Power Steering Pump/Hose Replacement + BLEED (2 Viewers)

[Demonic92]

Good evening!
I know this has been covered before and I've been trying to search and read but i havent really gotten what i need and i need to get this project done.

Replacing the power steering pump on my 91 3FE FJ80 with a new City Racer unit. I got the old pump out and the pulley taken off (curse the design that requires pulley to be removed in order to get pump off.) what is a good way to get pulley installed on new pump? I assume it has to be done with pump installed on the car because of the silly bolt design for the pump, unless i install that bolt backwards with a nut on the front of the bracket, but i dont have a nut for that bolt and don't know where to find one... cant use pulley installer tool because the pulley doesnt have a lip where the tool goes.

Next, I'm replacing the power steering pressure hose because some brilliant mechanic ordered the wrong hose the last time it was replaced and did a bad job bending it into shape instead of ordering the proper part. Sounds like i have to unbolt the radiator and scoot it back to fit the new hose down in there. I can't figure out what i actually need to do to get the radiator loose... FSM makes it look like i need to remove the whole front end of the car. What's the easiest way to go about this??

I would love any help i get. Thanks in advance.

Paging @jonheld because he is the master.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

i can say that steering pressure feed hose assy. forced into your 1991 FJ80 3F-E

was one for a 3F-E FJ62 in-fact ..

there super similar in visual appearance from a few feet away , and also on a cell phone screen too , only inches away ...


that P/S pump pulley topic of off before and on after i have slogged through more then once , let me poder a decade of dust off and ill hit you back ,,

you should posse a new OEM keyway / woodruff key , if you do not in-fact now ?


lastly ,

new CR pump assy , new pressure feed hose assy = only 1 Must Have / Must Do if i were you ......

the Rocket Science is real here , i personally have been using this for more than 2+ decades , the first week i had SUPER HILUX 6/05 4.7 2UZ-FE ...

i force-fed-flushed out the entire system until this ran clean and blood-red as it is straight out of the bottle , that was just about 9 years ago , i have force-fed-flushed it 1 time more in between then and now also , in the middle-ish time-line ....

no disappointments to report ,

it covers the whole Dextron I II III subject matter and beyond per. TOYOTA OEM Acceptable Substitution use stated in the 1991 FJ80 FSM , Owners Manual etc ...

GHOST got here whole system wide force-feed-flush too last fall , 5/89 3F-E FJ62LG-PNEK , not a seep since , there were no seeps prior to that initial i now own it , so ALL PO fluids must go and go now approach i use to establish my new baseline procedures my way , before there due i do them mindset ...




PM me if you like on the Pulley Topic , & im sure you know , but i should mention it any way for good measure here for others ,....that pulley u have is the current TOP-TIER price point for a pre-owned P/S pump pulley of ANY toyota vehicle platform globally today ....

so the care , caution , and kid gloves use approach removal & install related all apply here ......110%

imagine that ..... it;s another Land Cruiser part TOYOTA NLA / Disc. not so long ago ...


.

 

[jonheld]

The shaft of the PS pump is tapered with a woodruff key.
Mount the pump on the engine first. Rotate the shaft so the woodruff key slot is facing up.
Put the key in the slot.
Put the pulley on. It only goes on one way due to the taper.
Hold the pulley with a strap wrench to tighten the nut.
Done.

 

[BreezyF]

Good evening!
I know this has been covered before and I've been trying to search and read but i havent really gotten what i need and i need to get this project done.

Replacing the power steering pump on my 91 3FE FJ80 with a new City Racer unit. I got the old pump out and the pulley taken off (curse the design that requires pulley to be removed in order to get pump off.) what is a good way to get pulley installed on new pump? I assume it has to be done with pump installed on the car because of the silly bolt design for the pump, unless i install that bolt backwards with a nut on the front of the bracket, but i dont have a nut for that bolt and don't know where to find one... cant use pulley installer tool because the pulley doesnt have a lip where the tool goes.

