Pamela Landy 2.0 Build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Threads
4
Messages
59
Location
Helena, MT
Just picked up a 1996 LX450 to replace my Tacoma (and our '92 80 "Pamela Landy") we sold last fall. Wanted to start a build thread before I get too far and have too many photos to upload.

Here is a crappy photo of how she sat when I picked her up:
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Pros: almost no rust. One or two tiny bits of surface rust (about a quarter sized) on the axles. Relatively clean interior (not that it matters much). 246k on the odometer, and was always locally owned. It's now three owner. Also, she was cheap!

Cons: front seats are garbage, worm gears on the sliders are shot. Probably will yank them and replace them with something comfy and manually adjustable. Big 'ole valve cover gasket leak. Tons of gunk buildup on the knuckles (don't look like they've been greased or serviced). Takeoff shudder that only happens at low speeds with high torque. 11 year old, dry-rotted tires.


The plan with this truck is to make it capable and comfortable for camping and moderate wheeling and lots of fire-road driving. Ideally we'll keep weight down too. Current plan includes:
  • tires, 35s now, 37s later
  • sliders
  • front and rear lockers (debating between ARB or Harrup)
  • trans case regear
  • regear
  • suspension (probably Dobinsons) Dobinsons Flexi springs front, VT 2.5 rear, yellow shocks all around. Timbren bumps, Delta arms.
  • front and rear bumpers, winch ARB front, Comeup Seal 12.5
  • possibly a GFC RTT GFC RTT
  • drawer platform with dog crate setup for our two puppers Built, need to adjust crate securing setup.
Here's our last rig:

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We loved the Tacoma with the GFC for camping, but it had some limitations (payload, lack of front locker, and too small for the giant dogs) that this build should solve.
 
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Got her home, yanked the rear seats, running boards and did a quick clean up on the interior
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Popped off the valve cover to fix the leaky gasket and found some wonderfully crusty plug tube seals.
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Did a few other things while I was in there - throttle body clean (forgot to do the IAC) and gasket, kick down adjustment, spark plugs, PCV, PCV hoses, coolant hoses except the PHH.
 
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Tires came in. Still need to decide on suspension.

Went with Wildpeaks in 315/75/R16 on stock wheels for now.

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Started trying to track down the takeoff shudder. Installed a CDL switch to help rule things out - shout out to Nick @torfab for the suggestion.

Need to print off a CDL sticker so I don't have two hazard buttons. Found this '97 Rav4 Hazard switch at the junkyard, worked perfectly.
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You sure the bad leak was from the valve cover? It's very common for the distributor O-ring to be puking out a lot of oil in same approximate area.

Sounds like you're planning to build a monster. OK, well hope it's fun!
 
You sure the bad leak was from the valve cover? It's very common for the distributor O-ring to be puking out a lot of oil in same approximate area.

Sounds like you're planning to build a monster. OK, well hope it's fun!
Good thought! It was the valve cover gasket though, it was leaking all the way around the cover and broken in two spots.
 
Back to tracking down the takeoff shudder, listing out what I've done here so I don't forget.

- lock center diff, shudder still happening on takeoff, between 1400-1900 rpms. Ruled out VC as the source of shudder. Did discover that the center diff has been barely (if ever) been used. Lots of relay chatter, was having some issues locking and unlocking. Cycling it a bunch yesterday and today has gotten it working pretty well.
- clunk switching into reverse, makes me think u-joints but on inspection none of them seem to be bad
- check flanges on t-case, no play
- check trans fluid level, maybe a bit low but not egregious
- check for shudder with starting locked in 2nd, still happening
- test rolling over railroad tie again with center diff unlocked and in high. Lots of shudder as it loads up to climb over. When you stop the shudder seems to continue for .5-1 second after. Maybe fuel system related? I can't seem to get it to replicate this when I punch it in neutral or park, or when it's driving past 20ish mph. It does seem to hesitate/get stuck in the 1400-1900 rpm range when I'm starting out slower in conjunction with the shudder, then when it gets to about 2000 it revs out really well.

Plan for today/this weekend:

- pull shafts and replace u-joints, might as well do it anyways. Doubt they've been replaced in the last 10 years.
- drain/fill transmission to get it at the optimal level
- grease driveshafts
- drain and fill t-case?
- if that all fails to solve this then maybe fuel filter?

Trying to avoid just throwing money at the problem trying to find the source. I do know the axles need to be rebuilt so maybe that's a good thing to do before diving into the engine? Not getting any clicking from the birfs yet but I'm assuming the axle seals are bad based on the gunk buildup.
 
Lift it already...you know you are dying to ;)
I mean... you're not wrong.

Looks like I have an answer on what the shudder is, just pulled the front driveshaft and was driving it to see if it was still there. Threw a cylinder 5 misfire code! Hopefully an easy fix.
 
I mean... you're not wrong.

Looks like I have an answer on what the shudder is, just pulled the front driveshaft and was driving it to see if it was still there. Threw a cylinder 5 misfire code! Hopefully an easy fix.
There are 2 known trouble spots for wiring issues on a 1FZ-FE.
The harness that runs next to the EGR pipe is supposed to have a support that keeps it from making contact with the EGR pipe. Over time that support breaks.
Under the glove box the harness for the ECU runs along the bottom steel support. Over time this can chafe and wear through.
 
There are 2 known trouble spots for wiring issues on a 1FZ-FE.
The harness that runs next to the EGR pipe is supposed to have a support that keeps it from making contact with the EGR pipe. Over time that support breaks.
Under the glove box the harness for the ECU runs along the bottom steel support. Over time this can chafe and wear through.
Nailed it. I was poking around last night before it started raining, it looks like the harness by the EGR has gotten a little toasty.
 
Those tires are meaty! Now I’m second-guessing the 285/75/16 tires I just ordered… I figured 33”s would be big enough (and mine is lifted)
 
Wanted to work on the wiring harness, but it's raining and I don't have a garage so I just yanked the old front seats that didn't move and swapped them for a set of cloth Corbeau Sports.

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I'm a little disappointed with the new seats. They seem comfortable enough, but not quite as nice as I expected.

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Also, the 80 series bracket they sell did not even remotely fit for how much it cost. This was the closest of the rear holes. Shimmed all four rear legs out with a few fender washers to get it to sit level after bending the legs to fit. Also had to raise the passenger seat to clear the heater that I don't want to remove.

Oh, and the previous owners cross threaded the sh*** out of three of the rear bolt holes.

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In hindsight, I'd just find a pair of seats I liked from the junkyard and make my own bracket. That's what I get for trying to save time :poop:
 
Spliced 3 wires and insulated two more in the wiring harness, then heat wrapped it and pulled it away from the EGR.

No more CEL, no more signs of a misfire, no more low speed shudder. Fingers crossed that’s all it was!
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