Plastigauge help

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Straightfarkin

Straightfarkin

Joined
Aug 15, 2021
Threads
8
Messages
20
Location
Qld
1995 1HZ turbod by Previous Owner
375k 5 spd manual intercooled 12psi Max 109HP never seen EGTs over 450
New pretty much everything except internal engine parts.

I am going to replace my BEB's as a precaution for a long trip acroas QLD and have been reading through the many not another BEB threads looking to clarify the exact process of bearing size and use of the plastigauge.

I had already purchased some ACL bearings not knowing there was different sizes.
Once I drop the sump and rod bolts to do the job I can't measure them and wait for new ones to arrive if the ones I have aren't correct. I will be replacing new con rod bolts also

What are my options in this situation?
Any way to tell before dropping sump?
Should I buy the other 2 sizes beforehand use the ones I need and sell others after?

Appreciate any help, cheers
 
There is no way to tell which size bearings you'll need until you measure them. The other consideration is that you may have to polish or even grind the crankshaft journals, if they are not in reusable condition, which is usually the case when the bottom end is rebuilt. That's not possible with the crankshaft in situ.

I guess my concern is that your description sounds like you are planning to replace the rod bearings, with the crankshaft installed, but not the crankshaft bearings. If the rod bearings need to be replaced, chances are very good the crankshaft main bearings need to be replaced also. I don't know how you do that without removing the crankshaft.

The bottom ends of these engines are typically very solid. Can you provide more information on why you feel the need to rebuild the bottom end?
 
Yes correct I was planning on replacing just the BEB's and bolts from the bottom of the vehicle by just removing the sump, sender and steering arms for access.

My reasoning is just from paranoia due to not knowing how long ago the vehicle was turbod and its service history as the PO didn't even know what types of oil he was putting in and at what intervals. I figured as it is the only thing I have heard on these engines that can cause catastrophic failure after Being turbod and is more often a 1hdt problem if I can easily do it by removing my sump provided I have the right size bearings at home I won't have to worry about a many thousand kms trip around the outback.

Maybe I am overreacting.

Thanks Malleus
 
I think this is a problem with the early 1HD-T engines. I think the bearing material or design problem was corrected by about 1993 - maybe someone can confirm that. As far as 1HZ bottom end bearing concerns I never heard of a problem but then again only the aussies seem to get them.

The other thing is that BEB failure is a rare problem that no one can definitively attribute statistics which would constiute a technical concern, let alone the hysteria.

Also this question should maybe be posted in the Diesel section - it just confuses the gasser guys..
 
Malleus said:
There is no way to tell which size bearings you'll need until you measure them. The other consideration is that you may have to polish or even grind the crankshaft journals, if they are not in reusable condition, which is usually the case when the bottom end is rebuilt. That's not possible with the crankshaft in situ.

I guess my concern is that your description sounds like you are planning to replace the rod bearings, with the crankshaft installed, but not the crankshaft bearings. If the rod bearings need to be replaced, chances are very good the crankshaft main bearings need to be replaced also. I don't know how you do that without removing the crankshaft.

The bottom ends of these engines are typically very solid. Can you provide more information on why you feel the need to rebuild the bottom end?
Click to expand...
Do you not just do one at a time and push the "top" half of the bearing around with a plastic push rod (to not score anything)?
Askin as i may one day do this as well
 
Check your oil pressure with a proper gauge if you are concerned, if no issues I would not touch anything on the bottom end. You're not going to be able to properly measure the diameter of the crank journal and may not even have the correct sized bearings. What happens if you break a rod stud when you re-torque them? Or get something wrong? Seems a good chance you cause problems disturbing something which is perfectly fine.

If the engine has low oil pressure at idle or knocks from the bottom end, take it out and do a proper rebuild.
 
bj70bc said:
Do you not just do one at a time and push the "top" half of the bearing around with a plastic push rod (to not score anything)?
Askin as i may one day do this as well
Click to expand...
I'm not saying it's not possible, but I don't think it would be my first choice of methods.
 
Straightfarkin said:
1995 1HZ turbod by Previous Owner
375k 5 spd manual intercooled 12psi Max 109HP never seen EGTs over 450
New pretty much everything except internal engine parts.

I am going to replace my BEB's as a precaution for a long trip acroas QLD and have been reading through the many not another BEB threads looking to clarify the exact process of bearing size and use of the plastigauge.

I had already purchased some ACL bearings not knowing there was different sizes.
Once I drop the sump and rod bolts to do the job I can't measure them and wait for new ones to arrive if the ones I have aren't correct. I will be replacing new con rod bolts also

What are my options in this situation?
Any way to tell before dropping sump?
Should I buy the other 2 sizes beforehand use the ones I need and sell others after?

Appreciate any help, cheers
Click to expand...
Factory Toyota bearings have a number of different sizes which you'll need to open the engine up to check.

ACL/Taiho/most other aftermarket bearings have STD, 0.25 under and 0.50 under. Unless your crank has been ground undersize, STD is what you want.

I've seen a 1HZ recently that had absolutely lunched BEB, it's cheap peace of mind. Just keep everything clinically clean given you're doing it with the engine in the vehicle.
 
Thanks for all replies and in future I will remeber to post in the Diesel section, my bad.

Engine runs like a kitten and had no smoke other than the usual puff on startup only if I don't glow twice.

In terms of the engine components I gave replaced the shims which were all pretty close to spec aside from I think 6 and a few others. I've installed a front mount intercooler, a boost compensator, new "hi flo" injectors (cant remeber brand) new glow plugs, oil and filter change ever 5k and air cleaner and fuel filter every 10k

I have ran new boost, Egt, IAT sensor, Coolant temp sensor, and have ran Oil temp and pressure sensors but not connected them yet as I bought a sandwich plate but decided against using it so waiting on figuring out their connections.

I have no reason as to doing this other than piece of mind and precious stories of BEBs letting go on "these engines". Yes it's generally the 1hdts and the earlier models that have been fixed apparently.

My justification is if I can easily remove a sump and 12 Con rod bolts, slide the little ****ers out and new ones in, replacing new con rod bolts as I mentioned then even of they weren't really shagged I will know they will last another 30+ years.
I will be travelling around Australia in this car towing a 20ft caravan so I do not want this on my mind.. then again maybe I am over reacting? Alot of people say so, and then other diesel mechanics ay work say they've seen them destroy engines.

Thanks again
 
Also, yes I am aware this is a bull**** way to attempt a rebuild on just a single bottom end component. My plan is to have the engine rebuild with forged conrods, ceramic 1Hz turbo pistons etc and all the fun stuff. Crack test my cylinder head and block, have em decked and rebuild or replace the pump with an 11mm aiming for around 200hp. Again this is for piece of mind to be able to do 110kms up a hill with a caravan, roof rack, bullbar rear bar and 33's in the 40⁰C heat, not to build a wank truck for street racing. I did think if I'm going that far I could replace the cylinder head pistons injectors timing cover aswell and convert to a 1hdt but I have ceased thinking down that route.

I don't have the money to do that yet as I am currently already travelling and as mentioned purchased some STD ACL bearings in a panic.
I am in North QLD at the moment and have been told Donnelly in around Brisbane is the best place to do this full rebuild. Any tips from you guys on a reliable engine rebuilder that could do this around North Qld/ Central highlands.

Many thanks again everyone, I appreciate the support and love my 80 🤙😊
 
Last edited:
just doing the bottom end bearings is fine
 
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