Builds Project Bob (6 Viewers)

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Isn't single stage the type that will leave your hand chalky looking after it gets a few years old?

My last Mustang I had was liek that it would look like poo if you didnt wash and wax it all the time. If you didnt wax it often and stay on top of it it looked chalky looking.

Edit:
I want to see some pics mace to make sure you are actually working :)
 
LOL

okay, I'll take pics tonight
 
acrylic enamel is crap & will be harder than hell working with a metallic in. it also does not last very long but will look good when new & maintained.

If your set on a metallic I would go with a very high end single stage or jump up to 2 stage. & hire a pro to spray it otherwise it will look like crap. $$$$

With metallics you cannot sand drips you have to sand & then respray. alot more work. also any spray inconsistancies will show.

I'm sure you can find a gallon of decent single stage 2k urethane here in town for around $150. I would go with solid colors in a dupont industrial urethane (similar to the old imron 333).
 
Got 1/2 of the holes drilled in the GM 203 in a ford bolt pattern.
the reason that I have not finished drilling and tapping the holes is due to the fact that one of the bolts has to drill into the shoulder of the 203. Drilling that part won't be a big deal but tapping an incomplete hole is a PITA.

Soooooo, out comes the JB weld :D

I used tape to create a boundary and am going to sand down the surface to be flat with the flange. I really don't care how strong the JB weld is, Most of the bolt will have threads in metal completly...

You can also see the allen head set screws that I am using to plug the chevy 203 pattern.. I figure that having ti able to be run to a Chevy again would not be a bad thing ;)
203 redrill.jpg
203 jb weld.jpg
 
I am also looking to replace some of the rusty spots on this rig.
It is funny, there is no rust on the gutters like most 60's have. But the bottom of the tailgate is pretty hammers as are these spots..

Other than these bad spots is is fairly clean (cept for a nice dent in the PS rear door ;)
DS rear rust.jpg
PS rear rust.jpg
window frame rust.jpg
 
I really like the stock color. So I am thinking that a metallic blue will be necessary.

But I also think that I am going to go with this paint scheme...

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Cept the white will be blue and the blue will be rhinolined black :)
 
So do I, but there was another guy on the board with a white top cruiser that just did not look right..
 
Mace, A benefit of single stage paint over two stage is maintainability....
Scratches can be lightly sanded and buffed out much more readably than with two stage.
 
How about the aqua color from this pic instead the the white. Still would be life Aquatic like...could even paint the very top of the roof white.
lifeaquaticslipdvd.jpg
 
Wow, pics, i dont know if I can stand up. Feel light headed. :)

Glad to see you are really doing something. I am not a great reader so I love me some pictures! Looking forward to more news and updates!!! Lookin' good!

I like the paint idea you just posted Mace. Looks kinda cool. I am not sold on the white or black roof ideas on wagons myself.

Also, the rust in the rear kinda under the tail gate. How are you going to go about repairs there. Thats one of the many places I have some rust :)
 
lol

I do have another 40 and two kids to take care of as well ;)


the white is just not my cup of tea...

the blue top and aqua lower might be neat.

Anyone what to chop that color scheme into bob?
Corey??? :D


I am planning on just cutting it out and replacing the pieces. I am fairly sure that SOMEONE that is parting out a 60 will have those protions in good condition that they can;t seem to get rid of :)
 
I will chop it for ya later this week brotha...
 
Got the headers for the 5.0 instead of the tight ass stock manifolds.

Should flow fairly well with a single 3" through a flowmaster and one catalytic converter
equal length header.jpg
stock header shorty.jpg
 
I am also wondering about Catalyic converters.

I like how compact this style is but there is no provision for an air tube (I can add one easily)

So I am not sure that it will pass smog easily..
catalytic.jpg
catalytic 2.jpg
 
i say just buy a decent a/m cat,(NOT a catco brand) install 3-bolt flanges to it, then after smogging you install a "test pipe" of matching length for driving. the cat stays on the shelf fresh and new for the next smog. (ive heard of a guy out in calif that has done this before)

have you checked out the 40 yet?


chris:cool:


Mace said:
I am also wondering about Catalyic converters.

I like how compact this style is but there is no provision for an air tube (I can add one easily)

So I am not sure that it will pass smog easily..
Click to expand...
 
Nope, Mace is from Vegas. And the fawking Kali people go and ruin everything for us...


I don't want to remove the cat. If I did, I would lose it and never find it again.

Have you seen my garage?
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