Next, I'm replacing the power steering pressure hose because some brilliant mechanic ordered the wrong hose the last time it was replaced and did a bad job bending it into shape instead of ordering the proper part. Sounds like i have to unbolt the radiator and scoot it back to fit the new hose down in there. I can't figure out what i actually need to do to get the radiator loose... FSM makes it look like i need to remove the whole front end of the car. What's the easiest way to go about this??

I would love any help i get. Thanks in advance.

Paging @jonheld because he is the master.

As for the radiator removal, take the (I think) four screws holding the front grill in. Next there are two nuts with bolts going through on the right and left side of the radiator. These are close to the headlights. Remove those nuts I believe they are 12mm. Then from the top on the left and right side of the radiator are long bolts (I think 12mm) remove those and she should be loose other than your hoses on top and bottom. Nothing really to it, just gets messy.

 

[Demonic92]

As for the radiator removal, take the (I think) four screws holding the front grill in. Next there are two nuts with bolts going through on the right and left side of the radiator. These are close to the headlights. Remove those nuts I believe they are 12mm. Then from the top on the left and right side of the radiator are long bolts (I think 12mm) remove those and she should be loose other than your hoses on top and bottom. Nothing really to it, just gets messy.

Figured out the radiator, two bolts buried in the engine bay and two nuts lind of next to the headlights. Cant figure how i'm going to unscrew this one that's buried behind the condenser on PS. Any tips?

 

[Demonic92]

Figured out the radiator, two bolts buried in the engine bay and two nuts lind of next to the headlights. Cant figure how i'm going to unscrew this one that's buried behind the condenser on PS. Any tips?

View attachment 3365545

Figured it out. I just unbolted the condensor where it attaches to the body panel above the radiator and scooted it up from the bottom so i could shove a deep socket with a swivel in there.

 

[BreezyF]

Figured it out. I just unbolted the condensor where it attaches to the body panel above the radiator and scooted it up from the bottom so i could shove a deep socket with a swivel in there.

That’ll work, I took the headlight out and used and pretty lengthy extension with a swivel head and didn’t have to do anything too extensive.

 

[Demonic92]

What is the correct way to sneak the new high pressure steering line in? I have the radiator loose but i cant figure out how to actually sneak the metal line up where it needs to be.

 

[Demonic92]

No idea how this is supposed to be done without removing radiator. Am i supposed to come in from top or bottom? Behind or in front of radiator? Where am i supposed to move the radiator?

 

[Demonic92]

I got it. Will explain later

 

[Demonic92]

The shaft of the PS pump is tapered with a woodruff key which fits into the slot in the pulley. The pulley only goes on one way and without drama.

Having trouble with this now. I'm not experiencing the above quote, and i cant get the pulley to even go back on the old pump "without drama." Is this some sort of corrosion on the inside of the shaft hole on the pulley that's preventing it from going on? Or am i dumb

 

[Demonic92]

I got it to slide on with "no drama" finally but the damn woodruff key wasnt in right and fell down into the space between the belt and another pulley. I dont have a magnet on a stick.

 

[jonheld]

A dab of grease will keep the key in place in the slot.
I would put a thin coating of grease on the PS shaft as well.
Lubrication is the key to happiness.

 

[Demonic92]

Got the key out by loosening the belt off of the pulley where it was stuck. Got the pulley on and tightened it down with a strap wrench keeping the pulley still.

Filled it up, started the car, turned it off. Filled it up more. Started car, fluid didnt go down anymore. Turned steering wheel left and right a bunch, felt great. Went for a drive, all was going well and felt fine until i did a full lock left turn around a roundabout and then i lost power steering. Have been trying to bleed the system by turning wheels lock to lock both with the car on the ground and off the ground about 100 times. If i turn the wheel super hard, sometimes fluid will come out of the reservoir, but not feeling any difference in steering. Still tight as hell and fluid level doesnt seem to be going down. When i turn to full lock, i hear the ps pump groaning. Not sure what to do, not happy that i'm yet again stuck, on the last step of this debacle

 

[jonheld]

The power steering system self bleeds. This nonsense of turning the wheel back and forth while swinging a dead chicken over your head is just foolish.
Fill up the reservoir, put the cap back on or you'll make a mess. Start the engine for a few seconds and shut down. Repeat until the level in the reservoir stays full.
If the fluid is foamy, wait some time for the bubbles to clear.

