Power steering install issues on my 1978 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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78fj40mg

TLCA #23510
Joined
Sep 13, 2008
Threads
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4,063
Location
PNW, WA.
Website
forum.ih8mud.com
I've been wanting to add power steering for several years now and finally I pulled the trigger and purchased the required components out of an FJ60 from orangefj45 Georg @ valley hybrids.


First installed the PS pump bracket which fits like a glove since my 2F engine has all the required threaded mounting holes for a seamless install, it looks factory.
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Next installed the PS pump and high pressure (supply) hose, the low pressure (return) hose will be connected down the road after I fab a cooling system for the ATF fluid which the PS system uses
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The air intake heat riser had to be disconnected temporarily to facilitate the PS connections
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Also installed the PS pump pulley
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Belts Clarification

The belts will need upgrading for this install as follows:

For the PS belt 'C' is required that drives the PS and alternator as depicted below, the alternator is the belt adjustment point.
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For the water pump belt a smog pump or an idler/adjustment pulley is required to install belt 'B' as depicted below, the smog pump is the belt adjustment point. A new 13 x 1060 belt will be used.
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Since my truck came with a smog pump and associated bracket and hardware will be used it in this install, however, it will not be piped to the emissions system.

I will modify the air/smog pump to supply forced air into the carb air cleaner box, and install an air filter on the suction side of the pump to clean the air.

Piping system

I modified an old PS ATF fluid cooler to fit my 40 as depicted below;

I had to modify the cooler mounting bracket, this is the initial mock up it will be removed and painted prior to final installation and connections. This cooler is connected in series to the low pressure (return) piping system.
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Next I will be removing the DS fender to allow for removal of the manual steering box and installation of the new PS gear box.

New PS gear box
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To be continued
 
Sorry for the sidetrack but... Your manifold heat shield looks brand new. Did you make it or buy it or just get lucky and it came like that?
 
After fooling with this Pittman arm for almost a week last night I cleaned it and decided to install it with its existing arm, although it's about 3 to 4 inches shorter than the one I currently have on my manual steering box. If the short arm becomes an issue for me I will then try the removal process again.

Pittman arm saga here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pittman-arm-woes-help-please.836009/


Update:
Pit-Arm has finally been removed!

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Now back to some real work on the PS system install.
 
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Sorry for the sidetrack but... Your manifold heat shield looks brand new. Did you make it or buy it or just get lucky and it came like that?

You are seeing the good part, unfortunately it's shredded on the other side which I'm planning to trim with scissors.
 
I jus went thru this upgrade on my '74. We had to remove the rag, joint use a Borgeson universal coupling between the PS box and column and had to install a bushing at the firewall to keep the steering column centered.

I LOVE MY POWER STEERING.
 
I jus went thru this upgrade on my '74. We had to remove the rag, joint use a Borgeson universal coupling between the PS box and column and had to install a bushing at the firewall to keep the steering column centered.

I LOVE MY POWER STEERING.

Looks like he is using a 40 or mini truck box so he wont need to do either of those.
 
45 years this year as a 40 owner and never had power steering ,nice write up
 
Pit-Arm has finally been removed, now is back to some real work on the PS system install!

Stay tuned as I catch my breath.
 
No, I removed it a while back and replaced it with FJ40Jim's idler.

Congrats on getting the Pittman off!

Thanks! FJ40Jim's idler? do you have any info or pics? I'd prefer an idler rather than using the air pump.
 
Thanks! FJ40Jim's idler? do you have any info or pics? I'd prefer an idler rather than using the air pump.

No pics - can't get decent pics in there. I bought Jim's desmog kit that included plugs for the air rail holes and BVSVs, caps for a couple of air cleaner ports and the idler --> Jim Chenoweth

Or you can de-vane your smog pump and leave it in place, but I wanted to keep my air pump... just in case I have to re-smog some day...
 
That's the one! I had a hard time getting it to stay tight, so I made a brace that fits over the idler-handle and attaches to (IIRC) the smog pump attachment point. It keeps the idler tight.
 
Do you recommend it as is?


Yes... Because, I know, had I taken the time to report my difficulties in keeping it tight, back to @FJ40Jim, he would have come up with a solution. Instead of bothering Jim, I came up with a simple method of keeping it tight.

It may not be an issue for you... it could simply be the way my belts are routed.

hth
 
Today I had some spare time to work on the PS system, I finished installing the PS pulley, also installed the belt and quickly discovered that the belt is in contact with the upper rad hose, so at this point I'm stuck. Does anyone know of a solution for this problem?

I'm using an FJ60 pump and mounting bracket.

I'd appreciate any help to resolve this problem.

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The belt is loose as a goose, if I tighten more it digs in the rad hose
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Mike,

I only see one belt - is there another belt in use?

Can you use one belt for ALT-WP-CRANK and one for PSPump-WP-CRANK?

Would that help?

Assuming you don't have a Smog Pump or Air Conditioning.

hth
 
I have the feeling that running your alternator and your power steering pump off the same belt is a lot of load and that is a long run between the alternator and steering pump. Get rid of that smog pump. Relocate your power steering pump to line up with the pulley that your smog pump ran on. You would be surprised how much load there is from a steering pump when your in deep mud or a ditch and want to turn the wheel when you are not moving. With my suggestion you get about 3/4 belt contact to the pulley then you will not have to run it so tight. A tight belt takes a lot of horse power and it will wear our bearings faster.
 

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