PO401 and EGR/air intake manifold with pictures

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Great post! does any one have current part numbers for the valves and switches.
Here is what I got so far:

25620-66011Egr Valve
25627-66010Egr Valve Gasket

25870-66011Modulator
25701-66011Vacuum Valve I think I have
90910-12079 Vacuum Switch Valve

Hose Vacuum - Toyota (90999-92003)
Vacuum Hose
Part Number: 90999-92004

Hose Vacuum - Toyota (90999-92006)
Hose Vacuum - Toyota (90999-92007)
Hose Vacuum - Toyota (90999-92008)

Hose E.G.R Vacuum M - Toyota (25695-66010)
Hose Fuel - Toyota (95337-06020)
Hose Fuel - Toyota (95333-06010)

Vaccum Switching Valve - 90910-1207
Check Valve-
Vacuum Control Valve- 25701-66011
Vacuum Switching Valve

Let me know if I'm missing anything? I have a FZJ80 1997.
Thanks in advance
 
I'd add the Throttle Body Gasket 22271-66010 just because it's probably coming off. I just did this and found unlinking the control cables, particularly for the one underneath (throttle cable?) AFTER I'd removed the four TB bolts (15 ft-lbf on reinstall) made my life much easier. I was happy I'd listened to advice to mark the cables/nuts on the passenger side -- because they like to rotate when the cables are loosened from the bracket.
 
Thanks for the great information on the ERG! I was getting a P0402 error almost every day. Yesterday I finished removing the upper intake and cleaned out the intake plenum. The ERG port from the ERG to the throttle body was clogged with Blake carbon deposit. Now the 80 accelerates so much better and no more check engine light.
 
I agree, this thread (and a few associated with Fuel Injector cleaning) have been continually valuable for me. If you have the time and just a bit more funds, the fuel injector step is really worth it. I had three that were dripping visibly and I was certain I'd be buying a few new ones. But RC returned all six in what looked like brand new condition. If you go that route, get the injector plug kit (90980-11153 or from Ballenger Motorsport Item CONN-75971), as the backshells are so brittle, they'll likely break on disassembly. And fiddling with them to remove the contacts can cause more damage to the contact than just cracking them like walnuts and putting the existing contacts into new plugs.
 

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Thought this might be helpful to some. This is the part numbers and project list that I used for completing this job.
My vehicle 1997 fzj80
P0401 code rabbit hole



EGR and Vacuum



Fuel Hose- 95333-06010

water bypass hose- 16261-66040

water bypass hose- 16264-66021

water bypass hose- 16267-66020

EGR vacuum hose- 25695-66010

Check Valve- 90917-10049

connector housing- 90980-11153

3 Way- 90413-04019

Vacuum Switch Valve- 90910-12079

Valve- 90910-12043

Vacuum hose- 90999-92006

Vacuum hose- 90999-92007

Vacuum control valve- 90925-03192

Throttle bod Gasket- 22271-66010

Intake Manifold gasket- 17179-66010

Intake Manifold gasket- 17171-66010

EGR Valve Assy- 25620-66011

EGR Valve Gasket- 25627-66010

Fuel Filter- 23300-69045

Vacuum Valve Assy- 44730-28010

EGR Valve Assy- 25870-66011



Brake booster vacuum hose- 44773-60150

Check valve grommet- 90480-24015 Wits End $90

Brake Booster check Valve- 44730-28010



Injectors



Junkyard 1996 fzj80 injectors- $80 For ALL 6 injectors

RC Fuel Injection Inc. www.rcfuelinjection.com

$168 for cleaning and calibrate plus $5-$10 for shipping



Power Steering



Power Steering pump- 44320-60182

Steering gear box- Craigslist find for $100

Steering gear box rebuild Pacific Exchange

818-703-0821 $175

power steering Cooler Amazon Derale 13260 $66

Gates Pressure Hose 365550 $47

Because i broke the old gear-

Vane pump gear- 44316-60020 $158

Gear nut- 90179-14009 $3



Gates Steering hose 361970

Gates Steering hose 361970

4ea 3/8’s hose clamps



Gates 5/8’s steering hose

2ea 5/8 constant hose clamps

ATF fluid



150amp Alternator upgrade



Junkyard Sequoia Alternator $35

Alternator rebuild Pacific Exchange

818-703-0821 $100

photoman Alternator bracket $180

idler pulley- 16603-66010 $51

Alternator bracket nut- 90179-08040

DelCity.net $159

2ga battery cable 25ft

Shrink tubing

200amp Blue Sea circuit breaker 285 $81

2ga battery lugs 4ea $11

Military post $23

Fuse link $15

high heat electrical tape

high heat TechFlex F6


Project odds and ends Tools Etc…

$300
 
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I would have to agree. $300 for parts isn't a waste in my book either. Even if none of it was needed to pass smog and the only thing that was required was to clear a passage in the intake manifold. The time it takes to get take it apart makes it worth replacing even if not necessary. If something happens to fail just after you button it up you would be kicking yourself unless you have lots of time on your hand and it isn't a vehicle you need operational. Mine is a DD.

Doing the work yourself also saves money too. If you end up having a shop do it for you it would be way more than 300 bucks and no knowing what kind of havoc they did in stripped bolts, quick fixes and what not just to get the job done. I am not against figuring out which part is bad and replacing that component, but for those who can't figure it out and still get it fixed by replacing more than is needed - it is still good work on their part in my book :). I am not sure which part failed me either. I suspect the VSV as well but know my EGR valve was shot and didn't function per FSM. I am glad I didn't stop at the EGR.

It has been six years since I did this and just passed smog again this week with flying colors. Glad to see others have been finding this useful.
 
I think I crawled underneath with a couple extensions. I also taped the extension and socket so they would not pull apart. But the hardest part was putting that bolt back in so electrical tape will be your friend to do this job.
 
finally got it out yes two extension 2 wobbles,i used a 6pt impact socket so it would lock onto the bolt better,a couple of naughty words as well did the trick.
thanks
 
fz1boxer said:
finally got it out yes two extension 2 wobbles,i used a 6pt impact socket so it would lock onto the bolt better,a couple of naughty words as well did the trick.
thanks
Click to expand...
While you have every thing off it's a good time to replace the fuel filter, vacuum hoses, and replace the psky heater hose
 
planning on doing the above,already did the fuel filter shortly after purchase,it was nasty,pulled the injectors and they are in a local shop getting refurb,all the ear and pair is gone as well as the vacuum lines under the plenum.
fun stuff 2 banana's
 
taking notes here but want to get this thing registered so trying to just temporarily clear the P0401 code. anyone able to show me the two ports that need to be cleaned of carbon with these pics?
i guess it is the EGR port and the small passage/vacuum port that runs though the intake plenum? with the first requiring removal of the throttle body? do you need to take off the intake plenum to clear that small port?
 
landcruiser3DP said:
taking notes here but want to get this thing registered so trying to just temporarily clear the P0401 code. anyone able to show me the two ports that need to be cleaned of carbon with these pics?
i guess it is the EGR port and the small passage/vacuum port that runs though the intake plenum? with the first requiring removal of the throttle body? do you need to take off the intake plenum to clear that small port?
Click to expand...
You can try to remove the throttle body and you will see a port on the top section of the intake. Only thing is that you might push the carbon deposit back into the intake plenum and cause more problems.
 
Hopefully this picture helps.

ERG Port.webp
 
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