P225/75R15....

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That is the stock tire size from factory....

Exactly what size tire is that? 30"?

I'm currently running LT237/75R15 (27.5" measured) down graded from
31" tires... (too slow at the time:frown:)

I'm prepping to start buying new tires and need to figure out a long term solution.

I'm planning a 2" body lift (hate them over suspension lifts but need the clearance to fit our feet on the slider to climb in) And will give a better look.

Also, Re gearing is out for now but plan to get headers in a year or so. CAr is bone stock... I know that headers will make a difference and allow a larger tire at least one size up....

Been looking at the BFG Tk AT's and been reading their charts and trying to compare...
Any and all feedback is appreciated.

Tnx
 
my 85 with blown springs and little motor work (22r) ran 33's down the hiway no problem and would only rub during big flex and hit the floor/fire-wall...which you can fix with a hammer...
 
29" or so. Hint, hint, most tire makers have the specs for their tires on the web. Just take that tire size and see how big they say their tires are.

Let me see, bigger headers will move the strongest power band to higher RPMs. Bigger tires will lower the RPMs from the engine for a given gear and speed. Can you see what doesn't work here? Go for the gearing. Torque delivered to the rear wheels is what matters for driveability. You will get much more torque delivered to the rear wheels by changing the gearing to near optimal for tire size than anything you can do to that engine other than turboing it, or swapping in a bigger engine.

Before you touch your engine, read this: 4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: 22R/RE: Simple power tips

There are real big headachs to doing a body lift more than 1/2" to 1". Yeah, the body lift parts don't cost that much, but now the bumper to body doesn't line up, and lets not forget the steering. You'll have to extend the steering shaft that goes up to the steering wheel. I think most of the rest of the stuff is easy. Unless you go larger than 32" tires I don't see it as being needed. Even if you do want larger than 32" tires there are other routes like fenders with oversized wheel wells. Also there are basic issues with how tight you can turn large tires due to the frame. I'd lower the sliders an inch or so before lifting the body. This also gets them away from the sheetmetal so if you do bend them they aren't pushing into the sheetmetal.
 
Don't forget the linkage issues for shifters
the fan shroud will need modified
The brake & fuel lines will need extended
Radiator hoses will need changed
The list can go on
 
That is the stock tire size from factory....

225/75x15... Says it in the door jam.

Unless it's an AT, or came factory with 31's... Which it will say... On the door jam...



Exactly what size tire is that? 30"?


28"

I'm currently running LT237/75R15 (27.5" measured) down graded from
31" tires... (too slow at the time:frown:)

No manufacturer's claim is what a tire really measures.

Not to mention what width the rim is has an effect.




I'm prepping to start buying new tires and need to figure out a long term solution.

I'm planning a 2" body lift (hate them over suspension lifts but need the clearance to fit our feet on the slider to climb in) And will give a better look.

If you do a BL, a great way to compliment it is a drivetrain lift.

See 4Crawler and BudBuilt.

There are places not to spend money on a IFS, and IMO unless you're going for a $2,000 PLUS long travel, a 4" run of the mill "Lower-to-lift" for IFS is one of them.

The stock IFS is actually ubber good. It's just hard to modify... Like wanting 250 horsepower out of a 2.4L motor... You can do it, but it has or makes limitations.


Also, Re gearing is out for now but plan to get headers in a year or so. CAr is bone stock... I know that headers will make a difference and allow a larger tire at least one size up....

Ok... Whatever you think but prolly 90+ % of Toyota owners now are 1" above stock and they don't all have headers... :meh:

225's = 28" = 4:11's

235's = 29" = 4:01 gears...

30, 31, 32... etc, etc.


Been looking at the BFG Tk AT's and been reading their charts and trying to compare...
Any and all feedback is appreciated.

Tnx

See above.

If you want great results and now, I recommend 33/10.50's on 15" aluminum wheels... 33's will fit stock (maybe slightly modified) but there's also a BJ spacer...

They run crazy 34" and up by 11.50 to 9" wide "Simex" tires in other country's and there are just way too many vids to post of trucks walking through stuff Heavy Chevy's with 35's won't go through...

A wide contact patch is HIGHLY over rated...


Surf Youtube for things like "Hilux" or "Hilux off road" or "Hilux 4x4"


EDIT: And "Surf" The Toyota "4Runner" in Australia.
 
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look i have an 84 4runner, with an 86 22re, an 87 trans an 86 transfer, and rear stock 4:11 and am running 285/75 16 , i believe these are equivalent to 33" from bfg's site. and when i go any where i have my gps, and at 65 on my stock speed'o i am going about 78, so throw some 33 on that biotch put your garmin in it and go for a ride!
 
A 1" body lift is easy and makes it sooo much easier to properly weld on sliders. Brake and clutch lines reach no problem. No electrical problems. Gas fill & steering shaft are fine. Take the little half moon plastic piece off the bottom of the shroud and the fan is fine, or if you really care just re-drill the 4 holes in the radiator.

Or get some 1/2" plate and make some blocks to lift the engine back up an inch, and call Bud and get a lifted crossmember, shifters are all set then too.

