P2420 Code: Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Switching Valve Control Circuit High with LRA Sub tank (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My k&n was CAKED. It definitely needed changing. I requested a relief loop for my breather for install given others experience with the suspected moisture intake ruining the CC. That didn’t happen.

It’s hard for me to rule out what exactly causes this when one of the suspected causes (moisture intake) likely happened to my canister too.

Also, code came back with regular frequency after changing filter.
 
I purchased a K&N vent filter and mesh net a year or two ago with some 5/8 fuel line. Just have not got around to installing. May do that this weekend.
I recall reading a post by @TeCKis300 who modified his vent so I ordered all the parts he used.

Anyone on here install or remove the LRA on their own? Slee did my install. Was just looking at the install directions and doesn't seem too complicated. The initial install is more work as you have to to cut various metal parts, drill, run wiring and hoses. I suspect I have a damaged wire going to the charcoal canister or the canister may need replaced.

It's really strange with the error codes. I've been getting them for a few years off and on. This past winter, I had a lot and the truck wasn't really driven much. No codes lately. I'm going out to CO for Cruisers on the Rockies and LCDC in July-Aug. On previous trips to CO I've had the error codes and reset with OBD Fusion and all was fine.

@TeCKis300 - Did you once drop your LRA and if so any advice?
 
Anyone on here install or remove the LRA on their own? Slee did my install. Was just looking at the install directions and doesn't seem too complicated. The initial install is more work as you have to to cut various metal parts, drill, run wiring and hoses. I suspect I have a damaged wire going to the charcoal canister or the canister may need replaced.


@TeCKis300 - Did you once drop your LRA and if so any advice?

I did my install. It's not bad. As you mentioned, the hardest part was cutting and fitting lines and running the wiring. I'd anticipate a half day project to drop and reinstall. I may relocate the vent hose from behind the wheel well to the engine bay if the CC shows signs of moisture. I did the high loop mod too at install.
 
I did my install. It's not bad. As you mentioned, the hardest part was cutting and fitting lines and running the wiring. I'd anticipate a half day project to drop and reinstall. I may relocate the vent hose from behind the wheel well to the engine bay if the CC shows signs of moisture. I did the high loop mod too at install.
This relocation would definitely make changing any vent filter easier. What other benefit would it add?
 
This relocation would definitely make changing any vent filter easier. What other benefit would it add?

Keep moisture out. Even with the high loop configuration, there is so much spray in that area when driving on wet roads. I'd probably source a small dirtbike or go kart airbox to use in the engine bay. That would minimize both dust in the filter and completely eliminate the chance of moisture getting to the CC.

If this doesn't work and in a year or two I'm replacing the CC again...it's time for some electric valves to isolate the subtank...like what some are doing on 2004+ 100s to run a sub tank
 
What’s the expected life-span of the carbon canister on an unmodified LC?

I’ve been googling this and don’t find anything trustworthy.
 
Also… Slee doesn’t put the little pre-filter back on when they do an LRA install. Does this endanger the CC? Like perhaps that little box can catch some of the moisture.
 
Also… Slee doesn’t put the little pre-filter back on when they do an LRA install. Does this endanger the CC? Like perhaps that little box can catch some of the moisture.

I deleted this too. It's a small charcoal filter that has no impact on function of the main CC, but definitely would act as an additional moisture trap. I'm curious to see what my CC looks like when opened up. Using the link at the start of this thread...they are just over $400 which is not terrible.

As for unmodified lifespan, that is a good question. Before I modded my 200, we did a lot of high elevation camping/towing and boiled the fuel on several occasions. The stock evap system is not a great design. I do plan on adding additional heat barrier to the fuel lines when dropping the subtank.
 
Bought a 12.5 LRA, have not find time to install yet so trying to learn from this before proceeding.

Question; Anybody knows why the factory hookup vent line goes to the filler neck, yet the LRA setup is via a filter vented to air? Seems odd the factory install is to a closed system and the recommended LRA install is not. Maybe I am reading the diagram wrong and the 5/8" line to the filler neck on the factory setup is in fact to atmosphere.

Factory setup per LRA manual
1715380162024.png



LRA tank hookup per LRA manual
1715380233907.png


LRA tank hook up charcoal canister vent line setup per LRA manual
1715380339312.png
 
Bought a 12.5 LRA, have not find time to install yet so trying to learn from this before proceeding.

Question; Anybody knows why the factory hookup vent line goes to the filler neck, yet the LRA setup is via a filter vented to air? Seems odd the factory install is to a closed system and the recommended LRA install is not. Maybe I am reading the diagram wrong and the 5/8" line to the filler neck on the factory setup is in fact to atmosphere.

Factory setup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628866


LRA tank hookup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628867

LRA tank hook up charcoal canister vent line setup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628871

The factory vent is hidden in the factory filler neck. You'll see it when everything is apart.
 
I purchased a K&N vent filter and mesh net a year or two ago with some 5/8 fuel line. Just have not got around to installing. May do that this weekend.
I recall reading a post by @TeCKis300 who modified his vent so I ordered all the parts he used.

Anyone on here install or remove the LRA on their own? Slee did my install. Was just looking at the install directions and doesn't seem too complicated. The initial install is more work as you have to to cut various metal parts, drill, run wiring and hoses. I suspect I have a damaged wire going to the charcoal canister or the canister may need replaced.

