Pinion flange swap????? '66 to '77

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I've got a 11/76 front axle that I'm swapping into a '66 FJ40. The pinion flange is different. Can I swap my '66 pinion into this axle or are the splines different? If they are not swappable, can't I just use the front piece of a 4 speed driveshaft and not change out the pinion flange?
Thanks,
Ed
 
yes and yes,

however, the 76 has disk brakes that will add a bit of stopping power to your truck.

did you look in to booster kits?
 
flanges interchange (identical splines) but Mace is correct on brake changes....probably want to add a bigger booster and a different master.
 
Well I was going to swap the S-10 Master like Mike Smythe's Tech article. I don't want to cut my firewall brace. Mike says that it works fine, unboosted. I'll fit all new brakelines.
Anybody think unboosted will be a problem? I've been getting along with unboosted drums.
Thanks,
Ed
 
when you swap-out a pinion flange...are you affecting the ring/pinion alignment?

Or once the 3rd member is set (before swap), the pinion flange may be swapped and simply re-torqued to spec?

thanks,
manny 72fj40
 
It takes more pressure to stop a disc than a drum. You will DEFINITELY notice the brakes don't stop as well if you put together an unboosted disc. My .02
 
Good to know BEFORE I get to that part. Mark do you know of a good boosted setup that will work without butchering up my firewall? Seems like Wardens made an adapter to set everything out from the firewall, but then I'll run into problems with space? I can make an adapter, but is there a smaller booster/MC combo that you know of?
Spaceghost says he has good stopping power with his S-10 setup, but he has discs on all four wheels.
Ed
 
I guess I should add that I'm omly trying to stop 31's and I run a '74 F with a 2F aircleaner.
No smog stuff, header, PS and HEI. Not that all that makes a huge difference, but the aircleaner does in terms of space.
Ed
 
mr_manny said:
when you swap-out a pinion flange...are you affecting the ring/pinion alignment?

Or once the 3rd member is set (before swap), the pinion flange may be swapped and simply re-torqued to spec?

thanks,
manny 72fj40

No, and more importantly the pinion preload doesn't change either. That is the beauty of shims. Just swap flanges and torque the nut and stake it.
 
65swb45 said:
It takes more pressure to stop a disc than a drum. You will DEFINITELY notice the brakes don't stop as well if you put together an unboosted disc. My .02


That all depends on if it is a balanced system or not.

All boost does is allow you to run a disproportionate braking system. Most of the formula 1 guys do not run boosters. If the ssytem is balanced well a booster is not needed.

That being said. a boosted system does allow more "slop"
 
Additional pressure is required for the disks, hence the reason for the difference in pedal ratios. Don't recall if I updated the tech info after running the s-10 setup for a while. I did drill a new hole lower in the pedal to increase the pressure. This lowered the rod attachment point and increased pressure. Found the need to do this with the 38" tires.

If you desire an assisted pedal feel, a manual master will not provide this. I went from manual drums to the wardens adapter/mini boosted master and hated it. Pedal was way too touchy for me, overboosted actually. The S-10 was a manual disk setup and gave me back the pedal feel I was looking for.

This is not for everyone. Since then, and after dedicating my rig to a full on comp rig, I have modified my firewall and installed the Wilwood manual 3 master pedals. This setup has the correct pedal ratio, and the balancing from front to rear is done by master bore selection, and the adjustable balance bar. No prop valves or residual are used.

This firewall mod was easier than I had previously thought, and frankly I would do it again on a street rig (drum cruiser) to get updated braking.

I also found that that using a seat of the pants/lock up test became useless once I went to the Krawlers, and again when I went to the "red" Krawlers. Funny how little traction the swampers actually provide!
 
Pin_Head said:
No, and more importantly the pinion preload doesn't change either. That is the beauty of shims. Just swap flanges and torque the nut and stake it.

Thanks for the education,
manny 72fj40
 
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