Re-reading the requirement I just posted, it sounds like it should actually work in any position, so long as you have the temp set to HI (85F+) and the ambient temp outside is cool enough
Positive Temperature Coefficient Heater? 2015 200
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That's how it seemed to work to me as well.
Tested it this morning at 18 degrees outside. It wasn't at all blowing toasty warm air, but it was definitely doing something. Enough to see the snow against the windshield start to melt slightly.. not that it would have worked through the 14" of snow.. but it was doing something well before there was any heat in the coolant.
Maybe this should make it into doug's "quirks and features" list for the 200.
Maybe this should make it into doug's "quirks and features" list for the 200.
1 quirk to 25 fidgets?
Double checked this and seems i did have to turn the "thermostat" to Hi.
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25 fidgets equals two sweaty t-shirts
tried this today on a 2009 LX. Temp to Hi. Turn off 4 position controls. Fan on 2 or 3, don't remember, but it wasn't hi. Turn off AC. Direction to face. was blowing hot air around the same time the seat heater (set to max) was really getting warm.
Got a faint electric heater that isn't used often smell from it as well, which I took as a good sign, as I know I haven't used this setting combination before.
Temp to Hi is such a PITA on a touchscreen, would work much easier on a 70s style slider control.
It stayed on the electric heater long after the coolant temp was up, I had to put back in auto (and run the temp back to 71), at which point it ramped the fan to max, and started to function as normal (foot vents, etc)
Got a faint electric heater that isn't used often smell from it as well, which I took as a good sign, as I know I haven't used this setting combination before.
Temp to Hi is such a PITA on a touchscreen, would work much easier on a 70s style slider control.
It stayed on the electric heater long after the coolant temp was up, I had to put back in auto (and run the temp back to 71), at which point it ramped the fan to max, and started to function as normal (foot vents, etc)
I still have yet to feel this work effectively.
I used this again yesterday, it does push warm air faster than the regular HVAC, but not a lot faster, maybe 2 minutes or so.
Concur, definitely starts pushing warmish air 3-5 min faster than the beater core does.
Mine works but isn’t mind blowing. Still, in some conditions basically any warmth is welcome.
I've never had to do all this to get a window defrosted!
In all cars I've owned, the last few: 2008 Touareg V8, 2015 Audi RS5, 2020 Macan S and 2021 992C4S, you select defrost (front or back) and that's it. You didn't need to futz with 16 settings of fan, temp, a/c etc. I'm having the frosted window issue where the pin on the recirc shroud was suspected so I will try that, I live 20 NW of Fairbanks about 100 odd miles from the arctic circle, so yes, this is a big deal for me.
siberian
In all cars I've owned, the last few: 2008 Touareg V8, 2015 Audi RS5, 2020 Macan S and 2021 992C4S, you select defrost (front or back) and that's it. You didn't need to futz with 16 settings of fan, temp, a/c etc. I'm having the frosted window issue where the pin on the recirc shroud was suspected so I will try that, I live 20 NW of Fairbanks about 100 odd miles from the arctic circle, so yes, this is a big deal for me.
siberian
Not sure if you have 120v AC power where you are, but I get around all this by plugging in the old fashion way - with block and battery heaters. Quick heat. I also have a Webasto cabin heater (runs on fuel from the tank) to heat coolant and cabin when I can’t plug in.
Thanks for your reply and yes I do have 120 a/c (and a backup Honda eu7000 generator with a transfer switch).
Of course, Homer is a wee bit south of us but yes as we speak, I had the car winterized (meaning battery, oil and tranny pan electric blanket) but for the most part the car is in a heated garage. The issue arises when I take the car out. It's 50s in the garage and -35 or -40 outside. The window instantly freezes over - don't have that with my other two cars. Very familiar with Webasto (had a Westphalia camper when we lived in Europe and it definitely helped with air cooled engine) but my "beef" was with the number of manipulations required (disable A/C, fan on Max, outside air selection, heat to max...) vs simply pressing DEFROST and presto.
Best from 65 North
siberian
PS FWIW, Porsche, VW, Audi and Toyota do not recommend block heaters due to potential fire danger
Of course, Homer is a wee bit south of us but yes as we speak, I had the car winterized (meaning battery, oil and tranny pan electric blanket) but for the most part the car is in a heated garage. The issue arises when I take the car out. It's 50s in the garage and -35 or -40 outside. The window instantly freezes over - don't have that with my other two cars. Very familiar with Webasto (had a Westphalia camper when we lived in Europe and it definitely helped with air cooled engine) but my "beef" was with the number of manipulations required (disable A/C, fan on Max, outside air selection, heat to max...) vs simply pressing DEFROST and presto.
Best from 65 North
siberian
PS FWIW, Porsche, VW, Audi and Toyota do not recommend block heaters due to potential fire danger
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Regarding Toyota and block heaters, that recommendation was only for the 200 due to Toyota’s OEM vendor making a bad cord for the cartridge heater. Buy a KATS brand cartridge heater and you will have zero issues.
I spent a lot of years in Fairbanks going to undergraduate and graduate school at the Geophysical Institute. Also lived a long time in Paxson. So, yeah, cold.
@stonepa thanks for your input; Paxson that's cold. Give a holler if you ever drive up here.
Winterized it without the block heater; given the car is mostly indoors as long as the battery, oil (Mobil1 0w-40) and tranny are toasty should be fine. My skid steer is disel and yes that has a block heater and is permanently on a trickle charger. By 40 below I let the block heater run for a minimum of 4-5 hours and 15 minutes idling before putting any pressure on the hydraulics for my 86" Erskine snowblower.
As it is, my car doesn't have a PTC but the heater has to be set to MAX (beyond 83F) which means by the time the windshield defrosts you're roasted.
Thank you all for your help!
siberian
Winterized it without the block heater; given the car is mostly indoors as long as the battery, oil (Mobil1 0w-40) and tranny are toasty should be fine. My skid steer is disel and yes that has a block heater and is permanently on a trickle charger. By 40 below I let the block heater run for a minimum of 4-5 hours and 15 minutes idling before putting any pressure on the hydraulics for my 86" Erskine snowblower.
As it is, my car doesn't have a PTC but the heater has to be set to MAX (beyond 83F) which means by the time the windshield defrosts you're roasted.
Thank you all for your help!
siberian