It's really strange with the error codes. I've been getting them for a few years off and on. This past winter, I had a lot and the truck wasn't really driven much. No codes lately. I'm going out to CO for Cruisers on the Rockies and LCDC in July-Aug. On previous trips to CO I've had the error codes and reset with OBD Fusion and all was fine.

@TeCKis300 - Did you once drop your LRA and if so any advice?

Here's the slow fill and breather fix thread for those looking

Here's my initial install thread which might offer you a few tip. If you're working by yourself, here's a rope trick to help lower hoist


Bought a 12.5 LRA, have not find time to install yet so trying to learn from this before proceeding.

Question; Anybody knows why the factory hookup vent line goes to the filler neck, yet the LRA setup is via a filter vented to air? Seems odd the factory install is to a closed system and the recommended LRA install is not. Maybe I am reading the diagram wrong and the 5/8" line to the filler neck on the factory setup is in fact to atmosphere.

Factory setup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628866


LRA tank hookup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628867

LRA tank hook up charcoal canister vent line setup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628871

@BadReligion is correct. Here's pictures in this post that will better show that detail
 
Bought a 12.5 LRA, have not find time to install yet so trying to learn from this before proceeding.

Question; Anybody knows why the factory hookup vent line goes to the filler neck, yet the LRA setup is via a filter vented to air? Seems odd the factory install is to a closed system and the recommended LRA install is not. Maybe I am reading the diagram wrong and the 5/8" line to the filler neck on the factory setup is in fact to atmosphere.

Factory setup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628866


LRA tank hookup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628867

LRA tank hook up charcoal canister vent line setup per LRA manual
View attachment 3628871
These are good questions. I too have been wondering why LRA didn’t leave that vent line in the filler neck where it couldn’t get fouled with dust.
 
Look what arrived in the mail today!!
Hopefully I can get it installed next week.

And then more hopefully… it cures my codes!

IMG_0466.jpeg
 
Look what arrived in the mail today!!
Hopefully I can get it installed next week.

And then more hopefully… it cures my codes!

View attachment 3628943
I suggest you weight the new CC and the old CC and post your figures. I have weights on two suspected fouled CCs, but never got one on a new one...because I bought a like-year CC for a Camry, which is ~$100 instead of the $300-$500 for the LC-specific one. With an LRA tank, even modded to perfection the way it's described above, I think the CC just becomes much more vulnerable. I consider the CC a maintenance item, and the cheap acquisition cost takes the sting out.

Also important: it could very well be that the CC harness that runs over the top of the LRA has gotten some friction love, and one of those fine wires has a very small crack. Even a relatively small insult to those wires will cause issues. I cut the offending section, spliced with longer section of CAT5, wrapped like the devil, and rerouted for success.

Best maintenance practice: fill tank only to within two gallons of full. Don't trust the auto-stop...on either main or LRA tanks.
 
I suggest you weight the new CC and the old CC and post your figures. I have weights on two suspected fouled CCs, but never got one on a new one...because I bought a like-year CC for a Camry, which is ~$100 instead of the $300-$500 for the LC-specific one. With an LRA tank, even modded to perfection the way it's described above, I think the CC just becomes much more vulnerable. I consider the CC a maintenance item, and the cheap acquisition cost takes the sting out.

Also important: it could very well be that the CC harness that runs over the top of the LRA has gotten some friction love, and one of those fine wires has a very small crack. Even a relatively small insult to those wires will cause issues. I cut the offending section, spliced with longer section of CAT5, wrapped like the devil, and rerouted for success.

Best maintenance practice: fill tank only to within two gallons of full. Don't trust the auto-stop...on either main or LRA tanks.
I just weighed the new, unused charcoal canister and it’s 5lbs and 9ounces.

I’ll weigh the old one when I get them swapped.
 
I bought a like-year CC for a Camry, which is ~$100 instead of the $300-$500 for the LC-specific one.

This is awesome that you figured that out. I assume the interfaces and plugs are identical? Any differences in size and form factor?
 
I just weighed the new, unused charcoal canister and it’s 5lbs and 9ounces.

I’ll weigh the old one when I get them swapped.
What makes this tricky is ensuring that the extra components attached to the CC are the same.

My result (with limited view of attachments)

1715794117185.png
 
This is awesome that you figured that out. I assume the interfaces and plugs are identical? Any differences in size and form factor?
The canister is identical on the business side (hose connections, plugs, etc.) but ~1.5-2.5 inches shorter, and probably a .25-.5 inch thicker. One of my thoughts was to mate the front end of the new one to the back end of the old one--for volume--and refill with MOAR charcoal. I could not find an appropriate spot at which both CCs were the same size on the long axis. I should add: during the early days of my adventures in CC, I modified the CC bracket to ensure the canister was up as high as possible; my LRA showed clear signs of persistent friction from the original CC. The CC lift and harness extension are two needful mods, IMO.
 
I have the 12 gal LRA. In the isntructions, mione indicated to fill with great caution and never Top Off the LRA. At first I didn’t read it, topped off, got the codes for a few days. Called installer, local Dallas, and he said drain it down. Run for a week, let fuel in canister evaporate refill but don’t overfill and then see if it still happens after clearing with OBD II. No issues since, same canister from factory never changed
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom