Part Numbers for Exhaust Manifold Replacement Parts? (1 Viewer)

[Cman]

Hi,

I was looking for some part numbers related to my Driver Side exhaust manifold replacement on a 2000 Land Cruiser. It was lots of fun to take off, but i'll save that for another thread.

1) here are 8 nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the engine. I'm not replacing the bolts because they're in decent shape (unless someone can convince me to replace those as well). They are the same nuts (I think) that hold the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. I need three of those as well.

These are what i'm looking at for all 11:
90080-17187 - Toyota Parts Deal

2) I am also looking for the gasket that connects the exhaust manifold to the LH Front Exhaust pipe.

This is the gasket I found:
90080-43036 - Toyota Parts Deal

Am I right with the parts I chose? Is there a better source (with images/descriptions) for finding these parts?

 

[Rolocado]

Literally just got my parts in this week. Everything crossed out isn't related to the manifold. How much of a b***h was it to get off? I'm not looking forward to it and I'm going to start on the passenger side and plan on disconnecting the steering shaft for the drivers side.

 

[Rolocado]

I get all my parts from Mcgeorge Toyota in VA. Takes a couple days to get to CO but I have yet to find more competitive prices. For the price of the nuts, i just got all new ones... why not?

 

[Cman]

Literally just got my parts in this week. Everything crossed out isn't related to the manifold. How much of a b***h was it to get off? I'm not looking forward to it and I'm going to start on the passenger side and plan on disconnecting the steering shaft for the drivers side.

View attachment 1539736

Perfect, thanks!!! It looks like I have the same parts tagged.

It looks like you have 8 studs? I'm not replacing mine, but there are 8 on each side I think (16 total).

You also need three nuts for each side when connecting to the Front exhaust Pipe. These are the same as the rest, so maybe you can re-use a couple.

You can get everything off if you jack up the engine a few inches (blocks on a jack under the front of the trans will do). I wouldn't do it without an angle joint set, two extenders (12 inches) and a cheater bar. TEKTON 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 in. Drive Impact Universal Joint Set (3-Piece)-4964 - The Home Depot

 

[Rolocado]

Perfect, thanks!!! It looks like I have the same parts tagged.

It looks like you have 8 studs? I'm not replacing mine, but there are 8 on each side I think (16 total).

You also need three nuts for each side when connecting to the Front exhaust Pipe. These are the same as the rest, so maybe you can re-use a couple.

You can get everything off if you jack up the engine a few inches (blocks on a jack under the front of the trans will do). I wouldn't do it without an angle joint set, two extenders (12 inches) and a cheater bar. TEKTON 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 in. Drive Impact Universal Joint Set (3-Piece)-4964 - The Home Depot

Yeah I just got studs in case the bolts came off with them out of the block. Did you run into that at all/ any you had to cut off?

 

[Cman]

Yeah I just got studs in case the bolts came off with them out of the block. Did you run into that at all/ any you had to cut off?

A few came off from manifold to exhaust, but none from the block. At 235K miles, those things don't like to move....

 

[Rolocado]

Ouiii. Throw pics up if you took any of the process

 

[RootMeanSqr]

I just did both sides on my 2000 LC a couple weeks ago. Of all 16 studs in the heads, only 1 came out with the nut. I now have 15 new spares... The three nuts on the exhaust pipe are the same as the 8 on the manifold, so you will need 11 nuts per side (22 total if replacing both sides) same that was mentioned above. Part numbers below.

You will also want/need new studs that thread into the new manifold. They can be seen in the diagram above (3 per side) and are different part number from the ones that thread into the head. Part numbers below.

As far as process, the driver side was truly a 6-7 hour job, so plan for it. I found that a ratcheting box wrench worked best on a few of the forward most nuts (both on driver and passenger sides). Everything else I did with a single universal joint and varying extensions. Definitely jack up the engine for the driver side manifold. Only two bolts to free the engine mount. I jacked the engine right where it meets the bellhousing. Some nuts are easier with engine up, others are easier with it down, so don't try to do all in the up position. And when separating the manifold from exhaust pipe, engine needs to be down, not jacked up (assuming those three studs are still stuck in manifold outlet like mine were). I used an impact w/extension on the 3 exhaust pipe nuts, made that so much easier.

I wasted too much time trying to get the driver side heat shield out by itself. It could probably come out easily if you remove the oil filter, but I did not. I just moved the heat shield out of the way for each nut and then took it out at the same time as the manifold. Same with putting it back in, I put it in at the same time as the manifold.

Passenger side is cake compared to driver, and no jacking necessary. Shouldn't take more than 3 hours.

Remember to soak all nuts with PB Blaster (or penetrating oil of choice) and let it soak as long as you can, overnight if possible. Maybe remove engine undercover and exhaust heat shields night before to get PB Blaster on all 14mm exhaust nuts and soak overnight.

Here was my parts list to replace both sides (also from McGeorge Toyota):
Part Number Part Name Price Qty Total
17105-50121 Exhaust Manifold $223.94 1 $223.94
17104-50121 Exhaust Manifold $222.69 1 $222.69
17173-50021 Manifold Gasket $15.48 2 $30.96
90080-43036 Front Pipe Gasket $8.79 2 $17.58
90080-12008 Exhaust Manifold Stud $3.16 16 $50.56
90080-12007 Exhaust Manifold Stud $5.44 6 $32.64
90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.40 22 $30.80

 

[Rolocado]

For

I just did both sides on my 2000 LC a couple weeks ago. Of all 16 studs in the heads, only 1 came out with the nut. I now have 15 new spares... The three nuts on the exhaust pipe are the same as the 8 on the manifold, so you will need 11 nuts per side (22 total if replacing both sides) same that was mentioned above. Part numbers below.