 

[Demonic92]

The power steering system self bleeds. This nonsense of turning the wheel back and forth while swinging a dead chicken over your head is just foolish.
Fill up the reservoir, put the cap back on or you'll make a mess. Start the engine for a few seconds and shut down. Repeat until the level in the reservoir stays full.
If the fluid is foamy, wait some time for the bubbles to clear.

It didnt feel any better today after waiting for something magical to happen overnight. I drove around 10 miles and it was marginal at best, not working at all for a little bit after i stopped at a mechanic to ask for advice. I decided to pick up some vinyl tubing and a barb and flushed it out into a 5 gal bucket using the FSM method to get all the air out of the system and get the system flushed thru maybe 5 times. The fluid was flowing great and being pushed thru the system by the pump fine... no blockage, maybe something wrong w gearbox?

Started it up with high spirits because there really couldnt have been much air in the system with how well i flushed it and how quickly i reattached the return hose to the reservoir. Still felt like maybe 25% power steering assist, i tried out the definition of insanity and went lock to lock for 10 minutes as the FSM suggested but no change. Fluid level does appear to go down a little bit at full lock and sometimes i see some tiny bubbles, but i havent had to be adding any fluid. Pump does groan while turning and groans louder at full lock. Fluid has never been foamy.

When I drained the reservoir earlier today so i could pull the return hose off and do the FSM flushing method, the fluid that came out looked really pretty. I want to think it's just from having fresh components getting broken in to the system but it seems suspicious.

More and more i'm just thinking the pump has failed.

When i started it for the very first time after installing the pump and filling it up (yesterday), turning lock to lock a few times and then driving it, it felt pretty good and the power assist was good but it went out after going full lock around a roundabout and i havent been able to get it to come back as good since. not even after this full fancy flush, it didnt feel as good as it did after the very first start up. It makes me think something failed

I am giving up for now because i literally dont know what else to try, so i'm hoping someone has some brilliant advice or having the truck sit makes something magical happen.

 

[jht3]

you have mentioned a couple times that after turning to full lock, something is off. is it not returning to center? or does it feel like it isn't assisting enough?

i replaced the pump and hoses on my '95 in my driveway. seems like the design changed, but i didn't do anything fancy during the refill procedure. got the front end off the ground, filled it up can cap on, ran engine while turning lock to lock, let it sit overnight, and checked level in am. definitely no chicken waving overhead required.

good luck!

 

[Demonic92]

you have mentioned a couple times that after turning to full lock, something is off. is it not returning to center? or does it feel like it isn't assisting enough?

i replaced the pump and hoses on my '95 in my driveway. seems like the design changed, but i didn't do anything fancy during the refill procedure. got the front end off the ground, filled it up can cap on, ran engine while turning lock to lock, let it sit overnight, and checked level in am. definitely no chicken waving overhead required.

good luck!

It's not assisting enough at all, at any point in turning. To the point where i can't really drive it because i need the oncoming lane to make a turn. I think my pump is bad or maybe my steering gearbox decided to go out at this opportune time. City Racer is sending me a new pump, but I'd like to be able to diagnose if my gearbox or pump are bad for sure. Any pointers? Still didnt feel good this afternoon after sitting overnight and then some.

 

[Demonic92]

I dont have FSM on me right now but there's a specification for how much force should be needed to turn the wheel with power steering... i used a spring scale and it takes about 2.5lbs to get the steering wheel moving and 5lbs to actually turn the wheels... took it on a test drive again because i'm stubborn and doing a 3-point turn was quite the workout. It's just consistently bad at this point, so something must have failed.

 

[jht3]

my hunch says you got a bad pump

sucks to have to do the job again. wouldn't be the first time. once had to install three clutch master cylinders in a BMW. all new in box but each worse than the one i was trying to replace. and caused unnecessary checking of clutch components and gearbox.