Since you have an '06 with the charcoal canister in the rear, there is room for a small back-up start battery between the master cylinder and fuse box. Search member, Rohitash, for ideas.
Planning a dual battery setup and accessories
- Thread starter Anthony.L
- Start date
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The 250's switch is for the high current feeds in the fuse box - you wont have individual circuit control.
The reason for installing the 150A breaker at the battery end is to have the ability to shut power off to the remote fuse block for servicing, plus safety.
My setup incorporates switched relays to control various systems power up.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Details on the switched relays please? Especially the higher amp circuits?
That's my setup. The ruff stuff battery box that I used is actually a little big for the optimas and a little tall. Slightly larger batteries would fit.
Anthony.L said:
Just using some Hella rocker switches tied to relays to have master power control center.
I can post the specific relays later. I've been working on my wiring today... Got controller wired and feed from breaker to rear of LC passed and run.
Hey Rob, feel free to invite me over when you do the rest of this install, I want to see how you do all this wiring
You are also free to use my driveway haha
LJ_24 said:Hey Rob, feel free to invite me over when you do the rest of this install, I want to see how you do all this wiring
You are also free to use my driveway haha
I'll see what we can arrange. I'm pausing the aux battery install too build some drawers which also fit into the electrical scheme.
This style relay (solenoid actually) for the compressor and inverter:
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24059 Continuous Duty Solenoid: Automotive
Other relays for low current applications are Bosch/Tyco 30A.
- Thread starter
- #52
Thanks Christo for chiming in on this thread, always helpful.
Interesting news, haven't seen that warranty detail pointed out to date. What I find weird is Sears rebadges this battery as a "deep cycle marine" battery. Which by it's nature will be dropped below 10v on many occasions.
With that said I will try and keep an eye on it with the IBS monitor and make sure to stay above 10v if at all possible. I agree though, something does go wrong the kid behind the counter at Sears isn't going to care and will exchange it no problem. Along with the big cost savings this is another big advantage to the Sears model.
So you beat me to this idea. My plan was to add a single quick disconnect on the front bumper for the main purpose of attaching jumper cables. However now I'm thinking about adding two quick disconnects on the front bumper, one from each battery. I can then use these for dual purpose. Have one cable setup for jumpers, and another cable setup for charging lead to a AGM battery charger. That way once every month or so I can plug-in each battery to the AGM charger for a full charge or cycle. With the charge lead I can open the garage door and plug in the charger without even unlocking the LC. Pretty handy.
As for AGM battery charger I've been looking at the Odyssey chargers as well as CTEK chargers. The CTEK has a great reputation and reviews.
Interesting news, haven't seen that warranty detail pointed out to date. What I find weird is Sears rebadges this battery as a "deep cycle marine" battery. Which by it's nature will be dropped below 10v on many occasions.
With that said I will try and keep an eye on it with the IBS monitor and make sure to stay above 10v if at all possible. I agree though, something does go wrong the kid behind the counter at Sears isn't going to care and will exchange it no problem. Along with the big cost savings this is another big advantage to the Sears model.
So you beat me to this idea. My plan was to add a single quick disconnect on the front bumper for the main purpose of attaching jumper cables. However now I'm thinking about adding two quick disconnects on the front bumper, one from each battery. I can then use these for dual purpose. Have one cable setup for jumpers, and another cable setup for charging lead to a AGM battery charger. That way once every month or so I can plug-in each battery to the AGM charger for a full charge or cycle. With the charge lead I can open the garage door and plug in the charger without even unlocking the LC. Pretty handy.
As for AGM battery charger I've been looking at the Odyssey chargers as well as CTEK chargers. The CTEK has a great reputation and reviews.
Very Nice!
I like the weather tight connector on the fuse block. Not to mention, it certainly makes it quicker for removing the fuse block if needed.
I like the weather tight connector on the fuse block. Not to mention, it certainly makes it quicker for removing the fuse block if needed.
RobRed,
Thanks so much for this! It is exactly what I was looking for all the way down to the same JL amp that I'm having installed. I just ordered the Safety Hub 100, the 150 amp breaker, and the 12v outlets for the rear area. I'm going to get this stuff wired up exactly like you wired yours so that I can wire my Cobra CB and have the stereo installers connect the amp to the fuse block properly.
RobRed,
Can you give more details why you added the block of wood behind the Safety Hub 100? Is it just to space out into the compartment or is more for a structural reason? Thanks!
The cubby hole has a stepped back wall. There are also screw studs in the cubby mounting to the interior side panel. I used 3 pieces 3/4" birch ply wood scraps stacked, glued and screwed.
Please note I nibbed the main feed terminal protector so I could come in at the same angle as the outputs. I also removed one of the yellow door clips for clearance.
Hopefully these pics help.
Thanks, those pics help a lot. I see what you're saying and the plywood also looks like it takes up some room in the cubby so it's not so deep, easier to change fuses later.