You will also want/need new studs that thread into the new manifold. They can be seen in the diagram above (3 per side) and are different part number from the ones that thread into the head. Part numbers below.

As far as process, the driver side was truly a 6-7 hour job, so plan for it. I found that a ratcheting box wrench worked best on a few of the forward most nuts (both on driver and passenger sides). Everything else I did with a single universal joint and varying extensions. Definitely jack up the engine for the driver side manifold. Only two bolts to free the engine mount. I jacked the engine right where it meets the bellhousing. Some nuts are easier with engine up, others are easier with it down, so don't try to do all in the up position. And when separating the manifold from exhaust pipe, engine needs to be down, not jacked up (assuming those three studs are still stuck in manifold outlet like mine were). I used an impact w/extension on the 3 exhaust pipe nuts, made that so much easier.

I wasted too much time trying to get the driver side heat shield out by itself. It could probably come out easily if you remove the oil filter, but I did not. I just moved the heat shield out of the way for each nut and then took it out at the same time as the manifold. Same with putting it back in, I put it in at the same time as the manifold.

Passenger side is cake compared to driver, and no jacking necessary. Shouldn't take more than 3 hours.

Remember to soak all nuts with PB Blaster (or penetrating oil of choice) and let it soak as long as you can, overnight if possible. Maybe remove engine undercover and exhaust heat shields night before to get PB Blaster on all 14mm exhaust nuts and soak overnight.

Here was my parts list to replace both sides (also from McGeorge Toyota):
Part Number Part Name Price Qty Total
17105-50121 Exhaust Manifold $223.94 1 $223.94
17104-50121 Exhaust Manifold $222.69 1 $222.69
17173-50021 Manifold Gasket $15.48 2 $30.96
90080-43036 Front Pipe Gasket $8.79 2 $17.58
90080-12008 Exhaust Manifold Stud $3.16 16 $50.56
90080-12007 Exhaust Manifold Stud $5.44 6 $32.64
90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.40 22 $30.80

For both of you does it sound so much better?
And the three studs that thread into the manifold... is that from the manifold to exhaust?

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Yes, sounds so much better! Mine was pretty bad before I replaced it.

And yes, the three studs that thread into the manifold are at the exhaust pipe junction. They are the studs you see in this picture.

 

[Rolocado]

Damn. I only have the 90080-12008. I threaded 3 of them into the new manifold and they fit perfectly.... do you know the difference between the two studs? Is it only length?

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Not sure if lengths were different or not. They seemed to be slightly different in color, so they could be different material. I don't have any extras, otherwise I would take a comparison picture.

Perhaps a local shop or dealer has some?

 

[Spike555]

Is there a web store that offers parts and kits for our trucks?
Land Rover people have Atlantic British, Rovers North and Rovahfarm, all offer individual parts as well as complete kits for repair/maintence jobs.
Wheel bearing kits do a entire axle and have everything you need except the grease, and they sell that too.
Complete hose kits for all cooling system hoses, and their kits come in aftermarket parts or OEM parts so you'd an buy based on your budget.
Is there such a site for us? If there is I cannot find one.
I would think this job would be a perfect candidate for that, everything you need, all gaskets, bolts, studs, manifolds...instead of shopping around and sourcing parts from 4 different vendors hoping you got everything you need.

 

[Rolocado]

Not sure if lengths were different or not. They seemed to be slightly different in color, so they could be different material. I don't have any extras, otherwise I would take a comparison picture.

Perhaps a local shop or dealer has some?

I got the passenger side off. Three studs came out with the nuts and I had a hell of a time with a rounded off nut on the manifold to exhaust side. But its out, it doesn't look cracked, but for piece of mind I'm doing both of them. It's not terribly difficult, you just have to be patient and play with the angles

 

[Rolocado]

And I'm going to have to get the other 6 studs. I have no idea why the part # is different but I wouldn't be able to forget about it if I put the wrong ones in

 

[Rolocado]

Alright. Halfway there. Got the passenger side off and most of the drivers side off. I disconnected the steering shaft and I think it would really make everyones life easier. Pretty much the same access points as passenger side except for the two top left bolts. Still working on those. There is definitely a difference in studs. The bottom one is for manifold to exhaust and top is block to manifold. Don't skimp, get the right ones. Should I worry about all the black crap in the block? I'm just assuming it's normal exhaust soot?

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Excellent! I almost disconnected the steering shaft. Just make sure to get it matched back up perfectly, or you'll have to get an alignment done. That's exactly what a local shop does, pulls shaft, then does an alignment afterwards.

 

[Rolocado]

The rumors are true. The drivers side f$#king sucks. Even with the shaft out of the way, it’s a pain and the ass to move around that and the heat shield. Be sure to have a diverse set of extensions and angles. I didn’t have to jack the engine up though. Im two nuts and a stud short so down to mr T. Can’t wait to fire it up tonight

 

[RootMeanSqr]

The rumors are true.... Im two nuts and a stud short...

 

[Rolocado]

Got it done and buttoned back up. Sounds so much quieter and I haven't even left the garage yet. It is worth noting for people that don't have the FSM, that it states to have the gaskets with the white painted tip in the top right corner of the head. Not sure why but they seem to know what they're doing. Other than that it went fine, just have to take your time. Glad it's done now!

The two PDFs are the FSM pages for a 2000 LC. Cheers