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- #21
Boston Mangler said:
Kevin,
It comes with 2 DVDs...one each for the west and the east coast.
Pradeep
Pioneer AVIC-D1 GPS install
- Thread starter Options20002001
- Start date
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Kevin,
It comes with 2 DVDs...one each for the west and the east coast.
Pradeep
- Thread starter
- #22
The KSC-SW1 has speaker level inputs so you can connect it in parallel (say) to the L/R rear door speakers or the L/R front door speakers. In my setup the KSC-SW1 is connected through the sub preamp out on the sound processor.BRKLYN1 said:
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- #23
Rob,clarkrw3 said:This is sweet! I have been thinking about doing a set up like this, just haven't got around to it yet. I might wait for the new unit....if it will accept topos...it should with 30g hard drive. How clear are the headrest screens and how easy was the install....are you running a ps2 for the kids?? Don't be surprised if you see something similar when I am up for ROTW
I thought of waiting till the release of AVIC-Z1 but gave in over Christmas due to the rebate plus had time to mess around.
Screens have pretty good resolution...4:3 aspect ratio at 640x480 resolution. Overall a good value for $370/pair. The install was fairly simple for screens. I spent most of the time messing with sound imaging and speaker installation.
There is no permanent install of a video game machine in the truck. There are jacks for quick connections and a power invertor. Kids are allowed to bring either a game cube or a PS2 on long trips.
Pradeep
- Thread starter
- #24
AVIC-N2 is a single din. I wanted a double din for the oem look thus AVIC-D1.PHBeerman said:
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- #26
There is no stock sub in LX450 in the rear panel. I had to run all the wiring and the preamp input. Perhaps, someone else can chime in about the wiring harness in a LC.BRKLYN1 said:
How do you have the KSC-SW1 secured behind the rear panel?
I like the nice clean install of the Kenwood subwoofer, but isnt that going to rattle the plastic panel inside the truck and the outside sheetmetal? Also, what is the speaker in the second pic that looks like it covering the subwoofer? I just googled the Kenwood and the price isnt bad at all if it has decent sound.
Passive radiator, I believe, if it is, it is not powered.Montana Cruiser said:
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- #31
KC Cruiser said:
The mounting wasn't easy but this is the way I went about it. The sub depth allows it to mount in the rear panel. However, there is no built in bracket (at least LX450) plus one must insure that there is no rattle at decent bass.BRKLYN1 said:
- I cut a 1/4 inch plywood piece that would fit in the opening and big enough to house the sub and the CD changer (see pic below).
- Mounted the sub and the CD changer on the plywood. Screws point out and are secured by nuts.
- Screwed in a 2x4 piece (with 2.5 inch wood screws) along the center of the plywood. This 2x4 piece would act as the main support bar.
- Then screwed in steel brackets (hurricane/storm brackets) at each end of the support bar.
- Applied three layers of Dynamat extreme on the sheet metal....behind where the plywood would go.
- The plywood (with sub and changer already mounted) was then ready for installation in the rear panel opening. The "storm" brackets would go behind the top and bottom "lip" in the rear panel opening (almost wedged in).
- Secured the brackets with screws (and nuts) that go through the holes in the lips at the top and bottom. (see pic below). I had to drill these holes.
- I installed additional brackets on the right side of the sub and secured them with screws. These screws are visible in the picture.
The subwoofer is installed on a plywood and is secured with a 2x4 bar on one end and metal brackets on the other. It is very secure. Also, I put three layers of Dynamat extreme behind the plywood to reduce noise distortion.Montana Cruiser said:
The cut off frequency is set around 60 Hz and the level is at slightly more than half. There is no rattle or distortion at these settings. You can feel the sheetmetal vibrate if you put your hand over the right rear fender. However, I can also make the sheetmetal (visibally) vibrate if the level is increased to max.
If I had to do it again...I would go with 1/2 inch plywood and would probably put a wood bar on the right side too (instead of metal brackets). I believe this would further reduce (any) rattle at higher level, if needed.
The sub in my setup is supposed to provide enough bass (just the low frequencies). It's not intended to make the truck shake. There is sufficient bass from the front door woofers (front door component set up). I have six speakers for the front L/R, four speakers wired in as center channel, four speakers as the rear L/R plus two subs (oem sub in the front center console plus Kenwood in the back). Thus, overall sound quality is very good across the audible range.
The Kenwood sub is good for folks who want decent bass and do not want to sacrifice any real estate in the truck. If louder bass is desired then Kenwood is definitely not the right sub. Basslink or one within an enclosure would be the recommended choice for more powerfull bass.
Kenwood has two has one powered and one passive. The max power is 150 W. You see both of them in the picture.firetruck41 said:
Thank you! You have made it clear. I will now go get the sub and will take your advice on the install plus you’re “if I whir to do it again tips”. I think it will kenwood will fill the base gaps in my truck for my needs. I plan to use the stock head unit for the low key look. again thanks for pictures and info
