Power Steering line replacement - $1,400?

[Zakowsky]

Seriously, that is what they want in Canada for an LX470 high and low line set. Mine has a pinhole leak in the short low pressure part of the line that runs along the cross member, and I plan on just replacing that rubber section. I've taken off the leaking one, it was attached at the arrow.

But now I am finding, as many others have it seems, that 10 mm ATF safe line is hard to find. I was wondering what people have used for this. When I relocated my power steering reservoir to put in the second battery, buddy at Auto Value sold me Continental SAE J30R7 Fuel/Emission 3/8" tubing and said it would be fine with ATF. Some websites agree with this and in fact, it has been running with ATF for years with no problems. But now I read I need ATF transmission coolant line rated, and there is the 10 mm vs 3/8" (9.5 mm) issue.

As availability is limited here, and I need to fix this asap - has anyone else used J30R7? And some say 9.5 mm is close enough. Or is 10 mm ATF rated critical here? I can't see ever buying the OEM part at that price…


Thanks.

Edit: Hah, I just searched Amazon for 10 mm transmission coolant hose, and there are products that are called 3/8" (10mm) SAE 30R7 Transmission Coolant lines. Who can you trust...

 

[Rednexus]

I would use basic 3/8" transmission cooler line. Here in the states Gates-branded line is sold by the foot at most any auto parts store. You'll have to work a bit more to slide it over the hose barb than 10 mm line as it's 0.5 mm smaller on diameter than the 10 mm line. But, I was able to replace all of my trans lines and many of my PS lines with the 3/8" Gates transmission line, and they've been fine for thousands of miles.

I would NOT use 3/8" fuel/emissions line as it's intended for a different application.

 

[Zakowsky]

Thanks Red - I actually found a place in town this morning that sells Gates - they sell it by the inch here! But picking some up and using that. I'll probably replace the reservoir extension I put in as well. Cheers.

 

[FxFormat]

Trans line and some small worm clamps, easy fix, don't over think it.

 

[2001LC]

I use factory clamps, with 3/8" A/T cooler hose. If replacement 3/8" A/T cooler hose, thick walled. That is to say; hose OD large enough, so factory clamp fits tight around hose. Otherwise I use fuel line hose clamps. They give equal pressure around hose onto pipe. Without biting into rubber.
SAE15 work, on most 3/8" A/T cooler hose. The large SAE 16 are bit large. But these 3/8" vary in wall thickness, so I have both in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07368R9YZ/?tag=ihco-20

 

[Zakowsky]

Don't over think it - that's exactly what I have been doing! I got the transmission line, Gates 3/8". It's cold in my garage these days so I had to warm the tubing up with a heat gun a bit to force it on, but at least it is on tight. As far as clamps, yes it is a lot thinner - if you look at the stock part it is actually (almost) the same tubing as the Gates with a second wall of normal rubber around it. Looking through my well organized but generally completely useless junk I have been saving for decades I found a piece of rubber hose which had the same inside diameter as the Gates outside diameter, but a super thin wall. Slipping that over the Gates line made it basically exactly like the original hose, and the original clamps fit perfectly. So job done, and no leaks now!

I did (am still) concerned about the pump though. It still sounded horrible and barely worked, and I thought I had damaged it by running it dry on my way home. But I jacked the front up and ran the engine for like 30 minutes, moving the steering lock to lock slowly and it finally worked the air out. It sounds basically the same now as it did before, but I am going to watch it for a few weeks and make sure. Thanks again.