4.88's with 33's are a perfect setup, you're right back to factory, speedo is dead on.
 
Not to mention what width the rim is has an effect.
ok you had a lot to say so it took me awhile to delete it what or how does the rim size effect the height of the tire?

The wider the rim, the more the bead will physically separate lowering the over all outer diameter.


Hilux...
so 33 with the stock SR5 rims hit the spot?

What aRE WE LOOKING AT AS far as gears and costs go?

I don't understand "hit the spot"?

You mean with power? No, you don't get more power out of a Toyota by going with HIGHER gears.

Or do you mean hit the spot with your needs?

Gears? Depends... You gonna buy the infamous stock 4:88's?

Pay $omebody el$ to $et them up?

Or DIY? http://www.gearinstalls.com/

thanks, klf why do i keep hearing 4.88's for 35" tires, this is the only place i see 4.88"s for 33" tires?

Because, not ALL Toyota's came with 4cyl's 5 speeds and factory 4:11's.

Not ALL, but most.

It's just a habit when ppl assume it is a 4cyl/5sp.

Rule of thumb is:

31's = 4:30/4:56

33's = 4:88's

35's = 5:29's

And one more thing... There is NO law about what gear to use, no one is forcing you use gear x.

It's a free country. You can use ANY gear you want. Under gear it, or over-gear it. It's your truck use whatever you want.
 
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i can kind of understand where you are coming from but like you would have to put a really skinny tire on a really wide rim, but you will not get far doing that! not to be ignorant or mean but if you blow that sid wall out to fit that rim that is exactly what you are going to do when you drive it.
 
look i have an 84 4runner, with an 86 22re, an 87 trans an 86 transfer, and rear stock 4:11 and am running 285/75 16 , i believe these are equivalent to 33" from bfg's site. and when i go any where i have my gps, and at 65 on my stock speed'o i am going about 78, so throw some 33 on that biotch put your garmin in it and go for a ride!

:cool: I take it you go anywhere that is down hill?


Hilux,
I meant that they would be a good size that would last at least a year or two and survive body lift and suspension lift? In other words, I'm not going to regret and want to go bigger....


That looks like what I will need...
In the mean time, I'm slapping on the 31 from the Cruiser for now to see how slow it can go.....
 
Hilux,
I meant that they would be a good size that would last at least a year or two and survive body lift and suspension lift? In other words, I'm not going to regret and want to go bigger....



Prolly... There is only one way to get axle clearance, Clarence...

And that's with a larder O.D tire...

33's will fit stock, and the 10.50's are lighter and require somewhat less torque to turn over.

And that saves DT and engine stress.

Plus, IMO unless you're in mud where floatation is needed, you don't need the 8 more inches in contact the 12.50's provide.

And think about this.

Which tire will require less torque to break traction 1st?

One with 10" of contact, or 12"?

IMO, the 10" will possibly saving a broken axle shaft.

It is a compact truck after all... Save the big fatty's for the Heavy Chevy's and or mud duty.
 
My dilemma,
I've got fj60 with 31's 10.5 on OEM rims 3 tires match + one odd ball (no spare & parked for now)
fj80 with 31's 10.5 on OEM rims 3 old tires that will be on the 80 when sold, and one BF Goodrich AT's TK with the snow flake on it only like 3k miles (spare does not match and will sell it)
4runner with 28's 8" on OEM rims with all 4 matching and will need new ones soon (spare does not match)

Need to start buying tires... Unfortunately I'm looking for "skinny's" to put on my runner. What are considered "Skinny's" in the MUD world?

I've looked at
Parnelli Jone Dirt Grip All-Terrain Tire Review
but they are $$ and don't come in a "skinny" size.

and
Dick Cepek Radial F-C-II Tire Reviews

I might just have to stick to BF's???? I can buy 4 more and get a complete set and throw them on the 60. But I really wanted to get 33's for it... :frown:
31's with 10.5 wide is too wide for my runner. So.... Will i just have to leave it on the 80 when it gets sold? :frown:

But the best fit for what I'm looking for is
BF' AT TK's
33x9.50R15/C with a 32.7" diameter...

I'm trying to future proof my purchase if possible.

Right now the speedometer (on the 4runner) is on the dot (gps confirmed)
4th gear
55mph @ 2800 rpm's
65mph @ (will get back to you on that one)

5th gear
55mph @ 2400 rpm's
65mph @ 2800 rpm's



Tires on 4runner right now. Tire is 8" wide and 28" in diameter and they will need to be changed pretty soon...
they are old and falling apart. There are pieces missing from the side walls :eek:


Moderator: let me know if this needs a new thread or if it can stay here.

:cheers:
 
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:cool: I take it you go anywhere that is down hill?


Hilux,
I meant that they would be a good size that would last at least a year or two and survive body lift and suspension lift? In other words, I'm not going to regret and want to go bigger....


That looks like what I will need...
In the mean time, I'm slapping on the 31 from the Cruiser for now to see how slow it can go.....

i live in WV, actually the lower Shenandoah valley any where i go is up hill then down hill but in general it is all up, i live real close to the lowest point in WV
 
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