF was 76 MM. You must have an Explorer intake not the real GT40 if you picked it up for that much. If you have the real deal then you got a steal! (The original GT40 is the intake I had on my 89 5.0) Man I do miss driving a rocket at times, then I remember I can jump curbs, over hills and ditches to get anywhere now. 
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2002
- Threads
- 165
- Messages
- 2,105
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
- Website
- www.mntoyx4.com
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2002
- Threads
- 165
- Messages
- 2,105
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
- Website
- www.mntoyx4.com
17th of Feb i think.....
Nice score
Keep us posted on everything, I feel like I have been following the build forever, Matt int he 45 section gets us spoiled with his speed.
- Thread starter
- #374
Got the last link item in today.
I was going to put a big ass heim in the wishbone end portion but it actually was cheaper to run a rebuildable, threaded johnny joint.
I was going to put a big ass heim in the wishbone end portion but it actually was cheaper to run a rebuildable, threaded johnny joint.
- Thread starter
- #375
Now that I got everything I started to assemble the links.
For the lowers they will be made out of 2" .250 wall tubing.
Unfortunately, there is not a threaded insert for a 1x14" thread in a 1.5" ID tube readily available. So it was time to make things work.
I got some 1.5" x .120 wall DOM and made "spacers" for the threaded inserts that I have. I drilled some holes in the dom to tack it to the threaded bushings. Seems to have worked out well.
I did have to spend some time polishing the dom to make it fit in the 2" x.250 wall chromo..
For the lowers they will be made out of 2" .250 wall tubing.
Unfortunately, there is not a threaded insert for a 1x14" thread in a 1.5" ID tube readily available. So it was time to make things work.
I got some 1.5" x .120 wall DOM and made "spacers" for the threaded inserts that I have. I drilled some holes in the dom to tack it to the threaded bushings. Seems to have worked out well.
I did have to spend some time polishing the dom to make it fit in the 2" x.250 wall chromo..
- Thread starter
- #376
Once I was able to put the threaded inserts in the 2" tubing I ran a single pass to make sure that the 1.5" dom was welded to the threaded bung and then I completed another pass to make sure that the whole shebang was welded together..
- Thread starter
- #377
I am still trying to convince myself that I need to use the 2" x .250 tubing for the bushing instead of teh 1.75 x .120 tubing..
The bushings will be at the lower axle end so they will see abuse. But if it matters for a bushing I do not know. It will be supported from the inside..
The bushings will be at the lower axle end so they will see abuse. But if it matters for a bushing I do not know. It will be supported from the inside..
- Thread starter
- #379
well... very.. but it won't weigh much more than the leaves did and honestly, I would rather overbuild and not have to consider any issues when my wife is driving the truck at 75 down the highway..
Mace,how much is chopped off Bob's rear?A nice pic would do!