Pro comp 4" lift for 200

[tbisaacs]

Don’t do it. Your truck is just a masterpiece!

 

[TeCKis300]

They won’t stuff without a lift though right? I’m trying to figure out the minimum I can do to clear 37s and retain all AHC function on my LX..

Perhaps a tangent to this thread. Your goal to 37s could be done with another strategy.

Full diameter 35s on the LX are readily doable. Lookup @grinchy 's build. 36s would need .5" more clearance. 37s, 1" more clearance.

I'm a proponent of body lifts for added clearance. It keeps the center of gravity significantly lower than a drop bracket strategy by keeping the really heavy stuff - all mechanicals including frame, engine lower. While lifting the cab work to increase wheel clearance all around the wheel and suspension. Potentially resulting in COG that is inches lower than a 4" drop bracket to accomodate 37s.

A 1" body lift would do wonders to making room for 37s. Prior examples of body lift would be Fat Amy. Or Canguro Racings Monica that races on 37s.

If I wanted 37s, this would be my strategy. Which isn't that drastic in the grand scheme of things.
1) 1" AHC sensor lift
2) 1" body lift
3) Body mount chop
4) Toyota Front shock spacer
5) Slightly larger or spaced down front and rear bump stops
6) Wheels or spacer for ~35mm offset
7) Pull front of front wheel well plastic forward
8) Trim rear of front wheel well mudflat and step/step bracket
9) Grind seat belt anchor bolt protruding in rear wheel well
10) 4.88 re-gear for 6-speed, 3.909 re-gear for 8-speed
11) Find the highest friction coefficient brake pads you can get

 

[grinchy]

I will say that while braking isn’t scary with the 35s I do stay alert. Stopping distance is definitely increased.
And soooo much brake dust. First time I’ve ever bought the special rim brake dust softener cleaner.
UCAs and BMc probably required to go bigger, I’m pretty close to the body mount to the rear of the front wheels.

 

[4wheelgreg]

Why is braking an issue with 35"'s ? Too soft of a front suspension ?

 

[TimCFJ40]

Why is braking an issue with 35"'s ? Too soft of a front suspension ?

Larger effective diameter and heavier tires. As the tires get bigger, the brakes have less leverage on them.

 

[4wheelgreg]

I have built a lot of big trucks including Tundras and have done the TRD conversions made a big difference just not sure if there is a big brake kit available , there not cheap either 2500 bucks .
This is my first land cruiser , brakes felt expectable , I see a lot of guys running a heavy tire and wheel combination like a steel wheel and heavy lug tire is not good for braking and unsprung weight .
Any good brake upgrades , Toyota is advertising the the new Heritage has upgraded vented brakes , they don't stop mush different than a base LC .
I drove one and did not feel any different stoping .

 

[bloc]

Any good brake upgrades , Toyota is advertising the the new Heritage has upgraded vented brakes , they don't stop mush different than a base LC .
I drove one and did not feel any different stoping .

HE has the same 4-wheel vented disks as any other 2016+ Landcruiser/LX570.

2008-2015 have smaller front rotors than 2016+.. the later model years are the only upgrade that came from the factory. But many people upgrade pads and run the earlier rotors without issue.

A few people have retrofit the Tundra front brakes which are functionally the same as the 2016+ fronts. There are a few posts in this forum on the details if you search. Bjowett in particular has posted extensively on this and other big brake options.

 

[grinchy]

Brakes not such a big issue, just noting that one can feel the increased mass.

 

[ga12r1]

Why on earth would someone want to ruin a 200 series by doing a bracket lift!?!? Holy mackerel that’s a bad idea!!!

 

[4wheelgreg]

Here on the easy coast we have more mud and sand than big rock climbing , I had JK full Genright conversion with a Cummins when I lived out west ... Go big or go home . Now on the East Coast its mud and sand , the Cruisers get stuck all the time . For me 35 / 36 with no rubbing , don’t want to get into cutting body mounts and running high CV angles .
I do like the Icon kit but it’s all the snow and salt here it just destroys all that Fancy aluminum .
If the drop bracket gets me 36” with minimum modification to the frame I would sacrifice frame ground clearance and build a nice skid plate .

 

[ga12r1]

Here on the easy coast we have more mud and sand than big rock climbing , I had JK full Genright conversion with a Cummins when I lived out west ... Go big or go home . Now on the East Coast its mud and sand , the Cruisers get stuck all the time . For me 35 / 36 with no rubbing , don’t want to get into cutting body mounts and running high CV angles .
I do like the Icon kit but it’s all the snow and salt here it just destroys all that Fancy aluminum .
If the drop bracket gets me 36” with minimum modification to the frame I would sacrifice frame ground clearance and build a nice skid plate .

I hear ya. I was born and raised on a farm in South Ga and still live here, right on the doorstep of the Okefenokee Swamp. I know all about mud.
When I was younger I had a bracket lift on a 1992 1/2 ton Chevy running 39.5x18x16.5 Super Swamper Boggers on MT 16.5x12 wheels. I broke things all of the time and ruined a good truck. Then I turned around and bracket lifted a 2000 1/2 Silverado and ran 38” Super Swamper TSLs and ruined another.
It took a long time for me to learn but if I wanted to run 36”-37” tires now to play I’d buy an 80 and do it right. Save my 200 for less nasty things.
Here’s a few throwbacks for you of both trucks. They are the only photos I have of them

 

[4wheelgreg]

I'm starting to have than same thought my self . I really like the ICON stuff , I am very adimit about cleaning my LC after snow or salt event , to drop 7k for the ICON stage 6 and have it corroded even after cleaning I have seen Icon stuff after a few year on daily drivers .
Thanks for the flip side of the coin .
Greg