Pilot Bearing ?

[Blue60]

Getting ready to do the clutch, rear seal, etc.

Could somebody please confirm that the input shaft bearing and the pilot bearing are indeed the same bearing just different names?

Best way to pull the bearing, something I can get at an auto parts store, or sears...

Rear seal....something I can pry/pick out, can I just tap it back in with a plastic hammer?

Toyota sure makes a lot of SST's

Cheers,

Dave

 

[Dave E]

I beleive they are two seperate bearings. They are both on the input shaft, but in different locations. The pilot bearing is located in the flywheel. The input shaft bearing is located in the transmission.


Dave

 

[Pin_Head]

Getting ready to do the clutch, rear seal, etc.

Could somebody please confirm that the input shaft bearing and the pilot bearing are indeed the same bearing just different names?

Best way to pull the bearing, something I can get at an auto parts store, or sears...

Rear seal....something I can pry/pick out, can I just tap it back in with a plastic hammer?

Toyota sure makes a lot of SST's

Cheers,

Dave

The bearings are indeed different and you don't want to change the input bearing.

Best way to pull the pilot is with a SST. You can make your own for $0.39. Get a 3/8 x 6 inch carriage bolt and gring away one side of the head so that it just fits in the pilot hole. Wedge it in with a sheet metal screw or pencil so it won't pull out. Put your hub socket over the threaded part, add a nut ans washer and crank it out.

You can just pry out the rear main seal and tap a new one in if you are careful.

 

[orangefj45]

or use a pilot bearing puller. you can "rent" them from autozone, or buy one. i have a snap-on model and they work very well.
i do like pinheads setup. pretty cool, and looks like it ought to work just as well.

make sure you lubricate the new pilot properly. if it's a bearing, put some marine (waterproof trailer) grease on it. if it's a bushing, soak it in motoroil over night. DO NOT put grease on a pilot bushing, it will clog the microscopic pores in the "oillite" material and cause premature bushing failure.
and if you have a choice of either, i'd recommend going with the bushing. they last just about forever if installed and lubricated properly, and can not do any harm. if a pilot bearing fails, you normally have to replace the input shaft of the transmission cause the surface where the pilot bearing rides will get wiped out.
just my $.02 worth. from a newbie fawker!

 

[65swb45]

I have NEVER seen a stock 6 pilot bearing damage a tranny imput shaft. Usually as soon as the pilot starts to fail, it generates an enormous amount of heat that pretty well welds the inner race of the bearing to the shaft, thereby protecting it from any scoring. That being said, if the bearing doesn't completely collapse when it fails, getting the tranny out becomes a 1st class PITA!

Put your best effort into your very first attempt. If the puller starts to slip, stop and reset it. You dont want to round off the edges of the puller or worse yet, the bearing. I have had two pilots that collapsed on the puller. Took a tungsten carbide bit to cut the outer race out of the crank. (insert eeek smilie here!)

Hth

 

[Blue60]

Thanks

All good insight...precisely what I was looking for with respect to "hands-on" knowledge and "been there - done that" experience. I'm going to check the clutch kit box I bought from Robert at Liquid Offroad...I could have sworn that the small bearing is labeled as the input shaft bearing...will let you know...Thanks again!

Cheers, and Keep on Cruising!

Dave

 

[Recon1504]

If the pilot bearing comes apart before you get it out, you will have a heck of a time getting the outer race out. I tried the carriage bolt SST on my second clutch job and it worked great.

 

[orangefj45]

I have NEVER seen a stock 6 pilot bearing damage a tranny imput shaft. Usually as soon as the pilot starts to fail, it generates an enormous amount of heat that pretty well welds the inner race of the bearing to the shaft, thereby protecting it from any scoring. That being said, if the bearing doesn't completely collapse when it fails, getting the tranny out becomes a 1st class PITA!

Put your best effort into your very first attempt. If the puller starts to slip, stop and reset it. You dont want to round off the edges of the puller or worse yet, the bearing. I have had two pilots that collapsed on the puller. Took a tungsten carbide bit to cut the outer race out of the crank. (insert eeek smilie here!)

Hth

mark, you're absolutely correct. the pilot bearings i was referring to are the roller type without an inner race. but since the cruiser pilots are a true ball bearing with inner and outer races, you'll never have that problem and they do not need to be lubricated with grease; they're a sealed type bearing if i remember correctly.

 

[65swb45]

mark, you're absolutely correct. the pilot bearings i was referring to are the roller type without an inner race. but since the cruiser pilots are a true ball bearing with inner and outer races, you'll never have that problem and they do not need to be lubricated with grease; they're a sealed type bearing if i remember correctly.

Interestingly enough, the OE bearing is open one side, while most of the aftermarkets are SS, sealed both sides.

 

[Blue60]

Call me dense...

Perhaps this question will close the hole in my knowledge sieve...where exactly is the darn pilot bearing? I checked the clutchkit; clutch release bearing (obvious...it's huge, made by SKF), and the labeled pilot bearing (rather small, make by Nachi) are the only bearings in the package.

Here is the source of my confusion I think....the factor service manual refers to the small bearing at the rear of the engine in the crank as the input shaft bearing and the Haynes manual states the small bearing in the end of the crankshaft is called the "input shaft pilot bearing"

So, the bearing I want to pull is the small one visible at the back of the engine block centered on the crankshaft?

Awaiting guidance and confirmation from "Those who have been there!"

Also, any preferred methods/techniques for doing the rear engine seal?

Cheers,

Dave

 

[spotcruiser]

Yep. Pilot bearing is in the middle of the crank. Machined-down front end of the tranny input shaft fits in this bearing to keep it centered on the crank.

You can just pry the old rear main seal out with a screwdriver. I have f'ed up more new seals than I care to mention trying to install them without the proper tool. I found the best way (short of using the proper seal installation tool) is to lube the seal up, put it in place, and use the flywheel to seat it properly (put the flywheel in proper position, install the bolts, and wrench the bolts down slowly in a cross pattern). Not the easiest method, but I haven't screwed up any $30 seals this way. If you want, you can also make an installation plate, templated from the flywheel, out of square of 1/4" aluminum plate. That would be easier to work with under the truck.

 

[orangefj45]

the elusive transmission input bearing is not visible. it's right behind the "input bearing retainer"; a roundish steel part that is mounted to the front of the trans with 4 bolts and has the input shaft sticking out of it. can post pic if needed.