over heating. im out of ideas

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WristPin

WristPin

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Joined
Sep 14, 2005
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Location
The NW, Cascade Mountian Range
86 22RE

my truck has been over heating. the factory gauge was reading incorrectly, so i put a new sender in it.
same.

so i put a AFTMKT mechanical sender and gauge in it.

currently reads 195-220°F but is reading in the 220° range more often than not

so heres my new parts list:

OEM waterpump about 5 months ago (replaced cause it was leaking, before over heating problem)

new thermostat. ( i actually removed it, now i dont have it installed, no change)

new head gasket. had the head milled and pressure/vacuum tested

new spark plugs

brand spanking new coolant WITH distilled water.

brand new radiator cap.

timing is at 5° (incase your wondering how i get the ° push and hold 'alt' and type 0176 :D )

now i checked for flow. it flows good.
but just incase somthin was clogged in there, i took the rad. out and flushed the s*** out of it. backwards, forwards, banged it on the ground to knock loose any debris flushed it some more.

i checked my plugs just now see if there was any coolant deposits. -none.

i pressure tested it, holds at 15 pounds.

vacuum tested it, no abnormal readings.

its not leaking coolant inside or out side the engine. like wise, it is not consuming more than what i originally filled in the resivoir.

no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant.

now the only thing i havent done is changed out the mechanical fan.
it feels like it is pulling enuff air. but i will swap out the one off my 89.
just for s***s and giggles.

all i have to say now, is im going to sit down and enjoy this nice hot, thick, juicy medium-rare new york steak. covered in BBQ sause with mashed taters smothered in gravy. mmmmmmmmm-mmmmm!

oh that and

W.T.F.?
 
Hey, did you check the viscous fan clutch? Does it spin freely when engine hot? I had a celica (22R) do this to me, had me chasing all kinds of stuff. Figured it out in the end and repaced it with a flex fan. Problem solved. Let us know how you make out.
 
idk why its over heating but have you tried an electric fan? thats what i have on mine. it also gives you a few more horsepower.
 
That's probably a better idea, that you have nick. You can get a universal sensor that just pokes through the rad fins to control when it runs. Did this setup on my supra..forgot about that!
 
why thank you. my flex-a-lite fan keeps my truck stupid cold.
 
i had this happen in my 85 2wd with the 22r. I thought the radiator was ok but after I got sick of dicking around with the rest of the cooling system I just got a new one ($45) and it works awesome now.
 
I'd go with a new radiator or recore the one you have. But you'd get no arguments from me if you slapped an electric fan on there too. Fxxxer.
 
No need for a whole new fan. Go to the hobby store, buy some 6k silicone fluid (used in r/c car diffs) and drain and refill the fan clutch. One 40ml bottle for around $7 is all it takes. The 22r sereis engine fan clutchs take 25ml on a refill.

If that doesn't do the trick, then its the radiator.

BTW, the new fan clutch silicon will make a big difference in how well your a/c works. I'd do it just for that!
 
thanks guys.

i just took off the fan off my 89. waiting for the 86 to cool down.

Bear i think if this fixes it, i will refill the clutch that is currently giving me a problem, and re use it on my 89

cruiser88 it stays constant on flat land around 215. and wil climb rapidly up a hill.

by the time i crest, its already hittin the 220°F mark

i got a infrared thermometer today.
i hooked up the mechanical sender into the top of the thermostat housing. (took out the temp switch of the A/C )
and as i pulled into the drive way, ( i have to climb a hill on the way home)
the gauge said 225°+/-
i got the meter right on the metal where the gauge is at and it read 210-215°

so even tho its an improvment over the factory gauge, its still not completly accurate



if this dont work, i'll swap radiators out of the 89 too.
 
swapped out fan. no change.

using the infrared thermometer at the upper hose right at the inlet is 178
at the lower hose right at the outlet is 164. should be removing more than 14° i think.
if any one has the same thermomter, could you check yours and see what the difference in heat is please?

now these readings cant be 100% correct, cause the hose is in the way and such.

with that said, i probed around the tstat for the highest reading and got 210.

and my gauge is reading a hair under 220.
i dont like that gauge its so vauge. has a dash with 190 a space, a dash, a space and a dash with 220

not very specific.

well i think i am going to have the radiator recored or acid cleaned.
this sucks.
 
WristPin said:
swapped out fan. no change.

using the infrared thermometer at rhe upper hose is 178
at the lower hose is 164.

now these readings cant be 100% correct, cause the hose is in the way and such.

with that said, i probed around the tstat for the highest reading and got 210.

and my gauge is reading a hair under 220.
i dont like that gauge its so vauge. has a dash with 190 a space, a dash, a space and a dash with 220

not very specific.

well i think i am going to have the radiator recored or acid cleaned.
this sucks.
Click to expand...
i spents HOURS cleaning my last rad.:frown:no go did not help
 
You could try muriatic (sp?) acid, It eats anything that's not metal. Get a couple rubber plugs (the kind that expand with the thing in the middle) and pour some in and shake it around... gently!!! :D I'm with Yooper though.... if this doesn't work, or you hurt yourself, it was DieselDog's idea..... :D
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
You could try muriatic (sp?) acid, It eats anything that's not metal. Get a couple rubber plugs (the kind that expand with the thing in the middle) and pour some in and shake it around... gently!!! :D I'm with Yooper though.... if this doesn't work, or you hurt yourself, it was DieselDog's idea..... :D
Click to expand...
thats a good idea.
i found some at the local hardware store. they want 5 gucks agallon. good enuff. will try that tomorrow.

cruiser88 did you try this idea?
 
now the head and block have coolant passages that run between the cylinders. say they are maybe 10mm wide. the headgasket almost covers those holes completly. there might be 1-2mm hole left for the coolant to go thru.
i got a gasket from NAPA. they recently switched from Victor reinz to Fel-Pro.

i wonder if the OEM gasket has the same dimentions.

maybe the felpro gasket is not up the same spec as OEM.

and that may be restricting the flow? :confused:
 
Nope, suppose to be small holes in the gasket. Kinda odd since the passages on both the head and block are much larger.

We've tried the aicd thing, not much help. A radiator shop should rod it out for you for not to much. I still don't think swaping fans showed anything. BOTH clutches mostly likey have bad fluid.
 
Last edited:
Bear80 said:
Nope, suppose to be small holes in the gasket. Kinda odd since the passages on both the head and block are much larger.

We've tried the aicd thing, not much help. A radiator shop should rod it out for you for not to much. I still don't think swaping fans showed anything. BOTH clutches are mostly likey have bad fluid.
Click to expand...

im gonna call a rad shop if i can afford it ill do it.

i nevert had a overheating problem with the 89.

and the fans spins good and easy when hot.

thick and slow when cold.

no sign of leaks, dosent stink like its burned up
 
Well hopefuly having the radiator roded out solves the issues. I feel your pain trying to chase down such a problem, time, money and still nothing.

As for the clutch, there is no way to tell if the fluid is bad except by measuring air flow. I don't know a true techical way to measure it. For the small amount of time and cost to put new fluid in, I would do it just for piece of mind. Not to mention that fluid is either 3000 or 4000 cst. 6000 cst seems to be a better weight except for some of the hotter areas such as AZ. After 10yrs the silicon fluid has been sheard to the point that its viscosity is no where near what it was or should be to operate within specs.
 
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